Skin Care and Facial Services
Skin science
The epidermis is the outer, protective layer; the dermis holds collagen, elastin, capillaries, and nerve endings; the subcutaneous layer provides fat and insulation. Sebaceous glands produce sebum and sudoriferous glands produce sweat. The acid mantle sits near pH 5.5, which is why alkaline cleansers leave skin tight and why toners restore pH. Fitzpatrick types I to VI predict sun response and treatment tolerance.
The facial
Consult and analyze (skin type, oiliness, hydration, sensitivity, lesions), then cleanse, exfoliate, steam if appropriate, extract with care, massage, apply a mask matched to the skin, and finish with moisturizer and sun protection. Massage manipulations - effleurage, petrissage, tapotement, vibration, friction - are performed in a direction that supports drainage and never over inflamed tissue.
Disorders and contraindications
Comedones (open blackheads, closed whiteheads), papules, pustules, and cysts are acne conditions; milia are small keratin cysts. Do not treat or diagnose disease: refer suspicious moles, undiagnosed rashes, cold sores, conjunctivitis, and severe cystic acne. Waxing and chemical exfoliation are contraindicated on clients using isotretinoin or prescription retinoids and on recently peeled, sunburned, or irritated skin.
Sanitation specifics
Use single-use applicators, spatulas, and wax sticks; never double-dip; disinfect bowls, brushes, and equipment; wash hands before and after; keep products covered.
Traps
Confusing a papule with a pustule; extracting inflamed pustules and spreading bacteria; waxing a client who is on retinoids; calling the dermis the protective outer layer.
Rule of thumb
Patch test wax 24 hours before. When a lesion is inflamed, bleeding, changing, or painful, stop the service and refer - the safest facial never crosses into medical treatment.