Artificial Nails and Nail Enhancements
Enhancement types and how they are built
Know the main categories: acrylic (liquid monomer plus polymer powder), UV/LED-cured gel, dip powder systems, and nail wraps (silk, fiberglass, linen). Acrylic and gel overlays can be applied over a nail tip, a sculpting form, or the natural nail. Each system has its own preparation, cure, and removal method, and products from different systems should not be mixed.
Structure and balance
The strength of any enhancement sits at the apex, located over the stress zone at the free-edge end of the nail bed. A properly built enhancement is thin at the cuticle, thicker at the apex, and thin again at the free edge. Overfiling the natural nail plate, especially the stress zone, thins it and leads to lifting, breakage, and client sensitivity.
Mix ratio and adhesion
For acrylic, the bead should hold its shape without free liquid running off; a ratio that is too wet produces excessive shrinkage and lifting, while a dry, crumbly bead will not adhere. Preparation (light buffing of the shine, proper dehydration, correct primer or bonder) matters more than the brand used. Gels must be cured for the lamp's full rated time, and the lamp must be the correct type for the product.
Removal and maintenance
Soak off in the solvent intended for the system, then gently push away softened product; do not pry, nip, or force product off the nail plate. Clients return for a rebalance every two to three weeks.
Traps
Distractors often suggest a wetter bead for easier spreading, prying off gel instead of soaking, using a drill aggressively on the natural nail, or using one lamp for every gel product.
Rule of thumb
Thin at the cuticle, apex over the stress zone, thin at the free edge.