ASE A6 study materials
ASE A6 study resources

AGM Battery "Fails" the Tester - Replace or Recharge?

ASE A6 · Put your knowledge to work in context.

All case studies

AGM Battery "Fails" the Tester - Replace or Recharge?

A 2017 sedan with a 70 Ah, 760 CCA AGM battery comes in for a no-start after sitting two days. The customer drives 6 km each way to work. The battery is four years old. After 12 hours of rest at 70 degrees F, open-circuit voltage is 12.35 V. A conductance tester reports "Replace - 340 CCA." You charge the battery at 10 A for five hours; it then rests at 12.62 V and tests at 610 CCA. Charging system output is 14.1 V at idle with the battery at roughly 60 percent state of charge. Key-off draw measures 28 mA. There are no DTCs. The vehicle has a battery management system with a current sensor on the negative cable.

1. Should the battery be replaced based on the first test result? Explain your reasoning with the numbers given.

Read the worked answer

No - the first test was invalid.

  • 12.35 V open-circuit at 70 F is roughly 50-60 percent state of charge, not a capacity measurement.
  • Conductance testers must be used on a battery at or near full charge. Below about 12.4 V (roughly 75 percent SOC) the reported CCA tracks state of charge, not true capacity. The 340 CCA figure is a measurement of a discharged battery.
  • After charging, the battery produced 610 of 760 CCA, or about 80 percent of rating, which is generally above the usual replacement threshold (many manufacturers use roughly 70 percent of rating at 70 F).

Conclusion: the battery is serviceable right now, but at four years old with a short-trip duty cycle it is marginal. Document the numbers, tell the customer it is on borrowed time, and address the undercharging cause.

2. A 28 mA key-off draw cannot drain the battery in two days. Explain what actually drained it.

Read the worked answer

Chronic undercharging, not a parasitic draw.

  • 28 mA x 48 h = about 1.3 Ah - negligible.
  • A 6 km trip may not replace the energy used to crank and run accessories. The alternator has to replace cranking energy plus whatever the blower, rear defroster, seat heat, and lights consume, and on a smart-charging system the regulator deliberately holds voltage low (sometimes 12.5-13.5 V) to leave headroom for regenerative charging.
  • Result: the battery walks downhill a little each week until it will not crank after a two-day sit.

Advice to the customer: periodic overnight charging with an AGM-compatible charger, or a longer highway drive, and re-check state of charge at the next service. Note that 14.1 V at idle is a normal commanded value for a system that knows the battery is at 60 percent - it is not evidence of a failing alternator.

3. If the battery is replaced anyway, what must be done, and how would you verify the repair?

Read the worked answer

Installation requirements:

  1. Use the correct AGM group size and CCA rating - do not substitute a flooded battery on a vehicle with AGM charge strategy.
  2. Charge the new battery to full before installation.
  3. Register the new battery / reset the BMS with the scan tool, and reset battery statistics. Skipping this causes the charging system to keep using the old battery's aging model and undercharge the new one.
  4. Do not bypass or relocate the negative-cable current sensor; torque the cable per spec.

Verification:

  • After registration, run the engine and confirm charging voltage rises into the normal range for the new battery's state of charge (commonly above 13.5 V shortly after start).
  • Re-check key-off draw to confirm it stays low after sleep.
  • Confirm no battery/charging DTCs return after a road test with electrical loads cycled.