Hair and Scalp Analysis, Shampooing, and Treatments
Analyze before you wet the hair
A hair analysis records texture (fine, medium, coarse), density, porosity (how readily hair absorbs and holds moisture), elasticity (stretch and return), and growth pattern. Porosity is tested by sliding a strand between the fingers - rough, resistant feel suggests high porosity, slick and repelling suggests low. Elasticity is tested by stretching a wet strand; hair that snaps rather than returning is fragile and should not receive a strong chemical service. Hair structure is cuticle (protective outer layer), cortex (bulk, pigment, strength), and medulla (innermost, absent in fine hair). Growth cycles are anagen (growth), catagen (transition), and telogen (resting/shedding).
Scalp assessment
The scalp is classified as normal, oily, or dry, and may show dandruff (pityriasis), seborrheic dermatitis, or fungal infection. Barbers recognize and describe; we do not diagnose or treat disease. Redness, swelling, pus, ringworm-like patches, or unidentified lumps mean stop and refer the client to a physician, and any contagious condition means no service.
Shampooing and treatments
Brush or comb the hair before shampooing to loosen debris and reduce tangling, then use warm - not hot - water. Manipulations include effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), and tapotement (tapping); all should be rhythmic and comfortable. Shampoo selection matches the scalp: clarifying for buildup, balancing for normal, medicated for dandruff. Conditioner closes the cuticle and restores pH after alkaline shampoo; protein treatments rebuild, moisture treatments hydrate - do not confuse the two.
Traps
Questions conflate dandruff with a communicable fungal infection, or imply a barber may treat scalp disease. Another trap: hot water and aggressive towel drying on wet hair, which is at its most fragile.
Rule of thumb
If it is red, raised, oozing, or spreading - do not shampoo it, do not massage it, refer it out.