Shaving, Beard and Facial Hair Design
Preparation and skin safety
A professional shave begins with consultation and skin analysis. Look for moles, acne, eczema, cold sores, recent sunburn, or ingrown hairs; do not shave over inflamed, broken, or infected skin. Wash hands, drape the client, and soften the beard with a hot towel and lather. Hold the razor at roughly a 30-degree angle and stretch the skin taut opposite the stroke. Shave with the grain on the first pass; across or against the grain only if the skin tolerates it and the client wants a closer shave. Use short, controlled strokes and rinse the blade often.
Beard and facial-hair design
Establish symmetry by measuring from the center of the face and from the ear to the jaw. Define the cheek line naturally by following the densest growth rather than carving a line too high. The neckline should sit above the Adam's apple, roughly one finger width, and follow the natural transition from jaw to neck; going lower creates a heavy, unfinished look. Outline the mustache just above the lip line and keep the upper lip clear if the client requests it. Finish with a cool towel, toner, and moisturizer or aftershave balm.
Traps
The exam loves 'shave against the grain first for the closest shave,' which is false for most clients. Also watch for 'shave over a mole' and 'reuse a disposable razor.' A straight razor must be disinfected like any other implement, and blades are changed or sharpened per protocol. Never apply pressure that digs the blade.
Rule of thumb
First pass with the grain, light pressure, taut skin, 30-degree blade angle. If the skin reddens or lifts, stop.
Worked example: A client has a raised mole on the jaw. Shave around it with the razor edge, do not go over it, and trim surrounding hair with scissors or a trimmer.