Hair and Scalp Care, Styling and Hair Additions
Hair and Scalp Care
Hair and scalp anatomy
The hair shaft has a cuticle (protective outer scales), cortex (strength, pigment, moisture), and medulla (central core, not always present). Growth cycles are anagen (growth), catagen (transition), and telogen (rest and shed). Shedding 50–100 hairs daily is normal. Scalp types include normal, dry, oily, and combination; common conditions include dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis. Hairstylists analyze and recommend, but do not diagnose or treat medical conditions - refer.
Shampoo and treatment
Shampoo surfactants lift oil and debris; pH and formulation determine gentleness. Clarifying shampoo removes buildup but can strip color; moisturizing shampoo and conditioner restore lipids. Protein treatments fill gaps in porous hair; moisture treatments hydrate. Overuse of protein makes hair brittle; too much moisture can make it limp. Water temperature should be comfortable, not hot. Massage increases circulation, but avoid irritated or broken skin.
Analysis and traps
Check porosity (how quickly hair absorbs and releases moisture), elasticity (stretch and return), and density. Traps: calling a scalp condition “dandruff” when it may be dermatitis; recommending a strong treatment on broken skin; shampooing a fresh relaxer too soon; assuming all oily scalps need the same shampoo; skipping a patch test for a scalp product.
Worked example: hair feels rough, tangles when wet, and dries quickly. That suggests high porosity. Recommend a gentle cleanser, a protein-moisture balance, and lower heat - not a heavy clarifying shampoo, which would worsen dryness.
Rule of thumb: cleanse the scalp, condition the ends, and refer anything red, broken, swollen, or painful.
Styling and Hair Additions
Principles of styling
Styling is about shape, balance, and control. Blow-drying uses heat, tension, and airflow; thermal tools use heat to temporarily reshape hydrogen bonds, which reset as hair cools. Always use heat protectant and match tool temperature to hair condition. Roller sets, pin curls, and finger waves create volume and direction; the set is only as good as the sectioning and tension. Finishing products such as mousse, gel, serum, and hairspray support the shape without weighing it down.
Hair additions
Extensions, wigs, and hairpieces add length, volume, or color. Methods include clip-in, tape-in, bonded/fusion, and sew-in. Match shade, texture, and density; check for adhesive allergy; ensure the client can maintain and remove them safely. Tension is the main risk: too tight causes traction alopecia and headaches. Removal must use the correct solvent or method, and the natural hair and scalp must be cleaned and inspected.
Traps
Questions confuse thermal protection with permanent change; heat styling is temporary. Do not use high heat on lightened or fragile hair. Over-direction and weak tension cause dropped curls. A wig that is too tight or a braid that pulls can damage the hairline. Never remove bonded extensions by pulling.
Worked example: a client wants long, voluminous curls for an event. Set hair on rollers with a setting lotion, dry fully, brush out, then finish with a light serum. If the hair is fine, lower heat and use smaller sections to prevent limpness.
Rule of thumb: section cleanly, keep tension even, and let hair cool completely before brushing out a set.