Make-Up: Colour Theory, Face Correction and Hygiene
The Make-Up domain tests colour theory, foundation matching, corrective and contouring technique, face and eye shapes, and the hygiene standards that protect both client and artist. Questions are often scenario-based: given a client's undertone, redness or eye shape, what do you apply, where, and why?
Undertone and colour correction
- Undertone is warm (yellow/golden), cool (pink/blue) or neutral - distinct from surface colour.
- Complementary colours neutralise: green cancels redness, peach/orange cancels blue-grey, lilac lifts sallow yellow.
- Apply corrector in thin layers only where needed, then foundation over it; heavy corrector looks grey under camera light.
- Match foundation to the jawline and neck in natural daylight, and allow it to dry down before judging.
Face shapes and correction
- Highlight advances, contour recedes - this single rule answers most questions.
- Round: contour temples and jaw, blush vertically. Oblong: shade forehead and chin, blush horizontally. Heart: shade temples, highlight chin. Square: soften the corners. Diamond: highlight forehead and chin, shade cheekbones.
Eyes and brows
- Identify hooded, deep-set, protruding, downturned, monolid, close-set and wide-set eyes, then adjust placement - not the whole look.
- Brow mapping uses three points: start at the inner corner, arch over the outer iris, end at the outer corner aligned with the nostril.
Worked example
A client with a cool undertone and diffuse redness across the cheeks wants a natural daytime look. Reasoning: cool skin plus redness needs a green corrector used sparingly, then a cool-toned foundation matched at the jawline. A warm or yellow foundation would emphasise the pink. Correct action: sheer corrector on the cheeks only, foundation buffed outward, translucent powder on the T-zone, and avoid heavy contouring that would look harsh in daylight.
Traps that cost marks
- Using green corrector over the whole face instead of targeted areas.
- Matching foundation on the hand or under tungsten light.
- Sharing mascara or double-dipping into cream products.
- Ignoring brow symmetry and drawing one thick block brow.
- Forgetting to ask about lash adhesive allergy and patch testing.