Haircutting
The geometry behind every cut
Almost every haircutting question reduces to four controls: lines (horizontal, vertical, diagonal), sections and partings, distribution (the direction hair is combed relative to its position), and elevation/projection (the angle at which hair is held from the head). Elevation controls graduation; distribution controls where weight builds; the guide controls length.
Guides
- Stationary guide - one section cut, all others follow that same length. Produces a graduated or solid form with no increasing length.
- Traveling guide - the guide moves as you cut, each section becoming the guide for the next. Produces layered, uniformly layered, or increasing-layer forms.
- Cutting over the fingers with a traveling guide is the standard uniform-layer technique.
Techniques to name correctly
Blunt (club) cutting for a solid line; graduated cutting for stacked weight; point cutting, notching, slithering, and razor cutting for texturizing; clipper-over-comb for short tapered areas. Tension matters - uneven tension creates uneven lines.
Traps
- Confusing elevation with distribution. Holding hair at 90 degrees is elevation; combing it out of its natural fall is distribution.
- A 0-degree cut is one length; the same cut performed with overdirection shifts weight and length.
- Razor cutting requires thick lather or wet hair and a sharp blade; it is not appropriate on fine, fragile, or overly textured hair.
Worked example
A client wants a graduated bob, longer in front, stacked at the nape. Solution: horizontal sections at the nape, stationary guide at the perimeter, elevation of about 45 degrees, cutting each subsection to the previous one; move up the head, then blend the sides with slight overdirection toward the face. Elevation below 90 keeps weight at the perimeter.