Hair Styling
Wet styling versus thermal styling
Wet styling (fingerwaving, pin curls, roller sets) relies on molding and shaping hair while wet, then drying it into a lasting shape. Thermal styling uses heat to temporarily alter hydrogen bonds. Know both, and know the tool-specific safety rules.
Pin curls and rollers
- A pin curl has a base (the area the curl sits on), a stem (the section between base and circle that determines direction and mobility), and a circle (the actual curl).
- No-stem curls sit on base - tight, long-lasting. Half-stem - medium. Full-stem - maximum mobility, least durability.
- Cascade curls are anchored and stand away from the head. Barrel curls are used at the nape in a vertical row.
- Roller diameter controls volume: larger rollers give smooth volume, smaller rollers give tighter curl. Rollers must be dry and wrapped with even tension; wet sets finish with a dry, then cool, then comb-out sequence.
Heat safety and hair analysis
The pressing comb and curling iron should never exceed the temperature the hair can tolerate; test on a tissue or on a hair strand first. Pressing is done on clean, dry hair, with a thermal protectant, and the comb is tested on tissue paper - if it scorches, it is too hot. On relaxed, lightened, or fine hair, lower the temperature and limit passes. Burning hair smells like burnt feathers.
Traps
- Confusing backcombing (teasing) with backbrushing.
- Assuming hairspray protects from heat - most do not; only a thermal protectant does.
- Applying a hot iron to wet hair, which boils moisture and damages the cuticle.
Worked example
A client wants a smooth blowout with lift at the crown on fine, color-treated hair. Use a round brush with a smaller barrel at the crown, medium heat, dry hair to 80 percent before brushing, keep the nozzle pointed down the shaft, and finish with cool air to set the shape.