Tools, Fabrics, Threads and Trims
This domain tests the operator's knowledge of hand tools, fabric grain and behaviour, thread selection, and trim identification - the material decisions that decide whether a seam holds and a garment matches.
Tools
- Measuring tape, seam gauge, 8–10 inch cutting shears, pinking shears, thread clipper, seam ripper, awl, tweezers, screwdriver, pins, tailor's chalk, tracing wheel, pattern notcher, needle gauge, SPI gauge, GSM cutter, pick glass.
- Keep fabric shears for fabric only; cutting paper dulls the blades.
Fabric basics
- Woven: plain, twill, satin. Knit: single jersey, rib, interlock, fleece. Nonwoven: used for interlining and some interfacing.
- Grain: lengthwise (warp, parallel to selvedge, least stretch), crosswise (weft), bias at 45° (maximum stretch).
- Know GSM, width (44, 58 and 60 inch are common), shrinkage, dye lot and shade band, and nap or pile direction.
- Relax knits for about 24 hours before spreading and cutting.
Threads
- Cotton, polyester, core-spun and filament. Ticket number, Tex and Ne are different numbering systems; Tex is the weight in grams of 1,000 m.
- Match thread size to fabric weight and needle size; a four-thread overlock needs four cones.
Trims
- Brand, size, care and content labels; hangtags; buttons; zippers (closed-end, open-end, invisible; metal, plastic or coil); snaps; hooks and eyes; elastic; interfacing (fusible or sew-in, woven or non-woven); lace, piping, drawcord, hook-and-loop tape.
Worked example
Front and back panels of the same style show a shade difference. The operator or cutter should check roll and dye-lot numbers and cut from one shade band, keeping bundles shade-sorted. Reasoning: dye lots vary slightly and a finished garment cannot be corrected later.
Traps
- Cutting across two shade bands in one bundle.
- Assuming all thread "numbers" are comparable across ticket, Tex and Ne.
- Confusing zipper length with the length of the tape it is mounted on.