Pattern Making and Garment Construction
Pattern Making and Garment Construction
This domain tests body measurement, drafting, pattern markings, fitting and assembly. Marks are lost when seam allowance, grainline or dart intake is handled carelessly.
Drafting and construction rules
- Take measurements over light clothing; keep the tape snug but not tight.
- Basic blocks are usually drafted without seam allowance unless stated. Add about 1–1.5 cm at seams and 2–3 cm at hems.
- Grainline must run parallel to the centre front or centre back; otherwise the garment twists.
- Darts shape flat fabric to body curves. Transfer darts by pivoting rather than guessing.
- Mark notches, fold lines and balance marks before removing the pattern.
- Staystitch curved edges, clip curves, and understitch facings for a clean finish.
Worked example
A skirt block has waist 70 cm and hip 90 cm. Total suppression = 90 − 70 = 20 cm. Distribute it as 2.5 cm at each side seam (5 cm), two front darts of 3.75 cm (7.5 cm) and two back darts of 3.75 cm (7.5 cm), giving 20 cm. Reasoning: suppression is the hip–waist difference shared around the circumference so the skirt fits both waist and hip.
Traps
Do not cut on the stitching line. Do not ignore grainline. Do not place front and back on the same fold. Do not skip truing darts and seam lines before cutting.
Key points
- Basic blocks normally exclude seam allowance unless stated.
- Grainline must be parallel to centre front or centre back.
- Dart intake equals the difference between adjacent body circumferences, distributed around the pattern.
- Notches and balance marks aid correct assembly.
- Truing and staystitching prevent distortion.