Shaving, Beard Trimming, and Facial Hair Services
This domain covers preparation, razor technique, skin tension, finishing products, and the outline decisions that make a beard look intentional.
Preparation and screening
Consult first, then check the skin. Do not shave over inflamed acne, razor bumps, cold sores, moles, warts, sunburn, or recently exfoliated skin. Ask about blood thinners, which make nicks bleed freely. Wrap the client with a towel and cape, apply a hot towel to soften the beard, then work lather into the hair against its growth direction.
Razor work
A straight razor is honed on a water stone, then stropped on leather before each use to realign the edge. Hold the razor at a slight angle (about 30 degrees), stretch the skin taut with the free hand, and use short strokes. Shave with the grain first; a second pass across the grain is acceptable for most clients, but sensitive skin should stay with the grain. Rinse, apply astringent or freshener such as witch hazel, then moisturizer. Styptic powder or alum stops nicks. Blades are single-use and go into a sharps container; the razor is cleaned and disinfected or sterilized after each client.
Beard trimming
Comb the beard into natural fall, then establish the outline: cheek line, jawline, and neckline. A full beard neckline typically sits one to two finger widths above the Adam's apple. Trim against the direction of growth with clippers or trimmer, using guards to blend lengths, then detail the edges. For a mustache, comb the hair down and trim to the lip line or as the client requests.
Worked example
A client's neckline looks too high. Because the client was tilted back in the chair, the natural beard line shifted; recline less, have him look straight ahead, and recheck before cutting.
Traps
Shaving against the grain on sensitive skin; using a dull blade and blaming the lather; skipping the strop; shaving over a mole.