Hair Coloring and Lightening
Hair Coloring and Lightening
This domain tests the level system, developer choice, patch and strand testing, and application order for tints and lighteners.
Core rules
- The level system runs from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde). Identify the natural level and the target level before mixing.
- Law of color: primary colors (red, yellow, blue) combine into secondary colors (orange, green, violet); complementary colors neutralize unwanted tones.
- Developer (hydrogen peroxide) volumes: 10 vol (3%) deposits, 20 vol (6%) lifts 1-2 levels, 30 vol (9%) lifts 2-3 levels, 40 vol (12%) lifts 3-4 levels. Higher volume means more lift and more damage.
- Patch test 24-48 hours before an aniline tint; strand test to check timing and result.
- Virgin tint application: mid-lengths and ends first, scalp area last, because scalp heat speeds processing.
- Retouch: apply to new growth only to avoid overlap and breakage.
Worked example
A client at level 4 wants a level 7 beige blonde in one process. Reasoning: that is three levels of lift, so 30 volume is required, and the underlying warm pigment (orange-gold) will show, so you choose a beige or ash target shade to control it. Because the scalp area processes faster, you apply there last and check every few minutes.
Traps
- Mixing developer volumes adds lift, not speed.
- If a client reports burning during lightening, remove the product immediately; do not "wait it out."
- Never use aniline tints on eyelashes or eyebrows.
- Overlapping tint causes banding and breakage.