Chemical Texture Services (Permanent Waving and Relaxing)
What the exam tests
Permanent waving and relaxing change disulfide bonds. The exam tests test curls, processing, neutralization, and scalp protection.
Core rules
- Perm: wrap hair on rods with even tension and end papers; apply waving lotion; process; rinse; neutralize; condition. A test curl shows when the desired pattern is reached.
- Relaxer: protect scalp and previously relaxed hair with base and barrier; apply to new growth; smooth without scratching; rinse thoroughly; use neutralizer; check pH.
- Do not relax hair that is damaged, recently lightened, or has a broken cuticle without a strand test and professional judgment.
- Neutralizer stops the chemical action and rebuilds disulfide bonds; skipping or shortening it leaves hair vulnerable.
Worked example
A client wants a relaxer retouch and has 2 inches of new growth. Applying relaxer through the ends would overprocess and cause breakage. The reasoned service is to apply to new growth only, keep product off previously relaxed hair, process by manufacturer time, rinse completely, then neutralize and condition. If the scalp has abrasions, reschedule.
Traps
“Neutralizer is optional”; overlapping relaxer; using a strong relaxer on fine or lightened hair; and wrapping a perm with uneven tension. Also remember that a test curl is not a substitute for reading the manufacturer’s processing time.