Haircutting and Hairdressing
Foundations
Every cut is built from four decisions: the section you take, the subsection (thin, even partings), the elevation (angle the hair is held away from the head), and the guide (the length reference). A stationary guide stays in one place and hair is brought to it; a traveling guide moves with each subsection and is used for uniform layers and blending.
Elevation, the tested core
- 0° (natural fall) - blunt, one-length cut; perimeter and weight line.
- 45° - graduated (wedge) shape; stacked at the nape.
- 90° - uniform layers, even all over.
- 180° - long layers, hair held straight up from the head.
Tension must be consistent: uneven tension shows up as a ragged line no amount of blending fixes. Cross-check every section by combing the hair in the opposite direction and looking for shelves or holes. Cut wet hair for control, dry hair to check the finished line. Account for growth patterns, cowlicks, widow's peaks, and density changes at the hairline before you commit to a perimeter.
Traps
Questions present a photo-free scenario and expect you to name the elevation from the resulting shape. "Graduated" means shorter at the bottom, longer on top - not the same as layered. A guide held at 90° does not create a one-length bob.
Worked example
A client wants volume at the crown and a close nape. Build a 45° graduated shape at the back: take horizontal sections, hold at 45° from the head, and use the first subsection as a stationary guide. Finish with a 90° check for balance.