Chemical Services and Hair/Scalp Treatments
Assess before you apply
Every chemical service starts with a client consultation and scalp analysis. Look for abrasions, eruptions, redness, flaking, or tenderness; check hair porosity, elasticity, and density. Ask about previous relaxers, perms, color, and medications. A patch test (typically 24–48 hours before an aniline-derivative tint) and a strand test protect both the client and you.
The chemistry in plain terms
Relaxers are highly alkaline and break disulfide bonds; perms reshape bonds and require a neutralizer to rebuild them. Color developers supply oxygen; higher volumes mean more lift and more damage. Treatments are classified by need: moisturizing for dry, porous hair, protein for weak elasticity.
Process discipline
Follow the manufacturer's mixing ratio exactly, apply to the correct area, and time it. For a relaxer retouch, product goes on new growth only, with protective base along the scalp; overlapping previously relaxed hair causes breakage. Rinse thoroughly, neutralize, and shampoo to the correct pH. Gloves and eye protection, ventilation, and labeled containers are mandatory. Record the formula, timing, and outcome on the client's card.
Traps
Questions confuse relaxers with perms, or ask what to do when a client has an irritated scalp - the answer is do not proceed. Timing shortcuts and overlapping relaxers are classic wrong answers.
Worked example
A client arrives with a scab at the nape and wants a relaxer touch-up. Rule of thumb: an open scalp means postpone. Reschedule once the skin has healed, then apply to new growth only.