Chemical Services: Coloring, Permanent Waving, and Relaxing
Chemistry basics
Chemical services change bonds or deposit color. Know pH, alkalinity, developer strength, processing time, and the difference between lifting and depositing color. A patch test and strand test are not optional rituals; they are risk controls. Hair analysis-porosity, elasticity, density-determines whether the service is safe.
Relaxers and perms
Relaxers break disulfide bonds; neutralizers rebuild them and must be used exactly as directed. Perms wrap hair around rods and reduce then neutralize bonds. Overlapping relaxer onto previously relaxed hair, or insufficient rinsing, causes breakage and burns. Always follow manufacturer instructions for mixing, timing, and neutralizing.
Color
Use the color wheel to neutralize unwanted tones. Developer volume controls lift; more volume is not always better. Gray coverage, porosity, and previous chemical history change results. Metallic salts and unknown box color can create unpredictable reactions.
Traps
Questions often swap “shampoo” and “neutralizer,” or imply that a stronger relaxer is faster and therefore better. Another trap is skipping the strand test because the client “always uses this formula.”
Worked rule
When in doubt, strand test: apply the product to a small, hidden section, time it, rinse, and evaluate strength and color before committing the whole head.