Shaving, Beard Trimming, and Facial Hair Services
Razor anatomy and edge maintenance
Know the straight razor by its parts: point, edge, back, tang, shank, and scales (handle). Two different maintenance steps get swapped in exam questions every time. Honing grinds and sharpens the edge on a stone; stropping realigns and smooths the edge on leather. Strop before and after every shave; hone only when stropping no longer restores a comfortable cut. A razor that pulls or skips needs edge care, not more pressure.
The shave itself
Prepare the skin with a warm towel and lather to soften the beard, then hold the blade at roughly a 30° angle to the skin. Use the free hand to stretch and hold skin taut - tension, not blade pressure, is what produces a close shave. Shave in the direction of hair growth on the first pass; a second pass against the grain is reserved for tolerant skin and can provoke irritation, ingrown hairs, and pseudofolliculitis barbae. Finish with a cool towel and an astringent aftershave.
Beard trimming and line work
Establish lines before you shorten length: the cheek line follows its natural growth boundary, and the neckline is set just above the Adam's apple or along the jaw, then blended so no hard band appears. Trim against the comb or with the grain of the beard and check the client seated upright - lines read differently when the chin is lifted.
Contraindications and safety
Do not shave over moles, warts, inflamed or broken skin, or active acne. Every nick is a blood exposure: stop, glove, clean the area, disinfect implements, dispose of waste in a closed container, and wash hands.
Worked example
A client says the razor "drags on the second pass." The answer is not a closer angle - strop the razor, re-lather, and reduce the number of against-the-grain strokes.