Hair and Scalp Treatments
Analyze before you treat
Two analyses drive every treatment. Scalp analysis looks at moisture, oiliness, flaking, redness, and lesions; hair analysis looks at texture (fine/medium/coarse), density, porosity, and elasticity. Porosity is tested by feel and by how quickly hair absorbs water; elasticity is tested by stretching a strand - healthy hair stretches and returns. Low elasticity means fragile hair: go gentle, use lower pH products, and avoid heat.
What a barber may and may not do
Barbers may shampoo, condition, apply scalp treatments, and perform scalp massage. Barbers may not treat disease. Dandruff (pityriasis) may be addressed with a medicated shampoo, but psoriasis, seborrheic dermatitis with open lesions, ringworm, impetigo, and unexplained hair loss are referred to a physician. Any open wound, recent chemical burn, or contagious condition is a contraindication to massage and treatment.
Massage movements and shampoo chemistry
Know effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (percussion), and friction (small circular pressure). Massage is contraindicated over inflamed or broken skin. Shampoo pH is a frequent question: acid-balanced shampoos near pH 4.5–5.5 match hair and minimize cuticle swelling; alkaline soaps swell and roughen the cuticle. Clarifying shampoos strip buildup and are used sparingly.
Traps
The classic trap is offering a “treatment” for a scalp disease. Another is confusing porosity with density, or recommending high heat for low-elasticity hair.
Rule of thumb
If it has a medical name, refer it; if it has a cosmetic name, treat it.