AK Barber study materials
AK Barber study resources

AK Barber key terms

AK Barber · Get comfortable with the vocabulary.

Sanitation

The process of cleaning implements and surfaces to reduce the number of pathogens to a safe level. It is the lowest level of infection control and is required for tools that only touch intact skin or are not reusable.

Related: Disinfection, Sterilization, Bloodborne Pathogens Standard
Disinfection

The use of an EPA-registered chemical agent to destroy most harmful microorganisms on hard, nonporous implements and surfaces. It is required for tools such as clippers, shears, and combs after each client.

Related: Sanitation, Sterilization, EPA-Registered Disinfectant
Sterilization

The complete destruction of all microbial life, including bacterial spores, usually achieved with an autoclave using high-pressure steam. It is the highest level of infection control and is used for items that may contact broken skin or blood.

Related: Disinfection, Autoclave
Bloodborne Pathogens Standard

An OSHA regulation requiring employers to protect workers from exposure to blood and other potentially infectious materials through training, protective equipment, and safe work practices. Barbers must follow it when blood or broken skin may be present.

Related: Universal Precautions, Sanitation
Universal Precautions

An infection-control approach in which all blood and body fluids are treated as if they carry infectious disease, regardless of the client's known health status. It guides glove use, cleanup, and handling of contaminated items.

Related: Bloodborne Pathogens Standard, Disinfection
EPA-Registered Disinfectant

A product approved by the Environmental Protection Agency for killing specific microorganisms on surfaces when used exactly as the label directs. Barbers must follow the label's contact time and dilution instructions.

Related: Disinfection, Contact Time
Contact Time

The number of minutes an implement must stay fully submerged or wet with disinfectant for the product to work as labeled. Cutting this time short means the tool is not properly disinfected.

Related: EPA-Registered Disinfectant
Autoclave

A device that sterilizes tools using high-pressure steam and heat. It is used for items that cannot be safely disinfected with chemicals or that may contact blood or broken skin.

Related: Sterilization
Porous vs. Nonporous Implements

Porous items, such as wooden or absorbent materials, soak up liquids and cannot be reliably disinfected, so they must be discarded after use. Nonporous items, like metal and hard plastic, can be cleaned and disinfected.

Related: Disinfection, Sanitation
Hair Shaft Layers

The three parts of a hair strand: the cuticle (outer protective scales), the cortex (middle layer holding pigment and strength), and the medulla (central core). Chemical services act mainly on the cuticle and cortex.

Related: Cuticle, Cortex, pH Scale
Cuticle

The tough, overlapping outer layer of the hair that protects the inner layers and controls how much moisture and chemicals enter. It must be lifted or opened for color and waving products to work.

Related: Hair Shaft Layers, Cortex, pH Scale
Cortex

The thick middle layer of the hair where melanin pigment and most of the hair's strength and elasticity reside. Chemical coloring, lightening, and waving change the cortex to alter color or shape.

Related: Hair Shaft Layers, Melanin, Cuticle
Melanin

The natural pigment produced in the hair and skin that gives color. There are two types: eumelanin (brown and black) and pheomelanin (red and yellow), and their ratio determines a person's natural hair color.

Related: Cortex, Hair Lightening
pH Scale

A scale from 0 to 14 that measures how acidic or alkaline a substance is, with 7 being neutral. Hair and skin are mildly acidic, and chemical products work by raising or lowering pH.

Related: Acid-Balance, Alkaline, Hair Lightening
Acid-Balance

A mildly acidic condition, around pH 4.5 to 5.5, that matches the natural state of hair and skin. Acid-balanced products help close the cuticle and preserve moisture and shine.

Related: pH Scale, Cuticle
Alkaline

A pH above 7 that raises the cuticle and swells the hair, allowing chemicals to penetrate. Permanent waves, relaxers, and lighteners are alkaline and can damage hair if misused.

Related: pH Scale, Cuticle, Relaxer
Developer

A hydrogen peroxide solution that, when mixed with color or lightener, opens the cuticle and develops the color or lifts pigment. Its strength, called volume, controls how much lightening occurs.

Related: Hair Lightening, Oxidation
Oxidation

A chemical reaction in which oxygen combines with another substance, such as when developer breaks down melanin or forms color molecules inside the hair. It is the basis of permanent color and lightening.

Related: Developer, Hair Lightening
Hair Lightening

The process of removing natural or artificial pigment from the hair using lightener and developer. It can only lighten hair and cannot darken it, and it requires careful timing to avoid damage.

Related: Developer, Melanin, Oxidation
Patch Test

A small test of a product, such as dye or lightener, applied to the skin before a full service to check for an allergic reaction. It protects the client from unexpected sensitivity.

Related: Developer
Relaxer

A strong alkaline chemical, usually containing sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, or guanidine, that straightens curly or wavy hair by breaking and reforming bonds. It requires careful timing and scalp protection.

Related: Permanent Wave, Disulfide Bond, Alkaline
Permanent Wave

A chemical service that adds curl or wave to straight hair by breaking disulfide bonds, reshaping them around rods, and reforming them with a neutralizer. The result lasts until the hair grows out.

Related: Disulfide Bond, Neutralizer, Relaxer
Disulfide Bond

A strong chemical link between sulfur atoms in the hair's cortex that gives hair its shape and strength. Waving and relaxing break these bonds and then rebuild them in a new shape.

Related: Permanent Wave, Relaxer, Neutralizer
Neutralizer

The second step of a permanent wave that stops the waving action and rebuilds the disulfide bonds in their new curled position. It usually contains an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide.

Related: Permanent Wave, Disulfide Bond
Texture

The diameter of an individual hair strand, described as fine, medium, or coarse. Texture affects how quickly hair absorbs products and how much chemical processing it can tolerate.

Related: Porosity, Density
Porosity

The ability of the hair to absorb and hold moisture, determined by the condition of the cuticle. Low porosity resists absorption, while high porosity absorbs quickly but loses moisture easily.

Related: Cuticle, Texture
Density

The number of hair strands per square inch on the scalp. Density is different from texture and helps determine how much product to use and how to section the hair.

Related: Texture
Shampoo

A cleansing product that removes dirt, oil, and product buildup from the hair and scalp. Its main ingredients are water, surfactants, and conditioning agents, and it is chosen to match the client's scalp and hair needs.

Related: Conditioner, Surfactant
Conditioner

A product that smooths the cuticle, adds moisture, and improves manageability after shampooing. It is applied mainly to the mid-lengths and ends and rinsed or left in as directed.

Related: Shampoo, Cuticle
Surfactant

A molecule in shampoo that attracts both water and oil, allowing oil and dirt to be lifted and rinsed away. It is the main cleansing ingredient in most shampoos.

Related: Shampoo
Sectioning

Dividing the hair into clean, controlled parts before cutting, coloring, or styling so each area can be worked evenly. Consistent sectioning improves accuracy and prevents uneven results.

Related: Elevation, Guide
Elevation

The angle at which the hair is held away from the head while cutting, which controls the resulting shape and length. Low elevation builds weight, while high elevation creates layers and graduation.

Related: Sectioning, Guide
Guide

The first cut section of hair that sets the length and shape for the rest of the haircut. All later sections are cut to match this guide, keeping the style balanced.

Related: Sectioning, Elevation
Razor Cutting

A cutting technique using a straight razor or razor comb to create soft, textured ends and blended layers. It requires a sharp blade and careful control because it removes hair quickly.

Related: Elevation, Straight Razor
Straight Razor

A sharp, open-blade tool used for shaving and detailing facial hair. It must be held at a shallow angle against the skin and used with proper tension to avoid nicks and cuts.

Related: Shaving Lather, Razor Cutting, Beard Trimming
Shaving Lather

A warm, moist foam applied to the face before shaving to soften the beard, lubricate the skin, and help the razor glide. It reduces friction and irritation during the shave.

Related: Straight Razor, Razor Bumps
Razor Bumps

Irritated, inflamed bumps that form when shaved hair curls back into the skin, common on curly facial hair. Gentle shaving technique, exfoliation, and avoiding close repeated passes help prevent them.

Related: Shaving Lather, Facial Hair Design
Facial Hair Design

Shaping and outlining beards, mustaches, and goatees with clippers, trimmers, and razors to create a clean, balanced look. It considers face shape, growth patterns, and the client's preference.

Related: Beard Trimming, Straight Razor
Beard Trimming

Shortening and shaping facial hair with clippers, trimmers, or scissors to a desired length and outline. It includes edging the neckline and cheeks for a neat finish.

Related: Facial Hair Design, Clipper Guard
Clipper Guard

A removable attachment placed over clipper blades to control the length of hair left after cutting. Different guard sizes produce different lengths and help prevent cutting too close.

Related: Beard Trimming, Clipper Maintenance
Clipper Maintenance

The routine care of clippers, including brushing out hair, oiling the blades, and disinfecting between clients. Proper maintenance keeps tools sharp, safe, and effective.

Related: Clipper Guard, Disinfection
Scope of Practice

The set of services and tasks a licensed barber is legally allowed to perform under state law. Working outside it can lead to discipline or loss of license.

Related: Licensure, Continuing Education
Licensure

The legal permission to practice barbering granted by the state after meeting education, examination, and other requirements. It must be kept current through renewal to remain valid.

Related: Scope of Practice, Continuing Education
Continuing Education

Required training hours that licensees complete to renew their license and stay current on safety and industry practices. The specific hours and topics are set by state rules.

Related: Licensure, Scope of Practice