Chemical Texture Services (Permanent Waving and Relaxing)
Core concepts
Know the two-step chemistry: a reducing agent (ammonium thioglycolate) breaks disulfide bonds; a neutralizer (hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate) rebuilds them in the new shape. Understand relaxers (sodium hydroxide, no-lye/calcium hydroxide, thio relaxers) and how they straighten by breaking bonds. Know the analysis of hair (porosity, elasticity, density, texture) before any service.
Traps to watch
Questions test that the neutralizer is essential-without it the wave/relaxer will not lock in and hair can be damaged. Do not confuse a relaxer (straightens) with a permanent wave (curls). Never perm or relax hair that is damaged, over-processed, or has had metallic salts. Always patch test and strand test. Timing is critical: over-processing causes breakage.
Worked rule of thumb
Analyze first: if hair stretches and does not return (low elasticity) or is highly porous, do not proceed. Strand test to determine processing time, then follow the manufacturer's timing exactly.
Safety
Wear gloves, protect the scalp, avoid overlapping relaxer on previously relaxed hair, and rinse thoroughly before neutralizing.