AK Esthetician cheat sheet

Sanitation removes visible debris and reduces microbes on surfaces; disinfection kills most pathogenic organisms on nonporous implements; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.

An EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant labeled bactericidal, virucidal, and fungicidal is the standard for implements that contact skin or body fluids.

Immersible implements must be cleaned, then fully submerged in disinfectant for the label contact time (commonly 10 minutes) and dried before storage.

Porous items that cannot be disinfected (cotton, wooden sticks, sponges) are single-use and must be discarded after one client.

Blood and body-fluid spills are cleaned with gloves, then the surface is disinfected with an EPA-registered tuberculocidal product; contaminated waste goes in a lined, closed container.

Hand washing with soap and running water for at least 20 seconds is required before and after each client and after glove removal; hand sanitizer is not a substitute when hands are visibly soiled.

Single-use sharps such as lancets and extractor tips go into a rigid, puncture-resistant sharps container; never recap or bend a used needle.

A Material Safety Data Sheet (SDS) must be on file for every chemical in the salon and accessible to workers; it lists hazards, first aid, and handling.

The skin has three main layers: epidermis (outer, avascular), dermis (contains collagen, elastin, nerves, vessels, glands), and subcutaneous/hypodermis (fat and connective tissue).

The epidermis stratum corneum is the outermost barrier layer of dead keratinized cells; the basal layer is where new cells form and migrate upward over about 28 days.

Melanocytes in the basal layer produce melanin, which determines skin color and provides some UV protection.

Sebaceous glands secrete sebum and are most concentrated on the face, scalp, chest, and back; sebum production is influenced by androgens.

Eccrine sweat glands regulate temperature and are distributed over most of the body; apocrine glands are located mainly in the axillae and groin.

Facial blood supply comes largely from the external carotid (facial artery) and internal carotid (ophthalmic branches); the face has rich anastomoses.

Facial motor innervation is from the facial nerve (cranial nerve VII); sensory innervation of the face is from the trigeminal nerve (cranial nerve V).

Hair grows from the follicle; the growth cycle is anagen (active growth), catagen (transition), and telogen (resting/shedding).

Fitzpatrick phototypes I–VI describe sun reactivity: I always burns and never tans; VI never burns and tans deeply. Higher types carry greater risk of hyperpigmentation from injury or inflammation.

The four classic skin types are normal, dry (alipidic), oily, and combination; a fifth category, sensitive, describes reactivity rather than oil level.

Skin analysis uses observation, palpation, and client history; magnification and a Wood's lamp may aid assessment of pores, texture, and pigmentation.

A Wood's lamp reveals dehydration (light violet), thickened sebum (yellow), and certain pigmentation or bacterial fluorescence under dark conditions.

Oily skin shows enlarged pores, shine, and comedones; dry skin shows flaking, tightness, and fine lines; combination skin is oily in the T-zone and dry on cheeks.

Sensitive skin is assessed by history of stinging, redness, or reaction to products; patch testing and conservative product selection reduce risk.

Contraindications to facial treatment include active infection, open lesions, recent chemical peel or waxing, sunburn, and uncontrolled skin disease; refer when uncertain.

Documentation of skin type, concerns, and products used protects the esthetician and guides future service decisions.

A basic facial sequence is consultation, cleansing, skin analysis, exfoliation, massage, mask, and moisturizer/sun protection; steps may be modified for skin type.

Facial massage movements follow the direction of muscle and lymphatic flow, generally upward and outward, using light pressure on the face and neck.

Extractions are performed only on lesions that are ready; use gentle pressure with fingers wrapped in tissue or a comedone extractor, and avoid inflamed or cystic lesions.

Chemical exfoliants such as alpha hydroxy acids work by loosening corneocyte cohesion; concentration and pH determine strength, and neutralization or timed removal is required.

Contraindications to chemical exfoliation include recent isotretinoin use, active infection, pregnancy (for certain agents), and recent waxing or dermabrasion.

High-frequency current may be used to help dry blemishes; galvanic current is used for product penetration (cataphoresis) or deep cleansing (desincrustation).

Client draping, eye protection, and proper product labeling are part of every facial service; keep products covered and tools clean between clients.

Aftercare instructions include sun protection, avoidance of harsh products, and reporting unusual reactions.

Hair removal methods include waxing (soft and hard), sugaring, threading, depilatory creams, and electrolysis or laser (performed by licensed/certified specialists).

Wax should be applied in the direction of hair growth and removed against the direction of growth; skin is held taut to reduce trauma.

Hard wax is applied thicker, cools to a pliable state, and is removed without a strip; it is suited to coarse or sensitive-area hair.

Contraindications to waxing include isotretinoin use, recent chemical peel or microdermabrasion, active skin infection, sunburn, and use of certain prescription retinoids.

Patch testing is recommended for clients with sensitive skin or first-time waxing; test on a small area and observe for reaction.

Wax temperature must be checked before application to prevent burns; test on the inner wrist or a small area.

Double-dipping is prohibited; use a fresh applicator for each application to prevent cross-contamination.

Post-wax care includes avoiding heat, friction, and tight clothing, and applying a soothing product; clients with diabetes or circulatory issues warrant extra caution.

Foundation shade matching is done along the jawline in natural light, comparing undertone (warm, cool, neutral) and depth to the client's skin.

Color theory guides correction: green neutralizes redness, peach/orange corrects blue/purple, and yellow corrects mild redness or dullness.

Makeup brushes and sponges must be cleaned and disinfected between clients; disposable applicators are preferred for eyes and lips.

Lash and brow tinting requires a patch test 24–48 hours before service; keep product out of the eyes and follow manufacturer timing.

Eyelash extensions and perming are advanced services with specific training; adhesives and solutions require ventilation and skin sensitivity screening.

Brow shaping by waxing, tweezing, or threading follows the natural brow bone; avoid over-thinning and respect client preference and symmetry.

Sanitation for lash/brow services includes clean hands, disinfected tools, fresh disposables, and proper ventilation for adhesives.

Contraindications for eye-area services include active eye infection, recent eye surgery, and known allergy to adhesive or dye components.

pH measures acidity or alkalinity on a 0–14 scale; skin's surface pH is slightly acidic (about 4.5–5.5), supporting barrier function.

Surfactants cleanse by having hydrophilic heads and lipophilic tails; they lift oil and debris so it can be rinsed away.

Emulsions combine water and oil with an emulsifier; lotions and creams are emulsions, and separation indicates instability.

Humectants attract water (glycerin, hyaluronic acid), emollients soften and smooth (oils, esters), and occlusives block water loss (petrolatum, silicones).

Antioxidants such as vitamin C and E can degrade with light and air; packaging and storage affect stability.

Sun protection: SPF measures UVB protection; broad-spectrum labeling indicates UVA coverage. Reapply according to label directions.

Product labels list ingredients in descending order of concentration; active ingredients and allergens should be reviewed for client sensitivity.

Mixing products can cause irritation or inactivate actives; follow manufacturer instructions and avoid combining incompatible acids or retinoids.

A client consultation and intake form document health history, medications, allergies, and prior services; informed consent should be obtained before service.

Client records are confidential and should be stored securely; share information only as required by law or with client consent.

Pricing should reflect service cost, time, product use, and overhead; a written service menu and cancellation policy reduce disputes.

Professional boundaries include clear communication, avoiding dual relationships, and referring medical concerns to a physician.

Retail recommendations should be based on the client's skin analysis and needs, with no pressure or misleading claims.

Record keeping includes service date, products used, and any reactions; this supports continuity of care and risk management.

Marketing and advertising must be truthful and avoid medical claims that exceed the esthetician's scope of practice.

Continuing education and staying current with regulations support competence and license renewal.

The Alaska Board of Barbers and Hairdressers regulates estheticians under the Department of Commerce, Community, and Economic Development (DCCED), Division of Corporations, Business and Professional Licensing.

Esthetician licensure in Alaska requires completion of an approved esthetics program and passage of the required examinations; license renewal is required on the schedule set by the board.

A license must be posted or available at the place of practice, and services must be performed in a licensed shop or approved setting.

Sanitation rules require cleaning and disinfecting implements, using single-use items where required, and maintaining a sanitary premises.

Continuing education requirements, if any, and renewal deadlines are set by the board; verify current rules directly with the board because they change.

Scope of practice limits estheticians to cosmetic skin care; medical procedures such as injections, laser resurfacing, and diagnosis are outside the esthetician scope.

Advertising and business names must comply with board rules; unlicensed practice and employing unlicensed persons are prohibited.

Report suspected violations or unsafe conditions to the board; maintain records as required for inspection.