Relaxer Application on a Client with a Sensitive Scalp
A client with tightly coiled, coarse hair requests a relaxer to achieve a straight style. She has a sensitive scalp and mentions that her last relaxer, done at another salon, caused burns and scabbing. She has not had a relaxer in 10 weeks and has about 1.5 inches of new growth. Her scalp appears healthy now, with no visible sores. She wants the relaxer today. You have a no-lye relaxer, a lye relaxer, and a scalp protector. The shop uses a standard relaxer system with a 20-minute maximum processing time. The client is anxious about burning.
1. How do you determine which relaxer to use and what precautions to take to minimize the risk of burns?
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First, assess scalp condition: no sores, but history of sensitivity. No-lye relaxers are often gentler on the scalp but can be more drying; lye relaxers are faster but can irritate. Given the sensitive scalp, a no-lye relaxer with a scalp protector (base) is safer. Apply base thoroughly to scalp and hairline, especially around ears and nape. Do not shampoo before service (to preserve natural oils). Use a protective cream around the hairline. Perform a patch test if possible. Check for any abrasions. During application, avoid scratching or pulling. Use a timer and do not exceed recommended time. Have a neutralizing shampoo ready. If client feels burning, rinse immediately. Consider a relaxer with built-in scalp protection. Also, advise client to avoid washing hair 3 days prior and to inform of any scalp sensitivity on the day.
2. Describe the relaxer application process, including sectioning, timing, and neutralizing, with specific attention to the new growth and previously relaxed hair.
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- Section hair into four quadrants. 2. Apply base to scalp and hairline. 3. Starting at the nape (or crown, depending on pattern), apply relaxer to new growth only, using a brush and avoiding overlapping onto previously relaxed hair. Work quickly but carefully. 4. Smooth with the back of a comb, not the teeth, to avoid scratching. 5. Process according to manufacturer's instructions, checking every 5 minutes; do not exceed 20 minutes. 6. Rinse thoroughly with warm water, then apply neutralizing shampoo, lather, and wait 3-5 minutes; repeat until shampoo suds are white. 7. Apply a conditioner or bond builder. 8. Style as desired. Emphasize that if any burning occurs, rinse immediately and discontinue. For the previously relaxed hair, avoid applying relaxer except for the last 1-2 minutes to blend, if necessary, but better to protect with conditioner. Given the client's anxiety, communicate each step and check in frequently.