AL Barber cheat sheet

Disinfection kills most pathogenic organisms on surfaces; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.

EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant with tuberculocidal claim is required for blood or body-fluid contact.

Implements must be cleaned of debris before disinfection; organic matter inactivates many disinfectants.

Porous items (towels, neck strips) are single-use only and must be discarded after each client.

Wet sanitizer or disinfectant must remain in contact with the surface for the label's contact time to be effective.

Blood spill procedure: wear gloves, absorb with disposable towel, clean with soap and water, then disinfect with tuberculocidal product.

Hand washing with soap and warm water for at least 20 seconds is required before and after each client service.

Electrical tools must be inspected for frayed cords; damaged equipment is removed from service immediately.

Scalp analysis precedes shampooing: note redness, flaking, lesions, or oiliness to select the correct shampoo.

Shampoo pH near 4.5–5.5 matches hair and scalp and minimizes cuticle swelling.

Water temperature for shampooing is warm, approximately 98–105°F (37–40°C); hot water strips oils and irritates scalp.

Massage manipulations during shampooing include effleurage, petrissage, and tapotement; friction is applied to scalp, not hair.

Conditioner is applied mid-shaft to ends; root application increases oiliness and weighs hair down.

A scalp treatment is contraindicated when open lesions, abrasions, or contagious conditions are present.

Rinse thoroughly; shampoo residue dulls hair and can cause flaking that mimics dandruff.

Hard water minerals can build up on hair; clarifying or chelating shampoo removes mineral residue.

Elevation (projection) is the angle at which hair is held from the head; 0° builds weight, 90° layers, 180° removes weight.

A blunt cut is created at 0° elevation with no tension; a graduated cut uses 45° elevation.

Cross-checking means cutting the same section from a perpendicular angle to verify balance and length.

Guide (section) is the first cut strand that establishes length; all subsequent sections follow it.

Texturizing shears remove bulk and create mobility; they should not be used on the perimeter line of a blunt cut.

Clipper-over-comb uses the comb as a guide and guard; the blade cuts only hair protruding through the comb teeth.

Tapering reduces length and weight toward the hairline; fading blends the shortest hair at the perimeter into longer lengths above.

Wet hair is longer than dry hair; cutting wet allows precision but final check must be done dry.

Shaving lather softens the beard and holds hair upright; it is applied against the grain for maximum lift.

Shaving strokes with the grain reduce irritation; against the grain gives a closer shave but increases razor burn risk.

A straight razor should be held at approximately 30° to the skin; too steep an angle causes nicks.

Hot towel before shaving opens pores and softens hair; a cool towel after shaving closes pores and soothes skin.

Beard trimming follows growth pattern: trim with the grain to avoid pulling and uneven lines.

Razor bumps (pseudofolliculitis barbae) are aggravated by close shaves; a single-pass with-grain shave is recommended.

Never shave over moles, warts, or inflamed skin; these areas are contraindicated for shaving.

Disposable razor blades are single-use and must be discarded in a sharps container after each client.

Facial massage movements include effleurage (light stroking), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (tapping), and friction.

Massage direction generally follows muscle origin to insertion and upward/outward along lymphatic flow.

Contraindications for facial massage include acne lesions, open sores, recent surgery, and contagious skin conditions.

Skin types: normal, dry, oily, combination, and sensitive; product selection is based on the observed type.

Cleansing, exfoliation, massage, mask, and moisturizer are the standard sequence of a basic facial.

Extraction should be performed only on pustules with sterile tools and light pressure; cysts are not extracted.

Facial massage increases circulation and glandular activity; it should be avoided over inflamed or broken skin.

Client draping and eye protection (cotton pads) are required during facial services to protect the client and uniform.

The law of color: primary colors are red, yellow, blue; secondary colors are orange, green, violet; tertiary colors mix primary and adjacent secondary.

Level system runs 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde); each level represents a degree of lightness or darkness.

Developer (hydrogen peroxide) volumes: 10 vol (3%) deposits, 20 vol (6%) lifts 1–2 levels, 30 vol (9%) lifts 2–3 levels, 40 vol (12%) lifts 3–4 levels.

Aniline derivative (oxidative) colors require developer and are mixed 1:1 or 1:2 per manufacturer; they lift and deposit.

Semi-permanent color deposits only, contains no ammonia or peroxide, and fades over 4–6 shampoos.

Strand test predicts color result, processing time, and scalp sensitivity before full application.

Patch test for allergy is performed 24–48 hours before aniline derivative color service.

Lightening (bleach) lifts natural pigment through stages: red, red-orange, orange, yellow-orange, yellow, pale yellow.

Permanent wave process: thio relaxer breaks disulfide bonds, rinsing removes product, neutralizer rebuilds bonds in new shape.

Thioglycolate (cold wave) pH is approximately 9.0–9.5; relaxers are stronger and have higher pH (11–14).

Rod size determines curl size: smaller rods produce tighter curls, larger rods produce looser waves.

Processing time is determined by hair porosity, texture, and product strength; test curl verifies wave formation.

Neutralizer (hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate) must remain on hair for the full manufacturer time to stop processing.

Relaxer application: protect scalp with base cream, apply to new growth first, and never overlap onto previously relaxed hair.

Hair must not be shampooed for 48–72 hours after a relaxer to allow scalp to return to normal pH.

Chemical texture services are contraindicated on hair with metallic salts, recent henna, or compromised (overprocessed) hair.

Hair shaft layers: cuticle (outer protective), cortex (middle, contains pigment and strength), medulla (innermost, may be absent).

Hair follicle is a tube-like depression in the skin; the bulb at its base contains the matrix where hair grows.

The arrector pili muscle contracts to make hair stand up (goose bumps) and is attached to the follicle.

Sebaceous glands secrete sebum, which lubricates skin and hair; they are attached to the follicle.

Skin layers: epidermis (outer), dermis (middle, contains nerves, glands, follicles), subcutaneous (fatty layer).

Hair growth cycles: anagen (growth), catagen (transition), telogen (resting); shedding occurs at end of telogen.

The papilla contains blood and nerve supply that nourishes the hair bulb.

Nail and hair are composed primarily of keratin, a fibrous protein.

Alabama barbering is regulated by the Alabama Board of Barbering and Cosmetology (ABBC).

A barber license must be displayed in the shop; shops must post their license and inspection certificate.

Minimum required sanitation: wet sanitizer for implements, closed container for disinfectant, and covered waste container.

Barbers must complete continuing education as required by the Board for license renewal.

Client records for chemical services should be retained per Board rule; a release form is recommended for chemical services.

Professional ethics include confidentiality, informed consent, and refusing services when contraindicated.

Shops must be inspected and pass an inspection to maintain licensure; violations can result in fines or license suspension.

Only licensed individuals may perform barbering services; apprentices must work under a licensed barber's supervision.