Haircutting and Hair Shaping
Tools and their logic
Know shears (blunt or slide cutting), razor (softens, creates texture), clippers (bulk removal, fades), and thinning shears (reduce bulk without changing length). Each tool changes the line differently; a trap asks which tool creates a soft, tapered edge - the razor or clipper, not the shear.
Sectioning and elevation
Every cut begins with clean, parted sections. Understand elevation (the angle at which hair is held from the head): zero elevation builds weight and length; 45 degrees layers; 90 degrees creates uniform layers; 180 degrees removes weight and creates graduation. Distribution (how hair falls) and projection work with elevation to determine the result. Trap: confusing elevation with distribution.
Cutting techniques
Blunt cut - straight line, heavy perimeter. Layered cut - graduated lengths. Graduation - stacked lengths, often at the nape. Taper - gradual shortening toward neck and ears. Texturizing - removing bulk for movement. Slide cutting - shear slides down the strand for softness. Notching - small V cuts for texture. Point cutting - vertical snips into the ends.
Balance and cross-checking
Cross-check the cut by parting in the opposite direction; check balance on both sides. Remember the head's reference points: nape, crown, parietal ridge, apex, occipital bone.
Worked rule of thumb
"Elevation controls weight; the tool controls texture." Identify what the question wants changed before choosing a technique.
Trap to watch
Questions about thinning shears used on the scalp line or on fine hair - overuse removes too much volume.