AL Master Barber cheat sheet

Sanitizing reduces pathogens on surfaces to a safe level; disinfection destroys most pathogens on nonporous implements; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.

An EPA-registered hospital disinfectant with a tuberculocidal claim is required for items that contact blood or body fluids; quats are used for general surface disinfection.

Blood and body-fluid spills: wear gloves, absorb with disposable towel, clean with detergent, disinfect with EPA hospital disinfectant, and dispose of materials in a sealed bag.

Implements must be cleaned of debris, then completely immersed in disinfectant for the label's contact time (commonly 10 minutes) before reuse.

Porous items that contact blood or body fluids (towels, cotton, neck strips) are single-use and must be discarded, never disinfected and reused.

Electrical tools: unplug before cleaning, keep motor and cords free of water and hair, and inspect cords for fraying; damaged cords are removed from service.

Hand washing uses soap and warm running water with friction for at least 20 seconds; an alcohol-based hand sanitizer is not a substitute when hands are visibly soiled.

Material Safety Data Sheets (SDS) must be kept on site for every chemical product and be accessible to workers.

Hair is roughly 90 percent protein (keratin); the cortex provides strength, elasticity, and pigment, while the medulla is the innermost layer and may be absent in fine hair.

The hair growth cycle: anagen (active growth, years), catagen (transition, weeks), and telogen (resting/shedding, months); normal daily shedding is about 50-100 hairs.

Scalp types are classified as normal, dry, oily, or combination; treatment selection follows the observed condition, not the client's preference.

A scalp analysis is performed before a treatment; contraindications include abrasions, open lesions, recent chemical burns, and contagious conditions such as ringworm or lice.

Shampoo pH: lower pH (acid-balanced, ~4.5-5.5) smooths the cuticle; higher-alkaline shampoos swell the cuticle and are used for deep cleansing.

Conditioners work by depositing on the cuticle, lowering friction and improving combability; protein treatments temporarily fill gaps in damaged, porous hair.

Hair elasticity test: a wet strand should stretch and return; hair that snaps immediately lacks elasticity and signals over-processing.

Porosity test: hair that absorbs water quickly is highly porous (damaged cuticle); hair that repels water is low porosity and resists moisture.

The four basic haircut forms are solid (one length), graduated, layered, and uniform (same length throughout); each produces a distinct silhouette.

Elevation (projection) is the angle at which hair is held from the head; 0 degrees builds weight, 45 degrees graduates, 90 degrees layers, and 180 degrees removes the most weight.

Distribution describes where hair is directed relative to its section: natural falling, shifted, or perpendicular.

A guide (guideline) is the first cut strand that establishes length; a stationary guide does not move, while a traveling guide moves with each section.

Blunt or club cutting creates a strong, solid perimeter line; point cutting and slide cutting soften weight and texturize ends.

Cross-checking means cutting the same area from a different direction to verify balance and evenness.

The apex is the highest point of the head; the parietal ridge is the widest curve, and the occipital bone marks the curve at the back of the skull.

Blow-dry styling: rough-dry to about 80 percent, direct airflow from scalp to ends along the cuticle, and use a nozzle for control; thermal tools should be set according to hair texture and condition.

Shaving lather softens the hair and provides glide; wet the beard area with warm water before lathering to soften keratin.

Shave in the direction of hair growth (with the grain) to reduce irritation; against-the-grain passes increase the risk of razor burn and ingrown hairs.

Straight razor: hold at a shallow angle (about 30 degrees) and stretch the skin taut; stroke with light pressure and rinse the blade frequently.

A honed and stropped razor has a smooth, keen edge; a dull blade drags and nicks, so it must be replaced or re-honed.

Beard design follows face shape: fuller sides balance a narrow face, while shorter sides slim a round face; the neckline sits about one finger-width above the Adam's apple.

After shaving, apply a soothing astringent or toner and a moisturizer; alcohol-based products may sting freshly shaved skin.

Contraindications for shaving include acne lesions, cold sores, moles, and ingrown hairs; shaving over them can spread infection or cause injury.

Single-use razor blades and disposable towels must be discarded after each client; reusable razors are cleaned and disinfected per label directions.

The pH scale runs 0-14; hair is naturally acidic (about 4.5-5.5), and chemical services raise pH to swell the cuticle and allow penetration.

Permanent hair color uses an aniline derivative dye plus hydrogen peroxide developer; the developer lifts natural pigment and deposits the new color inside the cortex.

Developer volumes: 10 volume (3 percent) deposits only, 20 volume (6 percent) lifts 1-2 levels, 30 volume (9 percent) lifts 2-3 levels, and 40 volume (12 percent) lifts 3-4 levels.

Semipermanent color deposits without lifting and fades over several shampoos; temporary color coats the cuticle and washes out in one shampoo.

Lightening (bleach) removes pigment; the process stops at the desired level, and toner is applied afterward to neutralize unwanted warmth.

Patch test for color: apply product behind the ear or inner elbow 24-48 hours before the service and check for redness or swelling.

A strand test determines processing time, developer strength, and expected result on the client's specific hair.

Relaxers and permanent waves break and reform disulfide bonds; a neutralizer or neutralizing shampoo stops the chemical action and restores pH.

The skin has three main layers: epidermis (outer, avascular), dermis (contains nerves, glands, and blood vessels), and subcutaneous (fat) layer.

The epidermis's outermost layer is the stratum corneum, composed of flattened, keratinized cells that provide the barrier.

The dermis contains collagen (strength) and elastin (elasticity) fibers, along with sebaceous glands, sweat glands, and hair follicles.

The hair follicle is a tube-like depression in the skin; the hair bulb at its base contains the matrix where cells divide and hair grows.

The sebaceous gland secretes sebum, which lubricates skin and hair; overactive sebum is associated with oily scalp and acne.

The arrector pili muscle attaches to the follicle and contracts in cold or emotion, causing goose bumps.

The three main layers of the hair shaft are the cuticle (outer protective scales), cortex (bulk and pigment), and medulla (central core).

Bones of the skull relevant to barbering include the frontal, parietal, temporal, occipital, and zygomatic (cheekbone) bones.

Alabama barbering is regulated by the Alabama Board of Barbering and Cosmetology; a license is required to practice or operate a shop.

A shop license and individual licenses must be displayed in plain view at the establishment.

Alabama requires barber licenses to be renewed on a set cycle; practicing on an expired license is a violation subject to penalty.

Sanitation requirements include approved disinfectants, covered waste containers, and clean towels for each client; inspectors may enter during business hours.

Recordkeeping: keep client service records and chemical product SDS on file; retain records as required by the Board.

Business basics: price of a service = cost of supplies + labor + overhead + profit; a markup is applied to product cost to set retail price.

A booth renter pays rent for space and operates as an independent business, while an employee works under the shop owner's direction and payroll.

Client consultation should document allergies, prior chemical services, medications, and desired result before service begins.

Sanitizing reduces pathogens on surfaces to a safe level; disinfection destroys most pathogens on nonporous implements; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.

An EPA-registered hospital disinfectant with a tuberculocidal claim is required for items that contact blood or body fluids; quats are used for general surface disinfection.

Blood and body-fluid spills: wear gloves, absorb with disposable towel, clean with detergent, disinfect with EPA hospital disinfectant, and dispose of materials in a sealed bag.

Implements must be cleaned of debris, then completely immersed in disinfectant for the label's contact time (commonly 10 minutes) before reuse.

Porous items that contact blood or body fluids (towels, cotton, neck strips) are single-use and must be discarded, never disinfected and reused.

Electrical tools: unplug before cleaning, keep motor and cords free of water and hair, and inspect cords for fraying; damaged cords are removed from service.

Hand washing uses soap and warm running water with friction for at least 20 seconds; an alcohol-based hand sanitizer is not a substitute when hands are visibly soiled.

Material Safety Data Sheets (SDS) must be kept on site for every chemical product and be accessible to workers.

Hair is roughly 90 percent protein (keratin); the cortex provides strength, elasticity, and pigment, while the medulla is the innermost layer and may be absent in fine hair.

The hair growth cycle: anagen (active growth, years), catagen (transition, weeks), and telogen (resting/shedding, months); normal daily shedding is about 50-100 hairs.

Scalp types are classified as normal, dry, oily, or combination; treatment selection follows the observed condition, not the client's preference.

A scalp analysis is performed before a treatment; contraindications include abrasions, open lesions, recent chemical burns, and contagious conditions such as ringworm or lice.

Shampoo pH: lower pH (acid-balanced, ~4.5-5.5) smooths the cuticle; higher-alkaline shampoos swell the cuticle and are used for deep cleansing.

Conditioners work by depositing on the cuticle, lowering friction and improving combability; protein treatments temporarily fill gaps in damaged, porous hair.

Hair elasticity test: a wet strand should stretch and return; hair that snaps immediately lacks elasticity and signals over-processing.

Porosity test: hair that absorbs water quickly is highly porous (damaged cuticle); hair that repels water is low porosity and resists moisture.

The four basic haircut forms are solid (one length), graduated, layered, and uniform (same length throughout); each produces a distinct silhouette.

Elevation (projection) is the angle at which hair is held from the head; 0 degrees builds weight, 45 degrees graduates, 90 degrees layers, and 180 degrees removes the most weight.

Distribution describes where hair is directed relative to its section: natural falling, shifted, or perpendicular.

A guide (guideline) is the first cut strand that establishes length; a stationary guide does not move, while a traveling guide moves with each section.

Blunt or club cutting creates a strong, solid perimeter line; point cutting and slide cutting soften weight and texturize ends.

Cross-checking means cutting the same area from a different direction to verify balance and evenness.

The apex is the highest point of the head; the parietal ridge is the widest curve, and the occipital bone marks the curve at the back of the skull.

Blow-dry styling: rough-dry to about 80 percent, direct airflow from scalp to ends along the cuticle, and use a nozzle for control; thermal tools should be set according to hair texture and condition.

Shaving lather softens the hair and provides glide; wet the beard area with warm water before lathering to soften keratin.

Shave in the direction of hair growth (with the grain) to reduce irritation; against-the-grain passes increase the risk of razor burn and ingrown hairs.

Straight razor: hold at a shallow angle (about 30 degrees) and stretch the skin taut; stroke with light pressure and rinse the blade frequently.

A honed and stropped razor has a smooth, keen edge; a dull blade drags and nicks, so it must be replaced or re-honed.

Beard design follows face shape: fuller sides balance a narrow face, while shorter sides slim a round face; the neckline sits about one finger-width above the Adam's apple.

After shaving, apply a soothing astringent or toner and a moisturizer; alcohol-based products may sting freshly shaved skin.

Contraindications for shaving include acne lesions, cold sores, moles, and ingrown hairs; shaving over them can spread infection or cause injury.

Single-use razor blades and disposable towels must be discarded after each client; reusable razors are cleaned and disinfected per label directions.

The pH scale runs 0-14; hair is naturally acidic (about 4.5-5.5), and chemical services raise pH to swell the cuticle and allow penetration.

Permanent hair color uses an aniline derivative dye plus hydrogen peroxide developer; the developer lifts natural pigment and deposits the new color inside the cortex.

Developer volumes: 10 volume (3 percent) deposits only, 20 volume (6 percent) lifts 1-2 levels, 30 volume (9 percent) lifts 2-3 levels, and 40 volume (12 percent) lifts 3-4 levels.

Semipermanent color deposits without lifting and fades over several shampoos; temporary color coats the cuticle and washes out in one shampoo.

Lightening (bleach) removes pigment; the process stops at the desired level, and toner is applied afterward to neutralize unwanted warmth.

Patch test for color: apply product behind the ear or inner elbow 24-48 hours before the service and check for redness or swelling.

A strand test determines processing time, developer strength, and expected result on the client's specific hair.

Relaxers and permanent waves break and reform disulfide bonds; a neutralizer or neutralizing shampoo stops the chemical action and restores pH.

The skin has three main layers: epidermis (outer, avascular), dermis (contains nerves, glands, and blood vessels), and subcutaneous (fat) layer.

The epidermis's outermost layer is the stratum corneum, composed of flattened, keratinized cells that provide the barrier.

The dermis contains collagen (strength) and elastin (elasticity) fibers, along with sebaceous glands, sweat glands, and hair follicles.

The hair follicle is a tube-like depression in the skin; the hair bulb at its base contains the matrix where cells divide and hair grows.

The sebaceous gland secretes sebum, which lubricates skin and hair; overactive sebum is associated with oily scalp and acne.

The arrector pili muscle attaches to the follicle and contracts in cold or emotion, causing goose bumps.

The three main layers of the hair shaft are the cuticle (outer protective scales), cortex (bulk and pigment), and medulla (central core).

Bones of the skull relevant to barbering include the frontal, parietal, temporal, occipital, and zygomatic (cheekbone) bones.

Alabama barbering is regulated by the Alabama Board of Barbering and Cosmetology; a license is required to practice or operate a shop.

A shop license and individual licenses must be displayed in plain view at the establishment.

Alabama requires barber licenses to be renewed on a set cycle; practicing on an expired license is a violation subject to penalty.

Sanitation requirements include approved disinfectants, covered waste containers, and clean towels for each client; inspectors may enter during business hours.

Recordkeeping: keep client service records and chemical product SDS on file; retain records as required by the Board.

Business basics: price of a service = cost of supplies + labor + overhead + profit; a markup is applied to product cost to set retail price.

A booth renter pays rent for space and operates as an independent business, while an employee works under the shop owner's direction and payroll.

Client consultation should document allergies, prior chemical services, medications, and desired result before service begins.