Hair and Scalp Care and Treatments
What to know
Candidates must distinguish hair structure (cuticle, cortex, medulla) from scalp conditions and choose treatments accordingly. The cuticle is the protective outer layer; the cortex gives strength, elasticity, and color; the medulla is the innermost core, often absent in fine hair. Hair analysis-porosity, elasticity, density, texture-drives treatment choice. Porosity (ability to absorb moisture) is tested by feel and float; high porosity needs protein and moisture; low porosity resists moisture. Elasticity (stretch and return) indicates internal strength; poor elasticity means avoid strong chemicals.
Conditions and traps
- Dandruff (pityriasis) is a mild scalp flaking treated with medicated shampoo; seborrheic dermatitis is red, greasy, inflamed scaling and is a medical referral. Tinea capitis (ringworm) is contagious and must be referred-never treated in the shop.
- Pediculosis (lice) is contagious; stop service and refer.
- Traps: confusing dry scalp with dandruff; recommending a scalp massage over an inflamed or broken scalp; using heat with high-porosity or chemically treated hair; and treating a medical condition as a cosmetic one.
Rule of thumb
If the scalp is red, broken, swollen, oozing, or has a distinct ring or patchy hair loss, refer out. If it is dry, flaky, or oily without inflammation, treat cosmetically. Always drape and sanitize hands between clients.
Worked example
A client with relaxed hair reports breakage and feels rough, straw-like ends. Test elasticity: hair snaps instead of stretching. That signals loss of internal structure-recommend protein treatment and moisture, avoid further chemical services, and schedule a trim.