AR Esthetician cheat sheet
AR Esthetician · Keep the key ideas within reach.
Sanitation, Disinfection, and Safety Practices
Sanitation removes visible debris and reduces microbes on surfaces; disinfection kills most pathogenic organisms on nonporous implements; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.
An EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant labeled bactericidal, fungicidal, and virucidal is required for implements in Arkansas salons; follow the label's contact time exactly.
Implements must be cleaned of debris, rinsed, dried, then fully immersed in disinfectant; porous items (wood, foam, unsealed stone) cannot be disinfected and must be discarded or single-use.
Blood and body-fluid spills require gloves plus an EPA-registered tuberculocidal disinfectant or a 1:10 bleach dilution prepared fresh daily.
Hand washing with soap and running water for at least 20 seconds precedes and follows every client service; hand sanitizer is not a substitute for hand washing after visible contamination.
Porous nail files, buffers, and wax applicators are single-use; spatulas must never be re-dipped into the wax pot after touching skin.
A Material Safety Data Sheet (SDS) must be on file for every chemical product in the salon and be accessible to employees.
Electrical tools must be inspected for frayed cords and kept away from water; cords and plugs are checked before each use and damaged equipment is removed from service.
Skin Anatomy, Physiology, and Histology
Epidermis layers from deepest to surface: stratum germinativum (basale), stratum spinosum, stratum granulosum, stratum lucidum (palms/soles only), stratum corneum.
The dermis contains collagen (strength), elastin (elasticity), and glycosaminoglycans/hyaluronic acid (hydration); fibroblasts produce these fibers.
Subcutaneous tissue (hypodermis) is adipose and connective tissue that insulates, cushions, and stores energy.
Skin functions: protection, sensation, heat regulation, excretion, secretion, absorption, and vitamin D synthesis.
Melanocytes in the basal layer produce melanin; keratinocytes produce keratin and are the majority cell of the epidermis.
Sebaceous glands secrete sebum and are attached to hair follicles; sudoriferous (sweat) glands are eccrine (whole body, thermoregulation) or apocrine (axillae, genital area).
Skin pH averages about 4.5-5.5 (acid mantle); barrier lipids include ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids.
Fitzpatrick phototypes I-VI describe sun reactivity and predict risk of burning, hyperpigmentation, and sensitivity to treatments.
Skin Analysis and Skin Types/Conditions
Skin types: normal, dry (alipidic), oily (lipid), combination (oily T-zone with normal-to-dry cheeks), and sensitive.
Skin conditions are distinct from types and include dehydration, acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, aging, and sun damage; a type plus condition may coexist.
Analysis sequence: cleanse, observe under magnification and good lighting, palpate for texture and oiliness, then ask about sensitivities and medications.
The T-zone (forehead, nose, chin) is typically oilier than cheeks; oiliness is assessed by shine and tactile residue, not by pore size alone.
Dehydrated skin lacks water and shows fine lines and tightness; dry skin lacks oil and shows flaking and rough texture - they require different products.
Contraindications to facial treatment include open lesions, active cold sores, recent chemical peel or laser, sunburn, and undiagnosed rashes requiring medical referral.
Oily skin benefits from gel or foaming cleansers and oil-free hydration; dry skin benefits from creamy cleansers and emollient moisturizers.
Clients taking isotretinoin, retinoids, or blood thinners, or who are pregnant, require modified or deferred waxing and exfoliation services.
Facial Treatments and Client Services
Standard facial sequence: consultation and skin analysis, cleansing, exfoliation, steam or warm towel, extractions (if indicated), massage, mask, toner, moisturizer, sun protection.
Steam softens sebum and keratin for easier extraction; it is contraindicated for rosacea, sensitive skin, and clients with asthma or claustrophobia.
Massage movements follow the direction of muscle origin to insertion and generally move upward and outward; avoid pressure over bony areas and inflamed lesions.
Extractions should target only pustules and non-inflamed comedones; inflamed cysts, pustules with surrounding redness, and lesions of unknown origin are not extracted.
Mask selection depends on skin condition: clay/mud for oily and congested skin, hydrating gel or cream masks for dry and sensitive skin.
Every facial concludes with broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher; sun protection is applied after moisturizer.
Treatment room setup includes clean linens per client, sanitized implements, adequate lighting, and a consultation record documenting products used and client responses.
Contraindications for massage include fever, contagious skin disease, recent surgery, and acute inflammation in the treatment area.
Hair Removal (Waxing and Related Methods)
Hair growth phases: anagen (active growth, best waxing results), catagen (transition), telogen (resting/falling).
Hair must be at least 1/4 inch (about 6 mm) long for wax to grip; shorter hair is allowed to grow or trimmed only to a workable length.
Wax temperature is tested on the inner wrist or back of the hand before application; hot wax should feel warm, not burning.
Hard wax is applied against hair growth and removed in the direction of growth; soft wax strips are applied in the direction of growth and removed against it.
Waxing is contraindicated over varicose veins, moles, warts, inflamed or broken skin, sunburn, and areas treated with retinoids or recent peels.
Clients using isotretinoin must generally wait a minimum of six months after stopping before waxing; check the prescribing information and refer to the physician.
Double-dipping is prohibited - a fresh applicator is used each time wax contacts skin, and wax pots are not touched with used sticks.
Post-wax care: soothe with a mild product, avoid heat, friction, sun, and tight clothing for 24 hours, and advise no exfoliation for 24-48 hours.
Makeup Application and Eyelash/Eyebrow Services
Foundation shades are matched to the jawline and neck in natural light, then blended; undertone (warm, cool, neutral) matters more than depth alone.
Color theory: complementary colors neutralize - green cancels redness, orange/peach cancels blue-purple, and yellow cancels purple bruising.
Face shapes (oval, round, square, heart, diamond, oblong) are balanced with contour and highlight placement; oval is the reference shape.
Eyebrow design balances the face: the brow begins above the inner corner of the eye, arches above the outer edge of the iris, and ends at the outer corner of the eye.
Lash and brow tint patch tests are performed at least 24 hours before service; a negative result does not eliminate risk of later sensitization.
Lash extensions and lifts require isolated lashes, a client with eyes closed and taped down, and adhesive kept away from the eye itself; a fresh adhesive drop is used and replaced as it cures.
Sanitation for eye-area services: single-use applicators, disposable lash brushes, and disinfected tweezers; never share mascara or lash adhesive applicators between clients.
Contraindications for eye-area services include eye infections, conjunctivitis, styes, recent eye surgery, and known adhesive allergy.
Chemistry, Products, and Product Selection
pH scale 0-14: acidic below 7, neutral at 7, alkaline above 7; skin-friendly products are typically mildly acidic (about 4.5-5.5).
Surfactants clean by lowering surface tension; they have a hydrophilic (water-loving) head and a lipophilic (oil-loving) tail.
Emulsions combine oil and water with an emulsifier; oil-in-water (O/W) is lighter and water-in-oil (W/O) is richer and more occlusive.
Humectants attract water (glycerin, hyaluronic acid), emollients soften and smooth (oils, esters), and occlusives prevent water loss (petrolatum, dimethicone).
Alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic) exfoliate the surface; beta hydroxy acid (salicylic) is oil-soluble and penetrates pores.
Antioxidants such as vitamin C and vitamin E neutralize free radicals; vitamin C also supports collagen and brightening but is unstable and degrades with light and air.
Product label order lists ingredients by descending concentration down to 1%; below 1% order is not mandated.
Sun protection: SPF measures UVB protection; broad-spectrum labeling also covers UVA, and reapplication every two hours is advised with sun exposure.
Arkansas Cosmetology Law, Rules, and Regulations
The Arkansas State Board of Cosmetology and Barber Examiners licenses estheticians, cosmetologists, manicurists, and instructors and inspects salons.
Esthetician licenses require completion of board-approved training hours and passing a board-approved written and practical examination; verify current hour requirements directly with the Board because they change.
Salon licenses are issued per establishment and are not transferable to a new owner or location; a new license application is required.
All implements and equipment must be cleaned and disinfected per Board rules, and single-use items must be discarded after one client.
A licensee may not perform services outside the scope of the license held; medical or invasive procedures are outside esthetician scope.
Continuing education and license renewal cycles are set by Board rule; confirm current renewal dates and CE hour requirements with the Board.
Display of the license in the salon and availability of Board rules and sanitation information are required; inspectors may enter during business hours.
Client records and consent documentation should be retained per Board rule and kept confidential; verify current retention periods with the Board.
Professional Ethics, Client Communication, and Business Practices
Informed consent requires explaining the service, products, risks, expected results, and alternatives before the client agrees.
Confidentiality covers health history, contact information, and images; client photos require written permission and specify intended use.
Scope of practice: refer clients with suspected skin cancer, infection, or undiagnosed conditions to a physician rather than treating them.
Consultation documentation should record skin analysis, products used, patch test results, and client statements; contemporaneous notes are stronger evidence than later recollection.
Pricing and service policies (cancellations, late arrivals, refunds) should be in writing and disclosed before the appointment.
Professional boundaries include declining services that are unsafe, refusing to diagnose, and avoiding dual relationships that compromise objectivity.
Communication skills: open-ended questions, active listening, paraphrasing to confirm understanding, and avoiding medical claims in marketing.
Arkansas sales tax and business licensing obligations apply to retail sales and salon operations; verify current rates and registration requirements with the Arkansas Department of Finance and Administration.
Professional Ethics, Client Communication, and Business Practices
Informed consent requires explaining the service, products, risks, expected results, and alternatives before the client agrees.
Confidentiality covers health history, contact information, and images; client photos require written permission and specify intended use.
Scope of practice: refer clients with suspected skin cancer, infection, or undiagnosed conditions to a physician rather than treating them.
Consultation documentation should record skin analysis, products used, patch test results, and client statements; contemporaneous notes are stronger evidence than later recollection.
Pricing and service policies (cancellations, late arrivals, refunds) should be in writing and disclosed before the appointment.
Professional boundaries include declining services that are unsafe, refusing to diagnose, and avoiding dual relationships that compromise objectivity.
Communication skills: open-ended questions, active listening, paraphrasing to confirm understanding, and avoiding medical claims in marketing.
Arkansas sales tax and business licensing obligations apply to retail sales and salon operations; verify current rates and registration requirements with the Arkansas Department of Finance and Administration.