Hair Cutting and Shaping
Foundations
Cutting is geometry plus tension. Understand the four foundational forms: solid (one length), graduated, layered and increased layered. Learn the key terms: elevation (the angle at which hair is held from the head), distribution (where hair is directed relative to its section), projection, sectioning, tension and overdirection. A uniform layer uses 90-degree elevation; a graduation uses elevation below 90 degrees; a solid form uses zero elevation.
Tools and technique
Scissors, thinning shears, razors and clippers each behave differently. Blunt cutting creates a clean line; point cutting softens; slide cutting removes weight. Keep blades sharp, cut with the correct finger position, and palm the scissors when not cutting. Section hair cleanly and work methodically so you can check balance.
Men's and women's styles
Men's cutting often uses clippers with guards, fading and blending, and scissor-over-comb. Women's styles may emphasise face shape, fringe work and texturising. In both, cross-check the cut from front, sides and back, and confirm the length with the client before the first cut.
Traps in questions
Questions frequently confuse elevation with distribution, or ask which form creates weight. Remember: graduation builds weight, layering removes it. Do not cut past the agreed length, and never cut curly or wavy hair dry unless the service calls for it and the client agrees, because shrinkage changes the result.
Worked example
A client wants more volume at the crown. Rule of thumb: weight where you want it, length where you don't. Shorter layers at the crown and longer lengths underneath create lift.