Group B: Eyebrows
Anatomy and design
Eyebrow work requires understanding the brow's muscle layer, hair growth direction, and the underlying bone. Design principles include facial symmetry, the golden ratio, and the client's natural hair pattern. Know the three classic landmark points (start, arch, tail) and how to adapt them to different face shapes. A trap is applying a rigid template rather than mapping to the individual face.
Techniques
Understand the difference between hair-stroke and powder or ombre techniques, and when each suits a client. Hair strokes require matching natural growth direction; powder gives density. Examiners may test needle configuration and depth. Pigment should sit superficially in the papillary dermis for crisp strokes.
Colour selection
Match pigment to skin undertone, not just hair colour. Cool undertones suit cooler browns; warm undertones suit warmer browns. A frequent trap is choosing pigment based on the client's dyed hair rather than their natural brow hair and skin.
Contraindications and aftercare
Know relative and absolute contraindications for brow work, including recent cosmetic injectables near the area and active skin conditions. Aftercare includes avoiding moisture, sun and makeup during healing, and explaining the expected flaking phase.
Worked rule of thumb
Map the brow to the client's bone structure and natural hair direction, then choose pigment using skin undertone plus natural brow hair, not hair dye.