AZ Esthetician study materials
AZ Esthetician study resources

AZ Esthetician cheat sheet

AZ Esthetician · Keep the key ideas within reach.

Quick reference

Safety, Sanitation, and Infection Control

  • Sanitation reduces the number of microorganisms on surfaces; disinfection destroys most pathogens except bacterial spores; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.

  • Nonporous implements follow a fixed order: wash with soap and water, rinse, dry completely, then immerse fully in an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant for the full label contact time.

  • An EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant carries bactericidal, virucidal, fungicidal, and tuberculocidal claims; a product without those claims is not a substitute.

  • For a blood or body-fluid exposure: don gloves, clean the surface with a 1:10 dilution of 5.25% sodium hypochlorite or a hospital disinfectant, discard contaminated porous items, then wash hands.

  • Porous items that absorb liquid (cotton, gauze, sponges, wooden spatulas and sticks, lip and eye pencils) cannot be disinfected and are used once and discarded.

  • Double-dipping means reinserting a used spatula or applicator into a product container; use a clean disposable spatula for every removal from the jar.

  • Hands are washed with soap and water for at least 20 seconds before and after every client and after removing gloves.

  • Every professional product in the salon requires a Safety Data Sheet kept on file and accessible to staff.

Quick reference

Skin Sciences: Anatomy, Physiology, and Histology

  • Epidermis, superficial to deep: stratum corneum, stratum lucidum, stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum, stratum basale (memory phrase: Come Let's Get Sun Burnt).

  • Dermis has two layers: the thin papillary layer with capillaries and touch receptors, and the thick reticular layer of dense collagen and elastin.

  • The acid mantle is a film of sebum and sweat with a pH of roughly 4.5 to 5.5; alkaline products disrupt it and increase moisture loss and bacterial growth.

  • Average epidermal cell turnover is about 28 days; turnover slows with age and photodamage, producing a duller, thinner surface.

  • Fitzpatrick phototypes I to VI are assigned by burn-versus-tan response; type I always burns and never tans, type VI rarely burns and tans deeply.

  • UVB has a shorter wavelength and is the primary burning ray; UVA is longer, penetrates deeper, and drives photoaging.

  • Facial bones include the frontal, zygomatic, maxillae, mandible, nasal, temporal, and parietal bones; the mandible is the only movable facial bone.

  • Key facial muscles are the frontalis (forehead lift), corrugator (frown), orbicularis oculi (eye closure), orbicularis oris (lip purse), and masseter (chewing).

Quick reference

Skin Analysis, Disorders, and Facial Treatments

  • Skin type is structural and largely fixed (normal, dry, oily, combination, sensitive); skin condition is changeable (dehydration, acne, hyperpigmentation, aging) and both must be recorded.

  • Primary lesions are the initial change: macule, papule, pustule, vesicle, bulla, wheal, nodule, cyst. Secondary lesions are evolved: scale, crust, excoriation, fissure, scar, atrophy, ulcer.

  • Absolute contraindications to facial service include active herpes simplex, impetigo, conjunctivitis, ringworm, warts, open lesions, and sunburn; service is deferred.

  • Any mole or lesion that is asymmetric, has irregular borders, varied color, or is changing or bleeding is not treated and is referred to a physician.

  • Massage movements are effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (tapping), friction (rubbing), and vibration; effleurage opens and closes the sequence.

  • Extraction is limited to open comedones after softening with warm steam; pustules, cysts, and inflamed lesions are never squeezed.

  • Clay masks absorb excess oil for oily and combination skin, gel masks hydrate, and paraffin warms dry or mature skin; heat is avoided on rosacea.

  • Electrical devices are contraindicated with pacemakers, pregnancy, epilepsy, metal implants, and recent cosmetic injectables.

Quick reference

Hair Removal Techniques (Waxing, Tweezing, Depilatories)

  • Strip wax is applied thin and in the direction of hair growth, then removed against the direction of growth while the skin is held taut.

  • Wax temperature is verified on the inner wrist or the professional's own skin before it touches the client; hot wax burns are a leading liability claim.

  • The hair cycle is anagen (active growth), catagen (transition), and telogen (rest); anagen hairs are removed most effectively and waxing is repeated every 3 to 6 weeks.

  • A patch test on a discreet area at least 24 hours ahead is required for wax, depilatory, and any tint or adhesive product.

  • Waxing is postponed over isotretinoin use and for several months after, over recent retinoid or acid use, sunburn, varicose veins, moles, broken skin, and active infection.

  • Never double-dip the wax stick; use a fresh disposable spatula or stick per application and wear gloves throughout the service.

  • Depilatories use calcium thioglycolate to dissolve hair keratin at the surface, are timed per manufacturer instructions, and are not applied to broken skin or close to the eyes.

  • Aftercare after waxing: no sun, heat, friction, or tight clothing for 24 to 48 hours, and no exfoliation over freshly waxed skin.

Quick reference

Makeup, Lash, and Brow Services

  • Brow mapping landmarks: the brow starts above the inner corner of the eye, the arch peaks above the outer edge of the iris, and the tail ends on a diagonal from the nostril past the outer eye corner.

  • A patch test 24 to 48 hours in advance is required for brow and lash tint and for lash extension adhesive.

  • Mascara and liquid eye products are never shared or pumped; a disposable wand is used for each client and product is not returned to the container.

  • Lip and eye pencils are porous and cannot be disinfected, so they are sharpened and sprayed or, better, applied with a clean spatula and disposable brush.

  • Color theory rule: complementary colors neutralize, so green corrects redness, peach corrects blue-toned undereye darkness, and yellow corrects purple bruising.

  • Undertone is classified as warm (yellow, peach, golden), cool (pink, blue), or neutral; foundation shade must match undertone as well as depth.

  • During lash extension service the client's eyes stay closed, adhesive fumes are ventilated, and any burning or watering ends the service.

Quick reference

Client Consultation, Communication, and Professional Ethics

  • The intake form captures medical history, medications, allergies, pregnancy, prior cosmetic treatments, and current skin products before any service.

  • Informed consent is documented after the client is told the procedure, expected outcome, possible risks, and alternatives.

  • Estheticians do not diagnose; any suspected disease or disorder is described objectively and referred to a physician.

  • Open-ended questions ('What concerns you most about your skin?') gather more information than yes/no questions.

  • Client information is confidential and is not discussed with third parties without written permission.

  • The client record documents date, service, products used, skin observations, consent, and any reaction so results are repeatable and traceable.

  • No guaranteed outcomes are promised; language is descriptive ('aims to improve hydration') rather than absolute.

Quick reference

Arizona Cosmetology Law, Board Rules, and Salon Business Practices

  • The Arizona State Board of Cosmetology licenses estheticians, salons, and schools, adopts sanitation rules, and investigates complaints; statutes sit in A.R.S. Title 32, Chapter 5, with rules in A.A.C. Title 4, Chapter 10.

  • A current license must be displayed in plain view at the establishment or workstation where services are performed.

  • Only a currently licensed person may perform esthetic services for compensation; unlicensed practice exposes both the worker and the salon to penalties.

  • Esthetician licensure in Arizona requires completion of the Board-required esthetics training hours plus passing the state examination.

  • Esthetician scope includes skin care and facial treatments, makeup application, hair removal by wax, tweezers, and depilatories, brow and lash tinting, and application of temporary lashes.

  • A booth renter is an independent contractor who sets their own schedule, supplies, and taxes, while an employee is directed and supplied by the salon.

  • Board representatives may enter and inspect a licensed establishment during business hours to verify sanitation and licensing compliance.

  • Advertising and service menus must be accurate and not misleading about services, credentials, or results.