AZ Esthetician cheat sheet
AZ Esthetician · Keep the key ideas within reach.
Safety, Sanitation, and Infection Control
Sanitation reduces the number of microorganisms on surfaces; disinfection destroys most pathogens except bacterial spores; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.
Nonporous implements follow a fixed order: wash with soap and water, rinse, dry completely, then immerse fully in an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant for the full label contact time.
An EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant carries bactericidal, virucidal, fungicidal, and tuberculocidal claims; a product without those claims is not a substitute.
For a blood or body-fluid exposure: don gloves, clean the surface with a 1:10 dilution of 5.25% sodium hypochlorite or a hospital disinfectant, discard contaminated porous items, then wash hands.
Porous items that absorb liquid (cotton, gauze, sponges, wooden spatulas and sticks, lip and eye pencils) cannot be disinfected and are used once and discarded.
Double-dipping means reinserting a used spatula or applicator into a product container; use a clean disposable spatula for every removal from the jar.
Hands are washed with soap and water for at least 20 seconds before and after every client and after removing gloves.
Every professional product in the salon requires a Safety Data Sheet kept on file and accessible to staff.
Skin Sciences: Anatomy, Physiology, and Histology
Epidermis, superficial to deep: stratum corneum, stratum lucidum, stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum, stratum basale (memory phrase: Come Let's Get Sun Burnt).
Dermis has two layers: the thin papillary layer with capillaries and touch receptors, and the thick reticular layer of dense collagen and elastin.
The acid mantle is a film of sebum and sweat with a pH of roughly 4.5 to 5.5; alkaline products disrupt it and increase moisture loss and bacterial growth.
Average epidermal cell turnover is about 28 days; turnover slows with age and photodamage, producing a duller, thinner surface.
Fitzpatrick phototypes I to VI are assigned by burn-versus-tan response; type I always burns and never tans, type VI rarely burns and tans deeply.
UVB has a shorter wavelength and is the primary burning ray; UVA is longer, penetrates deeper, and drives photoaging.
Facial bones include the frontal, zygomatic, maxillae, mandible, nasal, temporal, and parietal bones; the mandible is the only movable facial bone.
Key facial muscles are the frontalis (forehead lift), corrugator (frown), orbicularis oculi (eye closure), orbicularis oris (lip purse), and masseter (chewing).
Skin Analysis, Disorders, and Facial Treatments
Skin type is structural and largely fixed (normal, dry, oily, combination, sensitive); skin condition is changeable (dehydration, acne, hyperpigmentation, aging) and both must be recorded.
Primary lesions are the initial change: macule, papule, pustule, vesicle, bulla, wheal, nodule, cyst. Secondary lesions are evolved: scale, crust, excoriation, fissure, scar, atrophy, ulcer.
Absolute contraindications to facial service include active herpes simplex, impetigo, conjunctivitis, ringworm, warts, open lesions, and sunburn; service is deferred.
Any mole or lesion that is asymmetric, has irregular borders, varied color, or is changing or bleeding is not treated and is referred to a physician.
Massage movements are effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (tapping), friction (rubbing), and vibration; effleurage opens and closes the sequence.
Extraction is limited to open comedones after softening with warm steam; pustules, cysts, and inflamed lesions are never squeezed.
Clay masks absorb excess oil for oily and combination skin, gel masks hydrate, and paraffin warms dry or mature skin; heat is avoided on rosacea.
Electrical devices are contraindicated with pacemakers, pregnancy, epilepsy, metal implants, and recent cosmetic injectables.
Hair Removal Techniques (Waxing, Tweezing, Depilatories)
Strip wax is applied thin and in the direction of hair growth, then removed against the direction of growth while the skin is held taut.
Wax temperature is verified on the inner wrist or the professional's own skin before it touches the client; hot wax burns are a leading liability claim.
The hair cycle is anagen (active growth), catagen (transition), and telogen (rest); anagen hairs are removed most effectively and waxing is repeated every 3 to 6 weeks.
A patch test on a discreet area at least 24 hours ahead is required for wax, depilatory, and any tint or adhesive product.
Waxing is postponed over isotretinoin use and for several months after, over recent retinoid or acid use, sunburn, varicose veins, moles, broken skin, and active infection.
Never double-dip the wax stick; use a fresh disposable spatula or stick per application and wear gloves throughout the service.
Depilatories use calcium thioglycolate to dissolve hair keratin at the surface, are timed per manufacturer instructions, and are not applied to broken skin or close to the eyes.
Aftercare after waxing: no sun, heat, friction, or tight clothing for 24 to 48 hours, and no exfoliation over freshly waxed skin.
Makeup, Lash, and Brow Services
Brow mapping landmarks: the brow starts above the inner corner of the eye, the arch peaks above the outer edge of the iris, and the tail ends on a diagonal from the nostril past the outer eye corner.
A patch test 24 to 48 hours in advance is required for brow and lash tint and for lash extension adhesive.
Mascara and liquid eye products are never shared or pumped; a disposable wand is used for each client and product is not returned to the container.
Lip and eye pencils are porous and cannot be disinfected, so they are sharpened and sprayed or, better, applied with a clean spatula and disposable brush.
Color theory rule: complementary colors neutralize, so green corrects redness, peach corrects blue-toned undereye darkness, and yellow corrects purple bruising.
Undertone is classified as warm (yellow, peach, golden), cool (pink, blue), or neutral; foundation shade must match undertone as well as depth.
During lash extension service the client's eyes stay closed, adhesive fumes are ventilated, and any burning or watering ends the service.
Client Consultation, Communication, and Professional Ethics
The intake form captures medical history, medications, allergies, pregnancy, prior cosmetic treatments, and current skin products before any service.
Informed consent is documented after the client is told the procedure, expected outcome, possible risks, and alternatives.
Estheticians do not diagnose; any suspected disease or disorder is described objectively and referred to a physician.
Open-ended questions ('What concerns you most about your skin?') gather more information than yes/no questions.
Client information is confidential and is not discussed with third parties without written permission.
The client record documents date, service, products used, skin observations, consent, and any reaction so results are repeatable and traceable.
No guaranteed outcomes are promised; language is descriptive ('aims to improve hydration') rather than absolute.
Arizona Cosmetology Law, Board Rules, and Salon Business Practices
The Arizona State Board of Cosmetology licenses estheticians, salons, and schools, adopts sanitation rules, and investigates complaints; statutes sit in A.R.S. Title 32, Chapter 5, with rules in A.A.C. Title 4, Chapter 10.
A current license must be displayed in plain view at the establishment or workstation where services are performed.
Only a currently licensed person may perform esthetic services for compensation; unlicensed practice exposes both the worker and the salon to penalties.
Esthetician licensure in Arizona requires completion of the Board-required esthetics training hours plus passing the state examination.
Esthetician scope includes skin care and facial treatments, makeup application, hair removal by wax, tweezers, and depilatories, brow and lash tinting, and application of temporary lashes.
A booth renter is an independent contractor who sets their own schedule, supplies, and taxes, while an employee is directed and supplied by the salon.
Board representatives may enter and inspect a licensed establishment during business hours to verify sanitation and licensing compliance.
Advertising and service menus must be accurate and not misleading about services, credentials, or results.