Barber License Exam (NIC) cheat sheet

Infection requires three elements: a pathogen, a susceptible host, and a portal of entry; breaking any link prevents transmission.

Bacteria are one-celled microorganisms; cocci are round, bacilli are rod-shaped, and spirilla are corkscrew-shaped.

Viruses survive only inside a host cell; they are not killed by antibiotics and resist many disinfectants unless the label lists virucidal activity.

Bloodborne pathogens of primary concern in barbering are hepatitis B, hepatitis C, and HIV, spread through blood or other body fluids.

Standard precautions treat all blood and body fluids as infectious; gloves are worn whenever contact with blood, broken skin, or mucous membrane is possible.

Disinfection kills most microorganisms on nonporous surfaces; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores and is required for items that penetrate skin.

An EPA-registered hospital disinfectant labeled bactericidal, virucidal, and fungicidal is the benchmark for implements that contact intact skin.

Porous items such as tissues, cotton, and neck strips are single-use and discarded; nonporous implements are cleaned of debris before immersion in disinfectant.

Pathogen transmission routes include direct contact, indirect contact via contaminated implements, airborne droplets, and vector-borne spread.

Hair is roughly 90 percent protein (keratin) by composition; the remainder is water, lipids, minerals, and pigment.

The hair shaft has three layers: cuticle (outer protective scales), cortex (bulk and pigment location), and medulla (central core, absent in fine hair).

The follicle shape determines curl: round follicles produce straight hair, oval follicles produce wavy hair, and elliptical or flat follicles produce curly or kinky hair.

The three growth phases are anagen (active growth, years), catagen (transition, weeks), and telogen (resting and shedding, about three months).

Normal scalp hair loss is about 50 to 100 hairs per day; sudden diffuse shedding often follows illness, stress, or hormonal change.

Scalp conditions that contraindicate chemical or heat services include open lesions, ringworm, impetigo, and severe dermatitis; refer to a physician.

Sebum from sebaceous glands lubricates hair and scalp; excess sebum contributes to oily scalp and can weigh down fine hair.

Shampoo selection follows scalp condition more than hair condition; conditioner is applied to midshaft and ends, not the scalp, for most clients.

Hair analysis by microscope or strand test predicts porosity and elasticity, which guide product choice and processing time.

Shaving direction: first pass with the grain for comfort, optional second pass across the grain; against the grain raises irritation and ingrown hair risk.

A lather or gel with a wet, warm towel preparation softens the hair and reduces friction and razor burn.

Razor angle of about 30 degrees from the skin with light, even strokes minimizes nicks and razor burn.

A fresh, clean blade is required for each client; razors and blades are single-use and disposed of in a sharps container.

Pseudofolliculitis barbae is inflammation from hair re-entering the skin, common in tightly curled hair; avoid close against-the-grain shaving.

Furuncles and carbuncles are bacterial infections of the follicle; do not shave over them and refer to a physician.

Hot towel application after shaving soothes and removes residue; astringent or witch hazel can close pores and reduce bacteria.

Beard and mustache trimming follows the natural growth pattern; trim against the direction of growth for a closer line.

Waxing and tweezing must avoid inflamed, sunburned, or recently exfoliated skin to prevent tearing and infection.

The four basic haircut forms are solid (one length), graduated (stacked), layered (uniform or increased), and men's clipper cuts with taper and fade.

Elevation is the angle at which hair is held from the head; 0 degrees builds weight, 45 degrees graduates, and 90 degrees or more layers.

A blunt or square cut creates a strong perimeter line; a razor or point cut softens ends and reduces weight.

Sectioning and subsectioning control accuracy; subsections should be no wider than the blade or clipper guard and no deeper than the head curvature allows.

Clipper guards number in eighths of an inch commonly; a #1 guard leaves about 1/8 inch, and a #2 guard about 1/4 inch.

Density, texture, porosity, and growth pattern determine which form suits a client; a cowlick cannot be cut away and must be worked with.

Blow-dry styling sets hair by lifting at the root for volume and directing air down the shaft for smoothness.

Thermal tools: flat irons and curling irons should be used on dry hair, with heat protectant, and kept moving to prevent thermal damage.

Facial shapes guide styling: add height for round faces, add width for long faces, and balance a strong jaw with volume at the crown.

The pH scale runs 0 to 14; hair and skin are about pH 4.5 to 5.5, and alkaline products raise the cuticle.

Permanent color uses an aniline derivative dye plus hydrogen peroxide developer; the developer lifts natural pigment and develops the dye.

Developer volumes: 10 volume (3 percent) deposits, 20 volume (6 percent) lifts 1 to 2 levels, 30 volume (9 percent) lifts 2 to 3, 40 volume (12 percent) lifts 3 to 4.

The law of color: primary colors are red, yellow, and blue; secondary colors are orange, green, and violet; complementary colors neutralize each other.

Levels range from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde); tone describes warm, cool, or neutral cast and is not the same as level.

A patch test checks allergy to color or lightener and is performed 24 to 48 hours before service; a strand test predicts timing and outcome.

Relaxers and permanent waves break and reform disulfide bonds; thioglycolate is the common reducing agent, and neutralizer or relaxer fixative restores bonds.

Hydroxide relaxers are lye (sodium hydroxide) and no-lye (calcium hydroxide, guanidine, lithium); no-lye formulas are not necessarily gentler.

Do not apply chemical services over metallic salts, henna compounds, or hair with visible breakage; these can cause unpredictable or damaging reactions.

The skin has three layers: epidermis (outer, avascular), dermis (connective tissue, nerves, vessels, glands), and subcutaneous (fat and insulation).

The integumentary system includes skin, hair, nails, and glands, and serves as a barrier, temperature regulator, and sensory organ.

Bones of the skull relevant to barbering include the frontal, parietal, temporal, occipital, zygomatic, and mandible.

Muscles of the face and head include the frontalis (raises brow), temporalis (chews), masseter (chews), orbicularis oculi (closes eye), and platysma (neck).

The facial nerve (cranial nerve VII) controls facial expression; the trigeminal nerve (V) provides facial sensation.

Blood supply to the head comes mainly from the common carotid arteries, branching into the internal and external carotid; the external supplies the face and scalp.

The lymphatic system drains tissue fluid; lymph nodes of the head and neck include submental, submandibular, cervical, and occipital nodes.

Sudoriferous glands produce sweat for temperature control; sebaceous glands secrete sebum and are attached to hair follicles.

Nail anatomy: the nail plate covers the nail bed, the lunula is the pale half-moon, and the cuticle seals the nail base against infection.

Licensure is granted by the state board; scope of practice, sanitation rules, and renewal requirements are defined in state statute and board rules.

Licenses are typically displayed at the workstation or establishment; practicing on an expired license is unlawful and may carry fines.

Implements are categorized as single-use (discard), multi-use nonporous (clean and disinfect), and items requiring sterilization.

Blood spills are cleaned with gloves, absorbed, and the area disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital disinfectant labeled for bloodborne pathogens.

Electrical safety: do not use tools with frayed cords, do not immerse electrical equipment in water, and keep cords away from water sources.

Chemical safety requires reading the SDS (Safety Data Sheet), storing products in labeled original containers, and following manufacturer mixing directions.

Client records include service history, patch and strand test results, and any adverse reactions; confidentiality applies to these records.

Ergonomics: adjust client chair and stool height, keep wrists neutral, and alternate tasks to reduce repetitive strain.

Professional ethics include informed consent, honest disclosure of expected results, and referral to a physician for conditions outside scope.