CO Cosmetology flashcards
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32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.
- Anagen phase
- Active growth stage of the hair cycle, lasting roughly two to six years on the scalp. About 85 to 90 percent of scalp hairs are in anagen at any time.
- Catagen phase
- Short transitional stage of the hair cycle lasting about two to three weeks. Growth stops, the follicle shrinks, and the hair detaches from the blood supply.
- Telogen phase
- Resting stage of the hair cycle lasting about three months. The hair stays in the follicle without growing, then sheds as a new anagen hair pushes it out.
- Clipper-over-comb
- Cutting technique where the comb lifts hair away from the scalp and the clipper removes only hair protruding through the comb teeth. Used for blending short sides and nape areas.
- Guide line
- The first cut that establishes length and shape for the rest of the haircut. All other sections are measured against it, so it must be placed accurately.
- Tapered neckline
- A neckline finished so hair gradually shortens toward the natural hairline rather than ending in a hard line. It grows out more cleanly than a blunt neckline.
- Disulfide bond
- Strong chemical bond between sulfur atoms in keratin that gives hair its shape and strength. Permanent waves and relaxers break and rebuild these bonds.
- Thioglycolate
- Reducing agent used in alkaline permanent waves at about pH 9 to 9.5. It breaks disulfide bonds so hair can be reshaped around a rod.
- Neutralizer
- Product applied after a permanent wave to rebuild disulfide bonds in their new position. Sodium bromate and hydrogen peroxide are common active ingredients.
- Underlying pigment
- The warm tones exposed when hair is lightened, appearing in sequence red, red-orange, orange, orange-yellow, yellow, then pale yellow. Predicts the final result.
- Hair color level
- Number from one to ten describing lightness, with one as black and ten as lightest blonde. Tone, such as warm or cool, is described separately from level.
- Hair porosity
- The cuticle's ability to absorb and retain moisture. High porosity absorbs quickly and releases quickly; low porosity resists absorption and may need heat.
- Sodium hydroxide relaxer
- Lye-based straightener that breaks disulfide bonds at high pH. Requires a protective base cream and thorough rinsing before neutralizer is applied.
- Sanitize versus disinfect
- Sanitizing reduces bacteria on surfaces, while disinfecting destroys most microorganisms on hard nonporous items. Sterilizing destroys all microbial life and is used for skin-penetrating tools.
- Fitzpatrick scale
- Six-category classification of skin's response to ultraviolet light. Types one and two always burn; types five and six rarely burn and carry higher hyperpigmentation risk.
- Stratum corneum
- Outermost epidermal layer of flattened, keratinized cells. It limits water loss and absorption, and most exfoliation targets its dead surface cells.
- Papillary dermis
- Upper layer of the dermis directly beneath the epidermis. It contains capillaries that nourish the epidermis and fine collagen and elastin fibers.
- Free acid
- Portion of an acid that is unbound and available to exfoliate skin. Lower product pH increases free acid, so strength depends on pH as well as concentration.
- Comedone
- A plugged follicle. Open comedones are blackheads with darkened surface; closed comedones are whiteheads sealed under the skin. Only non-inflamed ones should be extracted.
- Lymphatic drainage
- Light, superficial massage strokes moving fluid from the face outward and downward toward the neck and clavicle nodes. Deep pressure is avoided in this technique.
- Broad-spectrum SPF
- Labeling that indicates protection against both UVB and UVA radiation. SPF alone measures UVB only, so broad-spectrum claims add separate UVA coverage.
- Nail matrix
- Living tissue at the base of the nail that produces the nail plate. Injury to the matrix permanently alters the shape and thickness of the growing nail.
- Eponychium
- Living skin at the base of the nail plate, often called the cuticle. It seals the nail base against infection and should be pushed back gently, not cut.
- Hyponychium
- Living tissue under the free edge of the nail plate. It seals the nail bed from debris and bacteria and is easily damaged by aggressive cleaning under the nail.
- Lunula
- Whitish half-moon visible at the nail base. It is the portion of the matrix showing through the nail plate and is most prominent on the thumbs.
- Nail plate thickness
- The nail plate is about 0.1 millimeter thick at the free edge and roughly fifty percent harder than skin, so it resists cutting and absorbs little water quickly.
- Fingernail growth rate
- Fingernails grow about 3.5 millimeters per month, while toenails grow about 1.6 millimeters per month. Growth slows with age and in cold weather.
- Squoval shape
- Nail shape with a square free edge and rounded corners. It reduces corner snagging while keeping the strength of a straight edge.
- Single-use implements
- Porous items such as files, buffers, and wooden sticks that cannot be adequately disinfected. They are discarded after one client rather than reused.
- Liquid-to-powder ratio
- Proportion of monomer to polymer in acrylic application. It controls cure speed, strength, and consistency; too wet product shrinks and too dry product is brittle.
- Gel polish removal
- File the top coat, wrap the nail with acetone-saturated cotton and foil for ten to fifteen minutes, then gently push off softened product. Scraping hard damages the plate.
- Nail psoriasis sign
- Pitting, onycholysis, or oil-drop discoloration on the nail plate. These are medical conditions, so the technician should refer the client rather than treat.