Shaving, Beard, and Mustache Services
Preparation and skin care
A shave is a skin service. Warm towel, lather, massage, and a face analysis come first; skip the shave if you see inflamed skin, a raised mole, a cold sore, or an open lesion. Keep skin taut, use light strokes, and re-lather between passes.
Razors and strokes
The straight razor has a hollow-ground blade; honing sharpens it on a stone, while stropping aligns and polishes the edge on leather - they are not the same step. Safety razors use a disposable blade. Hold the razor at a low angle (about 30 degrees) and use freehand, backhand, and reverse-backhand strokes to follow the contours of the face and neck. Shave with the grain first to reduce irritation; go against the grain only if the skin tolerates it. Treat nicks with a styptic, and never use a blade that has been dropped or dulled.
Beard and mustache design
Outline with the natural growth pattern. Establish the cheek line and a neckline that follows a U about one to two fingers above the Adam's apple. Trim the mustache to the lip line and check symmetry from the front and both sides. Classic shapes include the goatee, Van Dyke, chinstrap, and full beard; finish with a cool towel and an antiseptic after-shave.
Traps
First pass against the grain, stropping sharpens the blade, and shaving over a mole all appear as distractors.
Rule of thumb
If you would not want the blade against your own skin, do not put it on a client's: single-use blade, disinfected holder, clean towel, clean hands.