Hair and Scalp Care and Treatment
Analyze before you treat
Hair analysis covers texture, density, porosity, elasticity, and growth pattern; scalp analysis covers normal, oily, dry, and flaky conditions. Elasticity is checked by stretching a wet strand - healthy hair stretches about 20% and returns; porosity by how quickly hair absorbs and releases water. Include these in every consultation; they decide which shampoo, conditioner, and treatment is appropriate.
Growth and shedding
Anagen (growth) lasts two to six years, catagen a few weeks, telogen about three months. Roughly 90% of scalp hair is in anagen at any time, hair grows about half an inch per month, and shedding 50–100 hairs a day is normal. Cutting or shaving does not speed growth; it only removes split ends.
Conditions and contraindications
Dandruff (pityriasis) and seborrheic dermatitis are common and manageable with medicated shampoo. Psoriasis, folliculitis, alopecia areata, and androgenetic alopecia are referred. Tinea capitis (ringworm) and pediculosis (lice) are contagious - stop, refer, and disinfect everything the client contacted. Hirsutism (excess hair in a male pattern on a woman) and hypertrichosis (excess hair generally) are treated cosmetically, but underlying causes belong to a physician. Trichoptilosis is split ends; fragilitas crinium is brittle, breaking hair.
Treatments
Clarifying shampoo for buildup, moisturizing formulas for dry hair, conditioner on mid-shaft to ends, scalp massage in the direction of growth and never on inflamed skin, steam and hot towels for comfort, high-frequency for scalp stimulation per manufacturer.
Rule of thumb
Red, raised, weeping, or spreading - stop and refer. You are licensed to style and treat hair, not to diagnose disease.