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Pancyprian TS Hairdressing Materials - independent service foundations study materials
Pancyprian TS Hairdressing Materials - independent service foundations study resources

Pancyprian TS Hairdressing Materials - independent service foundations practice questions

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Question 1Hair fibre, growth and material behavior

Which layer of the hair shaft is the outermost protective covering of overlapping scale-like cells?

  1. Cuticle Correct answer.
  2. Cortex
  3. Medulla
  4. Papilla

Explanation

The cuticle is the outermost layer of overlapping keratinised cells that protect the cortex, control shine, and influence how chemicals enter the fibre. Its integrity is a primary concern before any chemical service.

Question 2Hair fibre, growth and material behavior

Most of the hair’s tensile strength, elasticity and natural colour reside in which layer?

  1. Cuticle
  2. Cortex Correct answer.
  3. Medulla
  4. Sebaceous gland

Explanation

The cortex is packed with keratin macrofibrils and melanin granules. Chemical services that change shape or colour act primarily within this layer after the cuticle has been opened or softened.

Question 3Hair fibre, growth and material behavior

The loosely packed central core of some thicker hair shafts is called the:

  1. Cuticle
  2. Cortex
  3. Medulla Correct answer.
  4. Matrix

Explanation

The medulla is a soft, loosely organised central core found mainly in coarser hair. It contributes little to strength compared with the cortex.

Question 4Hair fibre, growth and material behavior

Hair protein is predominantly which structural protein?

  1. Collagen
  2. Elastin
  3. Keratin Correct answer.
  4. Myosin

Explanation

Hair is largely α-keratin organised into intermediate filaments. Understanding keratin chemistry underpins permanent waving, relaxing and oxidative colouring.

Question 5Hair fibre, growth and material behavior

Which bonds between cysteine residues give hair its durable shape and must be broken for a permanent wave or chemical relaxer?

  1. Ionic (salt) bonds
  2. Hydrogen bonds
  3. Disulfide bonds Correct answer.
  4. Van der Waals forces only

Explanation

Disulfide (–S–S–) bridges between cysteine side chains are covalent and hold the permanent shape of the cortex. Reducing agents in perm and relaxer products cleave them so a new shape can be set.

Question 6Hair fibre, growth and material behavior

Hydrogen bonds in hair are most characteristically broken by:

  1. Ammonium thioglycolate alone
  2. Water and heat during wet styling Correct answer.
  3. Hydrogen peroxide neutraliser only
  4. Ultraviolet light only

Explanation

Hydrogen bonds break when hair is wet or heated and reform as it cools and dries, which is why wet sets and thermal styling can temporarily reshape hair without a reducing agent.

Question 7Hair fibre, growth and material behavior

Natural hair colour is produced mainly by which pigment stored in the cortex?

  1. Chlorophyll
  2. Melanin Correct answer.
  3. Haemoglobin
  4. Carotene only

Explanation

Eumelanin and pheomelanin granules in the cortex determine natural hair colour. Bleaching oxidises these pigments to lighten the fibre.

Question 8Hair fibre, growth and material behavior

Raising the pH of a chemical service mixture into the alkaline range mainly causes the cuticle to:

  1. Close tightly and become more hydrophobic
  2. Swell and lift, increasing permeability Correct answer.
  3. Dissolve completely within seconds
  4. Convert keratin into collagen

Explanation

Alkaline conditions cause the cuticle scales to swell and lift, allowing reducing agents, colour precursors or peroxide to reach the cortex. That is why ammonia or other alkalis appear in many permanent colour and perm systems.

Question 9Hair fibre, growth and material behavior

Porous, previously lightened hair typically absorbs chemical products:

  1. More slowly and evenly than virgin hair
  2. More rapidly and often unevenly Correct answer.
  3. Not at all because the cuticle is sealed
  4. Only at the root and never at the ends

Explanation

Chemical and mechanical damage raises porosity, so solutions enter faster-especially at porous mid-lengths and ends-risking over-processing if timing and formulation are not adjusted.

Question 10Hair fibre, growth and material behavior

Which statement about the hair follicle is correct for materials-technology understanding?

  1. The follicle is dead tissue identical to the cuticle scales
  2. New hair keratin is formed in the living matrix of the follicle bulb Correct answer.
  3. All chemical services act only on the follicle and never the shaft
  4. The follicle contains no blood supply near the bulb

Explanation

Living matrix cells in the bulb synthesise keratin and incorporate melanin; the emerged shaft is dead. Salon chemistry therefore acts on the keratin fibre, not by ‘reviving’ living shaft cells.

Question 11Hair fibre, growth and material behavior

Salt (ionic) bonds in hair are most sensitive to changes in:

  1. Only ultraviolet wavelength
  2. pH and the presence of water/ions Correct answer.
  3. Only magnetic fields
  4. Only mechanical combing force

Explanation

Salt bridges between charged amino-acid side chains break and reform with pH shifts and aqueous ionic environments. They contribute to temporary set behaviour alongside hydrogen bonds.

Question 12Hair fibre, growth and material behavior

Eumelanin versus pheomelanin mainly differ in that:

  1. Eumelanin is never found in human hair
  2. Eumelanin tends toward brown/black tones while pheomelanin toward red/yellow Correct answer.
  3. Pheomelanin alone forms the cuticle scales
  4. Both pigments dissolve instantly in plain water

Explanation

Eumelanin produces darker brown–black shades; pheomelanin produces red–yellow tones. Their relative amounts explain natural colour diversity and bleaching behaviour.

Question 13Hair fibre, growth and material behavior

Elasticity testing of a wet hair strand primarily evaluates:

  1. Only the amount of sebum on the scalp
  2. The fibre’s ability to stretch and return without breaking Correct answer.
  3. Whether the medulla is present
  4. The exact percentage of ammonia in prior colour

Explanation

Wet elasticity reflects cortical integrity. Poor return or easy breakage signals damage and warns against aggressive chemical services.

Question 14Hair fibre, growth and material behavior

Lanugo, vellus and terminal hair differ primarily by:

  1. Whether they contain keratin
  2. Diameter, length and whether they are fine/short or coarser pigmented fibres Correct answer.
  3. Whether disulfide bonds exist only in lanugo
  4. Whether only terminal hair can be shampooed

Explanation

Lanugo is fine fetal hair; vellus is short fine body hair; terminal hair is longer, coarser and usually more pigmented (scalp, beard). Materials chemistry still acts on keratin in all types, but diameters affect processing.

Question 15Hair fibre, growth and material behavior

Why does an acidic finishing rinse after an alkaline chemical service help the hair?

  1. It permanently adds new disulfide bonds beyond neutralisation
  2. It helps flatten/close cuticle scales and restore a more acidic surface pH Correct answer.
  3. It converts all melanin into pheomelanin
  4. It sterilises the cortex

Explanation

After alkaline swelling, an acid-balanced rinse helps the cuticle lie flatter, improving feel and shine and returning surface pH toward the hair’s natural acidic range. It does not replace proper chemical neutralisation of a perm.

Question 16Hair fibre, growth and material behavior

Cross-sections of hair show that curly fibres are often more:

  1. Perfectly round than straight fibres
  2. Oval or asymmetrical compared with many straighter fibres Correct answer.
  3. Hollow tubes with no cortex
  4. Composed only of medulla

Explanation

Many curly hairs have oval or irregular cross-sections and asymmetric cortical organisation, which influences shape and how chemicals distribute during services.

Question 17Hair fibre, growth and material behavior

Cysteine residues in keratin are especially important because they can form:

  1. Peptide bonds with glucose
  2. Disulfide bridges that stabilise tertiary/quaternary fibre structure Correct answer.
  3. Only temporary ionic dyes
  4. Cellulose chains

Explanation

Two cysteine thiols oxidise to a cystine disulfide bridge. Remodelling those bridges is the chemical basis of permanent waving and relaxing.

Question 18Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

In a conventional alkaline permanent wave, the primary reducing agent is typically:

  1. Sodium hydroxide
  2. Ammonium thioglycolate Correct answer.
  3. Pure ethanol
  4. Titanium dioxide

Explanation

Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) reduces disulfide bonds so hair can be reshaped around rods. Sodium hydroxide is associated with hydroxide relaxers, not standard ATG perms.

Question 19Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

After processing a permanent wave, the neutraliser’s main chemical role is to:

  1. Further reduce remaining disulfide bonds
  2. Re-oxidise and rebuild disulfide bonds in the new shape Correct answer.
  3. Dissolve the cuticle completely
  4. Remove all keratin from the cortex

Explanation

Neutralisers (often hydrogen peroxide or related oxidisers) re-form disulfide bonds so the new curl configuration is locked. Incomplete neutralisation leaves weak, overly soft hair.

Question 20Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

A chemical hair relaxer of the hydroxide type primarily works by:

  1. Coating the cuticle with temporary colour
  2. Breaking disulfide bonds under strong alkaline conditions to straighten Correct answer.
  3. Only evaporating water from the cortex
  4. Adding new melanin granules

Explanation

Hydroxide relaxers (e.g., sodium, lithium, potassium or guanidine systems) use high alkalinity to break disulfide bonds so curly hair can be straightened and then rinsed/neutralised according to the product system.

Question 21Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

Why must hydroxide relaxers and thio (ATG) perms/relaxers not be overlaid carelessly on the same hair?

  1. They form an insoluble plastic film that cannot be shampooed
  2. Incompatible chemistries can severely over-process and break hair Correct answer.
  3. They cancel all electrostatic charge forever
  4. They convert hair into collagen

Explanation

Mixing or layering incompatible reducing/hydroxide systems can cause extreme bond breakage and hair loss. Manufacturers specify which prior services are contraindications.

Question 22Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

During a perm, hair is wrapped on rods so that when disulfide bonds re-form they:

  1. Ignore the rod shape entirely
  2. Lock the fibre into the curved configuration of the rod Correct answer.
  3. Only strengthen the medulla
  4. Bleach all melanin automatically

Explanation

The physical shape during oxidation determines the new disulfide pattern. Rod diameter therefore controls curl size.

Question 23Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

End papers in permanent waving are used mainly to:

  1. Neutralise the solution chemically
  2. Control the ends, reduce fishhooks and aid even saturation Correct answer.
  3. Replace the need for a patch test
  4. Raise the pH of ATG to 14

Explanation

End papers organise and cushion the hair ends so wrapping is smooth and solution distributes evenly, reducing buckled ends (fishhooks).

Question 24Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

Over-processing a permanent wave most commonly results in:

  1. Increased natural melanin
  2. Weak, overly curly or frizzy, easily broken hair Correct answer.
  3. Permanent sterilisation of the scalp
  4. Conversion to an acid-balanced shampoo

Explanation

Excessive reduction leaves too few intact disulfide bonds. Hair feels mushy when wet, looks frizzy when dry, and may break-especially if neutralisation is also incomplete.

Question 25Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

A test curl during permanent waving is performed to:

  1. Measure the client’s blood pressure
  2. Check whether processing has reached the desired curl pattern before full timing ends Correct answer.
  3. Replace the neutraliser step
  4. Determine the exact molecular weight of keratin

Explanation

A test curl lets the stylist evaluate wave formation and decide whether to continue, rinse or adjust. It is a process-control check, not a substitute for neutralisation.

Question 26Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

Ammonia in many permanent colour and some chemical systems primarily functions to:

  1. Act as the sole melanin pigment
  2. Alkalise, swell the cuticle and help actives penetrate Correct answer.
  3. Sterilise metal tools instantly
  4. Lower pH below 3

Explanation

Ammonia raises pH, opens the cuticle and helps peroxide and dye intermediates reach the cortex. Its volatility also explains the characteristic odour and the need for ventilation.

Question 27Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

Thioglycolate-based curl reformation depends on first converting disulfide bonds largely into:

  1. Peptide bonds
  2. Free thiol (–SH) groups Correct answer.
  3. Cellulose esters
  4. Metallic salts of titanium

Explanation

Reduction cleaves –S–S– into two –SH groups. Later oxidation reunites selected thiols into new disulfides matching the reshaped fibre.

Question 28Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

Incomplete rinsing of perm solution before neutraliser can cause:

  1. Improved long-term elasticity automatically
  2. Uneven neutralisation, odour retention and continued damage risk Correct answer.
  3. Immediate conversion to temporary colour
  4. Complete immunity to future chemical services

Explanation

Residual reducer can interfere with clean oxidation, leave odour and continue attacking bonds. Thorough rinsing (per manufacturer timing) precedes neutraliser application.

Question 29Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

Heat during chemical waving or colouring generally:

  1. Always stops all chemical reactions
  2. Accelerates reaction rates, requiring careful timing control Correct answer.
  3. Converts alkaline perms into hydroxide relaxers
  4. Removes the need for any PPE

Explanation

Temperature increases molecular motion and reaction rate. Climazone/heat lamps or body heat under caps can shorten processing-and raise over-processing risk if ignored.

Question 30Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

The ‘nine-section’ parting pattern taught for many perms is intended to:

  1. Replace the reducing lotion
  2. Organise the head into controlled panels for even wrapping and saturation Correct answer.
  3. Measure exact cysteine percentage
  4. Sterilise combs

Explanation

Systematic sectioning supports even rod placement, tension and lotion distribution-key to predictable curl patterns in workshop practice.

Question 31Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

Temporary hair colour typically:

  1. Oxidises melanin in the cortex with 40-volume peroxide
  2. Coats the cuticle surface and washes out after few shampoos Correct answer.
  3. Requires a 48-hour neutraliser
  4. Uses only sodium hydroxide

Explanation

Temporary colours are large dye molecules or pigments that deposit on/near the cuticle and leave quickly with shampooing. They do not create a lasting oxidative dye inside the cortex.

Question 32Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

Semi-permanent dyes generally:

  1. Require a separate peroxide developer to polymerise inside the cortex
  2. Penetrate the cuticle somewhat and last through several washes without a classic developer Correct answer.
  3. Permanently destroy all disulfide bonds
  4. Are identical to powdered bleach

Explanation

Semi-permanent colours usually contain direct dyes that enter the cuticle/outer cortex without oxidative coupling via peroxide developer, lasting through multiple washes but not indefinitely.

Question 33Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

Oxidative (permanent) hair colour requires dye intermediates plus:

  1. Only distilled water
  2. An oxidising developer, commonly hydrogen peroxide Correct answer.
  3. Solid carbon dioxide
  4. Pure mineral oil as the sole activator

Explanation

Hydrogen peroxide oxidises dye precursors so they couple into larger coloured molecules trapped in the cortex, and it can also lighten natural melanin depending on volume and time.

Question 34Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

Bleaching (lightening) lightens hair primarily by:

  1. Adding eumelanin granules
  2. Oxidising and decolourising natural melanin in the cortex Correct answer.
  3. Coating the hair with white chalk permanently
  4. Reducing disulfide bonds like ATG

Explanation

Lighteners use peroxide (often with persulfate boosters) to oxidise melanin. The fibre becomes paler; structural protein can also be damaged, so conditioning and timing matter.

Question 35Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

Ammonia or an ammonia substitute in permanent colour is included mainly to:

  1. Act as the yellow pigment
  2. Swell the cuticle and create an alkaline environment for dye and peroxide action Correct answer.
  3. Lower developer volume from 40 to 10 automatically
  4. Replace the need for gloves

Explanation

Alkalisers open the cuticle and enable oxidative colour chemistry. Ammonia-free systems often use MEA or other alkalisers with different odour and swelling profiles.

Question 36Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

On the level system, moving from a dark brown (level 3) toward a pale blonde (level 9–10) requires:

  1. Only a temporary rinse
  2. Substantial oxidative lightening of melanin Correct answer.
  3. A hydroxide relaxer alone
  4. Acidic pH 2 shampoo exclusively

Explanation

Each level up means less remaining natural pigment. High lift needs controlled bleaching/lightening chemistry, not mere surface rinses.

Question 37Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

A strand test before colour or bleach is used to:

  1. Bill the client for extra rods
  2. Preview lift, tone and fibre integrity on a small section Correct answer.
  3. Satisfy a legal requirement to skip the patch test forever
  4. Measure salon humidity only

Explanation

Strand tests show how the actual hair responds-speed of lift, underlying warmth, and breakage risk-before committing the whole head.

Question 38Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

Metallic (progressive) dyes or mineral salts left in hair are a concern before professional lightening because they can:

  1. Improve even peroxide action safely
  2. Cause uneven reactions, discolouration or breakage with salon oxidisers Correct answer.
  3. Guarantee perfect grey coverage
  4. Lower pH to exactly 5.5 in all cases

Explanation

Residual metallic dyes can catalyse violent or uneven peroxide reactions. Thorough client history and, where indicated, test procedures protect against damage.

Question 39Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

Demi-permanent oxidative colour typically:

  1. Uses little or no ammonia and lower-volume developer for deposit with limited lift Correct answer.
  2. Requires 40-volume only
  3. Is identical to powdered bleach
  4. Never washes out at all

Explanation

Demi systems oxidise dye with mild alkalinity and low-volume peroxide, depositing tone and blending grey with minimal lift and less cuticle disruption than full permanent ammonia colour.

Question 40Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

Hydrogen peroxide decomposes to water and oxygen. In hair colouring, released oxygen helps to:

  1. Reduce ATG odor permanently in all perms
  2. Drive oxidation of dye intermediates and melanin Correct answer.
  3. Form new peptide bonds between amino acids
  4. Create keratin from scratch

Explanation

Peroxide is the oxidiser: it develops dye molecules and can oxidise melanin during lightening. Controlling concentration and time manages both colour and damage.

Question 41Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

Why are roots often processed differently from mid-lengths/ends in retouch colour?

  1. Roots never contain melanin
  2. New growth is typically less porous and body heat accelerates chemistry at the scalp Correct answer.
  3. Ends always need 40-volume exclusively
  4. Mid-lengths contain living matrix cells

Explanation

Virgin root hair is usually less porous, while previously coloured lengths are more porous; scalp heat also speeds reactions. Stylists adjust application order and timing to even the result.

Question 42Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

An oxidative colour that ‘lifts and deposits’ in one step means it:

  1. Only coats the cuticle like a temporary rinse
  2. Lightens natural pigment while forming new dye molecules in the cortex Correct answer.
  3. Uses only acidic pH 2 without peroxide
  4. Is solely a hydroxide relaxer

Explanation

Permanent colour systems can simultaneously oxidise some melanin (lift) and create artificial dye (deposit), with the balance depending on formula level, tone and developer volume.

Question 43Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

Persulfate boosters in powder bleach are added to:

  1. Neutralise all alkalinity instantly
  2. Intensify oxidative lightening beyond peroxide alone Correct answer.
  3. Act as the sole surfactant in shampoo
  4. Replace gloves

Explanation

Ammonium, potassium or sodium persulfates are strong oxidising accelerators used with peroxide in bleach powders to achieve higher lift under controlled conditions.

Question 44Colour, lightening and chemical-texture principles

Before applying many oxidative colours or perms, a client allergy patch test is performed to check for:

  1. Blood glucose only
  2. Delayed contact allergy/sensitivity to the product Correct answer.
  3. Exact hair elasticity percentage
  4. Whether the client can sit still for two hours

Explanation

Patch (prediposition) tests place diluted product on skin (commonly inner elbow/behind ear) and observe for reaction after the manufacturer’s specified interval-often up to 48 hours-before a full service.

Question 45Cosmetic formulation functions, labels and compatibility

Most shampoos clean hair because they contain:

  1. Pure mineral oil only
  2. Surfactants that lower surface tension and emulsify sebum/dirt Correct answer.
  3. Undiluted sodium hydroxide
  4. Metallic dyes

Explanation

Anionic and amphoteric surfactants wet the hair, lift oils into micelles and allow rinsing. Choice of surfactant blend affects mildness and foam.

Question 46Cosmetic formulation functions, labels and compatibility

Conditioners mainly improve manageability by:

  1. Permanently adding new disulfide bonds like a neutraliser
  2. Depositing cationic conditioning agents and oils that smooth the cuticle and reduce friction Correct answer.
  3. Oxidising melanin
  4. Sterilising the cortex

Explanation

Cationic surfactants and polymers substantively bind to negatively charged damaged hair, reducing static and friction while oils add slip and shine.

Question 47Cosmetic formulation functions, labels and compatibility

An oil-in-water emulsion in a cream product means:

  1. Water droplets dispersed in a continuous oil phase only
  2. Oil droplets dispersed in a continuous water phase, stabilised by emulsifiers Correct answer.
  3. A pure metal alloy
  4. A gas dissolved in ATG

Explanation

Most lotions/creams are O/W systems: tiny oil droplets in water, kept stable by emulsifiers so hydrophobic conditioners spread evenly on hair.

Question 48Cosmetic formulation functions, labels and compatibility

Clarifying shampoos are typically used to:

  1. Deposit maximum silicone permanently
  2. Remove build-up from styling products, hard water or residue before chemical services when appropriate Correct answer.
  3. Replace bleach for seven levels of lift
  4. Act as the only disinfectant for metal tools

Explanation

Stronger cleansing systems strip residues that can block even colour or perm uptake. Overuse can dry hair, so follow with conditioning.

Question 49Cosmetic formulation functions, labels and compatibility

Hard water can affect salon results by:

  1. Never interacting with surfactants
  2. Leaving mineral deposits that make hair feel dull and can interfere with lather and chemical evenness Correct answer.
  3. Converting all shampoos to relaxers
  4. Lowering bleach strength to zero always

Explanation

Calcium and magnesium ions form films and reduce lather efficiency. Clarifying treatments or chelating shampoos help before critical colour services.

Question 50Cosmetic formulation functions, labels and compatibility

A leave-in conditioner differs from a rinse-out conditioner mainly in that it is:

  1. Always pH 14
  2. Formulated to remain on the hair for ongoing detangling/protection without full rinsing Correct answer.
  3. Used only as a permanent wave neutraliser
  4. Identical to 40-volume developer

Explanation

Leave-ins are lighter, designed for residual slip, UV/heat protection or frizz control. Rinse-outs are removed after a short contact time.