DE Barber cheat sheet

Sanitize = clean with soap/detergent and water to remove visible debris; disinfect = use an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant to kill pathogens on nonporous tools.

Sterilize = destroy all microbial life including spores, typically with an autoclave (steam under pressure); required for items that may contact blood or broken skin.

Tools that contact skin or hair (clippers, shears, combs, razors) must be disinfected after every client; porous items that cannot be disinfected must be discarded.

Most EPA-registered disinfectants require full immersion of pre-cleaned implements for the label contact time (commonly 10 minutes); contact time, not color, determines efficacy.

Blood spill procedure: wear gloves, stop the service, clean visible blood with absorbent material, then disinfect the surface with an EPA-registered tuberculocidal disinfectant at label dilution and time.

Single-use items (razor blades, neck strips, wooden sticks) are never reused; sharps go into a labeled puncture-resistant sharps container, not the trash.

Hand hygiene: wash hands with soap and water before and after each client; alcohol-based hand rub is an alternative only when hands are not visibly soiled.

Hepatitis B is the main bloodborne risk in barbering; HBV can survive on dried surfaces for at least 7 days, so contaminated tools remain infectious.

OSHA Bloodborne Pathogens Standard requires an exposure control plan, HBV vaccination offered free to at-risk workers, PPE, and post-exposure evaluation.

Hair shaft layers: cuticle (outer protective scales), cortex (bulk, pigment, strength), medulla (central core, may be absent in fine hair).

Growth phases: anagen (active growth, ~2-6 years), catagen (transition, ~2-3 weeks), telogen (rest, ~3 months); shedding follows telogen.

Follicle shape determines curl: round follicle = straight hair, oval = wavy, flat/elliptical = curly or kinky.

Contagious conditions (tinea capitis, pediculosis, impetigo) require refusal of service and referral; noncontagious conditions (dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, alopecia areata) may be serviced with caution.

Fungal scalp infection (tinea capitis) presents as scaly, circular patches with broken hairs; barbers must not treat it - refer to a physician.

Head lice (pediculosis capitis) = nits glued to the hair shaft near the scalp; service is contraindicated until treated.

Furuncle = localized bacterial infection of a follicle (boil); carbuncle = cluster of boils - both are contraindications to shaving over the area.

Alopecia areata = patchy, noncontagious autoimmune hair loss with smooth skin; alopecia totalis = whole scalp; alopecia universalis = entire body.

Hair is roughly 90% keratin protein; pH of hair and scalp is acidic (~4.5-5.5), which affects shampoo and chemical service choices.

Shears create blunt lines and soft texture; razors create the closest cut and taper; clippers with guards set the initial length guard number to the desired millimeter range.

Elevation (lifting hair away from the head) controls graduation: 0 degrees = blunt/one length, 45 degrees = graduation, 90 degrees = uniform layers, 180 degrees = long layers.

Guide (section) cutting: establish a stationary guide for the first section, then use a traveling guide to carry that length through the rest of the haircut.

Cross-checking cuts in the opposite direction reveals uneven lines before finishing.

Tapering: start at the nape or sideburn with the longest guard, work toward the tightest area; blend by rocking the clipper out at the transition line.

Shaving lather softens the beard and holds moisture; shave with the grain first, re-lather, then across or against the grain only if the skin tolerates it.

Straight razor angle is about 30 degrees to the skin; stretch the skin taut and use short strokes to avoid nicks.

A razor cut is a slice, not a nick: apply pressure with clean gauze, then disinfect the tool before continuing.

Blow-dry styling sets the hair in the direction of the finished style; cool air closes the cuticle and sets the shape.

Hair color: temporary color coats the cuticle; semipermanent deposits without lifting; permanent color lifts and deposits via an oxidation reaction with developer.

Developer (hydrogen peroxide) volumes: 10 vol = 3%, 20 vol = 6%, 30 vol = 9%, 40 vol = 12%; higher volume = more lift and more damage.

Color formulation math: total color = color + developer; a 1:1 ratio means equal parts, a 1:2 ratio means twice as much developer.

Patch test 24-48 hours before any color or lightener service; record the result in the client record.

Strand test determines processing time and predicted result before committing to the full head.

Relaxers (hydroxide or ammonium thioglycolate) break disulfide bonds to straighten; neutralizer (shampoo/neutralizing lotion) reforms the bonds and stops the process.

Never apply a relaxer over a previously relaxed area (no double processing) or over scalp abrasions; base the scalp to protect it.

Perm wrapping: hair wrapped on rods wet with reducing lotion, processed, rinsed, then neutralized; a test curl shows when the wave is set.

Drape and PPE for chemicals: cape, towel, gloves, and ventilation; keep developer and color off the skin and eyes, and rinse eyes with water for 15 minutes if contact occurs.

State barber license renewal typically requires continuing education hours set by the state board; the license must be posted at the workstation.

Scope of practice: barbers cut, shave, and style hair and beard; chemical services such as color and relaxers are permitted only where the state license includes them.

A consultation documents client goals, hair history, prior chemical services, and allergies before the service begins.

Client record cards hold service dates, formulations, patch/strand test results, and any adverse reactions; keep them confidential.

Pricing: service price = labor + product + overhead + profit margin; retail markup is commonly double the wholesale cost (keystone pricing).

Scheduling: book chemical services with extra time and avoid stacking a relaxer immediately before a color on the same day.

Informed consent for chemical services includes explaining risks (breakage, irritation, color result variation) and alternatives.

Refund and redo policies should be written and shown at the consultation to prevent disputes.

Retail product recommendations must match the client's hair type, scalp condition, and current chemical history.