DE Cosmetology flashcards

32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.

Cortex

Middle layer of the hair shaft containing melanin and keratin; determines hair color, strength, and elasticity. Damage to the cortex causes breakage and loss of moisture.

pH scale

Scale from 0 to 14 measuring acidity/alkalinity. Hair and skin are slightly acidic (~4.5–5.5); alkaline solutions swell hair and open cuticle; acidic solutions close cuticle.

Developer volume

Hydrogen peroxide concentration: 10 vol (3%) lifts 1 level, 20 vol (6%) lifts 2, 30 vol (9%) lifts 3, 40 vol (12%) lifts 4. Higher volume increases lightening and scalp irritation.

Relaxer neutralization

After ammonium thioglycolate or sodium hydroxide relaxer, a neutralizer (hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate) re-forms disulfide bonds to set the new shape and stop chemical action.

Disinfection

Process using EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant to destroy most pathogens on nonporous surfaces. Required for implements after each client; does not kill all spores.

Hair porosity

Ability of hair to absorb and retain moisture. Test by floating a strand in water: sinks quickly = high porosity (damaged cuticle); floats = low porosity (tight cuticle).

Clipper guard sizes

Numbered guards determine cut length: #1 = 1/8 inch (3 mm), #2 = 1/4 inch (6 mm), #3 = 3/8 inch (10 mm), #4 = 1/2 inch (13 mm). Higher numbers leave longer hair.

Razor cutting angle

Straight razor should be held at 30 degrees or less to the skin. Use a fresh blade, stretch skin taut, and cut in the direction of hair growth to prevent irritation.

Hot towel temperature

For beard preparation, use a hot towel at 100–115°F (38–46°C) for 2–3 minutes. This softens hair and opens pores; avoid on clients with sensitive skin or rosacea.

Fade

Barbering technique that blends hair from short to skin at the neckline and sides. Achieved by gradually changing clipper guard sizes or using a taper lever.

Barbicide

Quaternary ammonium disinfectant used in barbershops for combs and shears. Follow label dilution; immerse implements for 10 minutes after cleaning. Not a sterilant.

Fitzpatrick scale

Classification I–VI of skin sun reactivity based on melanin. Type I burns easily, Type VI rarely burns. Guides laser, peel, and waxing intensity to avoid burns and hyperpigmentation.

Effleurage

Gliding massage stroke used in facials. Apply light pressure toward lymph nodes to promote drainage; deeper pressure toward muscle origin for relaxation. Always follow client comfort.

AHA vs BHA

Alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic) exfoliate surface skin; beta hydroxy acid (salicylic) penetrates pores. Avoid on active acne, broken skin, or recent peels.

Hard wax temperature

Hard wax should be heated to 125–135°F (52–57°C); soft wax to 95–110°F (35–43°C). Test on inner wrist before application to prevent burns.

Lymphatic drainage

Gentle facial massage technique moving fluid toward cervical, submandibular, and clavicular lymph nodes. Reduces edema and supports detoxification; use light pressure.

Galvanic electrolysis

Direct current (0.5–1.5 mA) passed through a needle to produce sodium hydroxide (lye) in the follicle, destroying germinative cells. Treatment time 10–30 seconds per hair.

Thermolysis

High-frequency alternating current (13.56 MHz) delivered via a single needle to coagulate tissue at the hair matrix. Current 0.05–0.3 mA; time 1–5 seconds per hair.

Blend method

Electrolysis modality combining galvanic and thermolysis currents. Produces both lye and heat for effective destruction of hair matrix; current 0.2–1.0 mA, time 5–15 seconds.

Anagen phase

Active growth phase of hair cycle. Hair is most responsive to electrolysis during anagen; catagen and telogen hairs are less effectively treated, so multiple sessions are needed.

Electrology contraindications

Conditions that prevent electrolysis: pacemaker, pregnancy, uncontrolled diabetes, active infection, keloid tendency, metal implants near area, anticoagulant therapy. Refer to physician.

Nail plate

Hard keratin structure covering the nail bed. Grows from the matrix; average fingernail growth 3.5 mm/month. Protect from trauma to avoid onycholysis.

Lunula

White half-moon at the base of the nail plate. Visible portion of the matrix; changes in color or shape may indicate systemic disease and should be referred.

Cuticle

Dead tissue seal at the base of the nail plate. Do not cut living eponychium; push back gently. Cuticle protects against infection.

Nail filing direction

File natural nails in one direction from corner to center to prevent splitting. Use 180–240 grit; avoid back-and-forth sawing that damages nail plate.

Acrylic monomer ratio

Mix liquid monomer (EMA) with powder polymer at approximately 1:1.5 ratio. Too wet causes shrinkage; too dry causes lifting. Never use MMA (banned in many states).

Gel polish curing

Requires UV/LED lamp (36W) for 30–60 seconds per layer. Apply base coat, color, top coat; cure each. Remove by soaking in acetone 10–15 minutes.

Onychomycosis

Fungal infection of the nail plate, often yellow, thick, and crumbly. Contagious; do not treat with nail services. Refer to physician for diagnosis and treatment.

Paronychia

Bacterial infection of skin around the nail, causing redness, swelling, and pus. Do not manipulate; refer to physician. Prevent by not cutting living tissue and keeping implements disinfected.

EPA-registered disinfectant

Hospital-grade product effective against most pathogens on nonporous implements. Immerse cleaned tools for 10 minutes per label. Required in salons for client safety.

Hair elasticity test

Stretch a wet strand; healthy hair stretches 40–50% and returns. Dry hair stretches 20%. Poor elasticity indicates damage and need for protein treatment.

Taper vs fade

Taper gradually shortens hair at neckline and sides without going to skin; fade blends to skin for a seamless look. Fade requires more skill and closer clipper work.