ITEC Beauty Therapy (ITEC) cheat sheet

Scope of practice: a beauty therapist works within the limits of their qualification and insurance; medical conditions (e.g. skin cancer, fungal nail infection) are referred to a GP or specialist, not treated.

Informed consent requires the client to be told the treatment, its purpose, risks, alternatives and cost, and to agree freely; consent must be recorded and can be withdrawn at any time.

Client confidentiality: personal and treatment records are shared only with the client's permission or where disclosure is legally required; records are stored securely and retained per local law.

Professional indemnity and public liability insurance are separate policies; indemnity covers claims of negligent treatment, public liability covers injury to third parties on premises.

Duty of care means acting as a reasonably competent therapist would; breaching it through negligence can lead to civil claims even where no harm was intended.

Data protection principles: collect only necessary data, keep it accurate and secure, retain only as long as needed, and give clients access to their records on request.

Discrimination and equal treatment law requires services to be offered on consistent terms regardless of protected characteristics; refusal must be based on clinical contraindication, documented.

Advertising and claims must be truthful and evidence-based; claiming a cosmetic treatment cures disease is both unethical and likely unlawful under consumer protection law.

Continuing professional development (CPD) and adherence to a recognised code of conduct are typical conditions of professional membership and insurance cover.

Epidermis layers (deep to superficial): stratum basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum (palms/soles only), corneum; the basal layer is where mitosis and melanin transfer occur.

Dermis contains collagen (tensile strength), elastin (recoil) and glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid (hydration); fibroblasts produce these fibres.

Skin appendages: sebaceous glands secrete sebum (androgen-driven), eccrine sweat glands thermoregulate, apocrine glands are found in axillae and groin.

Hair growth cycle: anagen (growth, 2-7 years scalp), catagen (transition, weeks), telogen (rest, ~3 months); only anagen hairs respond well to electrolysis because the follicle is fully formed.

Nail plate is produced by the matrix; the lunula is the visible distal matrix, the cuticle (eponychium) seals the nail base, and the hyponychium seals the free edge.

Bones of relevance: phalanges (14 per hand), metacarpals (5), carpal bones (8); the facial skeleton includes zygomatic, maxilla, mandible and nasal bones.

Muscles of facial expression are innervated by the facial nerve (CN VII); the trigeminal nerve (CN V) provides facial sensation - relevant when assessing sensitivity or numbness.

Lymphatic drainage follows superficial vessels to regional nodes (cervical, axillary, inguinal); massage strokes move proximally toward these node groups.

Arterial supply to the face comes mainly from the external carotid branches (facial, superficial temporal); the angular vein connects facial veins to the cavernous sinus, a reason to avoid infection near the nose.

Consultation sequence: record personal details, medical history, medications, allergies, lifestyle, previous treatments, then assess skin/nails/hair, agree goals, obtain consent and sign.

Absolute contraindications to heat and electrical treatments include pregnancy over the abdomen, pacemakers, epilepsy (for certain currents), active infection, and recent haemorrhage.

Relative contraindications (e.g. diabetes, anticoagulant therapy, recent waxing before laser) require a risk assessment, adjusted parameters or GP consent rather than automatic refusal.

Patch test rule: any product containing potential sensitisers (PPD in tint, some waxes, adhesives) is patch tested 24-48 hours before first use and after any product change.

Allergy documentation must distinguish true allergy (immune-mediated, may worsen) from irritation (dose-related); both are recorded and the product avoided.

Treatment plan components: goal, modality, products, parameters, frequency, home care, review date, and documented rationale for any deviation from standard protocol.

Referral triggers: unexplained lumps, changing moles (ABCDE), non-healing sores, sudden hair loss, pitting or discoloured nails, and any symptom suggesting systemic disease.

Record-keeping standard: date, therapist, treatment, products and batch where relevant, parameters, client response, aftercare given, and signature of client and therapist.

Chain of infection: infectious agent, reservoir, portal of exit, mode of transmission, portal of entry, susceptible host; breaking any link prevents transmission.

Hand hygiene is the single most effective control; wash with soap and water for at least 20 seconds, or use alcohol-based hand rub when hands are visibly clean.

Standard precautions apply to all clients regardless of known status: treat blood and body fluids as potentially infectious.

Single-use items (nail files, orange sticks, spatulas, wax strips, lash glue nozzles) are discarded after one client; reusable metal tools are cleaned then sterilised (autoclave) or disinfected with an appropriate virucidal/bactericidal agent.

Wax pots: never double-dip; use a fresh spatula and disposable strip per application, and discard wax contaminated with blood immediately with the pot decommissioned.

Colour-coded waste: sharps into rigid sharps containers, blood-stained waste as clinical waste, uncontaminated packaging as general waste.

COSHH-style risk assessment: obtain safety data sheets, store chemicals in labelled original containers, and know first-aid measures for acids, alkalis and solvents.

Electrical safety: PAT testing of equipment, no trailing leads, no water near sockets, and visual checks before each use; faulty equipment is removed from service.

Fire and emergency: know exit routes, extinguisher types (CO2 for electrical, water for solids), and the accident-reporting procedure for incidents and near misses.

Skin types: normal, dry (lacking lipids), oily (excess sebum), combination (oily T-zone, drier cheeks), sensitive (reactive); skin conditions (dehydration, acne, rosacea, pigmentation) are separate from type.

Analysis sequence: cleanse, observe under good light, palpate, use magnification lamp, assess pore size, texture, hydration, oiliness, sensitivity and lesions.

Cleansing routine order: pre-cleanse/oil cleanse, main cleanse, exfoliation, toning, treatment mask, serum, moisturiser, SPF (day).

Exfoliation types: mechanical (scrubs, brushes) and chemical (AHAs such as glycolic and lactic acid, BHAs such as salicylic acid); AHAs increase photosensitivity, so daily SPF is required.

Mask selection: clay for oily/congested skin, hydrating gel or sheet masks for dehydrated skin, cream masks for dry or mature skin, and calming masks for sensitive skin.

Extraction is only performed on mature comedones after softening; inflamed, cystic or pustular lesions are not squeezed because of scarring and spread risk.

Facial massage benefits circulation, lymphatic drainage and relaxation; strokes follow muscle fibre direction and lymph flow, avoiding the thyroid area and active inflammation.

Aftercare advice: avoid heat, sunbeds and strong actives for 24-48 hours after exfoliation or extraction, and use broad-spectrum SPF 30+ daily.

Contraindications for electrical facial devices include pregnancy, pacemakers, epilepsy, metal implants in the treatment area and active infection.

Massage effect hierarchy: local mechanical effects (tissue mobilisation, stretch), reflex effects (circulation, autonomic calming) and psychological effects (relaxation, pain modulation).

Classic Swedish strokes: effleurage (gliding, always toward the heart), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (percussion), friction (circular pressure), vibration.

Direction rule: superficial venous and lymphatic return moves toward the heart; deep pressure is applied centripetally, never directly over varicose veins, thrombosis or acute inflammation.

Contraindications to massage: fever, DVT, uncontrolled hypertension, recent surgery, fractures, open wounds, infectious skin disease, and first trimester of pregnancy for abdominal work.

Body analysis includes posture observation, BMI calculation (weight kg / height m²), skin condition, fluid retention (pitting oedema test) and range-of-motion checks.

Body wraps and exfoliation: salt or sugar scrubs are followed by rinses; heat wraps raise body temperature, so they are contraindicated in cardiovascular disease and claustrophobia.

Cellulite (gynoid lipodystrophy) is structural, not a disease; massage and wraps give temporary cosmetic improvement only and cannot remove fat.

Pressure calibration: start light, ask for feedback on a 1-10 scale, and avoid bony prominences, the anterior neck, axillae and popliteal fossa.

Aftercare: hydration, avoidance of heavy meals and alcohol immediately after treatment, and noting any soreness or bruising in the client record.

Hair structure: follicle, bulb, papilla (blood supply), sebaceous gland, arrector pili muscle; the anagen bulb is the target of electrolysis and laser.

Wax types: warm (roll-on, low temperature), hot (stripless, higher temperature, for coarse hair), sugar paste (water-soluble, lower irritancy); all are applied in the direction of hair growth and removed against it.

Wax temperature should be tested on the therapist's inner wrist; hot wax that causes redness or stinging is too hot and must be allowed to cool.

Contraindications to waxing: isotretinoin (Roaccutane) within the last 6-12 months, recent chemical peel or laser, active infection, sunburn, moles over the area, and anticoagulant therapy (relative).

Patch test 24-48 hours before first wax or tint; document the result and repeat after any product change.

Aftercare: avoid heat, sunbeds, swimming and tight clothing for 24 hours; exfoliate and moisturise from 48 hours to prevent ingrown hairs.

Ingrown hair (pseudofolliculitis) prevention: regular gentle exfoliation, no shaving over freshly waxed skin, and avoidance of very tight clothing.

Laser and IPL hair removal works on the principle of selective photothermolysis; contrast between melanin in hair and skin means dark hair on light skin responds best, and tanned skin risks burns.

Electrolysis uses a fine probe into the follicle with galvanic (chemical), thermolysis (heat) or blend current; it is suitable for white, grey and fine hair that laser cannot target.

Nail anatomy: matrix (growth), nail plate, nail bed, cuticle/eponychium, lunula, hyponychium, lateral folds; the matrix is the only living growth area, so damage there causes permanent deformity.

Nail shapes: square (strongest for short nails), squoval (versatile), oval (classic), almond (elegant, weaker), stiletto (high breakage risk); shape choice depends on nail bed and lifestyle.

Filing rule: file in one direction from side to centre to avoid delamination; use a finer grit for natural nails (180+ grit) than for enhancements.

Cuticle work: soften with cuticle cream or warm water, push back gently, and only nip loose, non-living tissue to avoid infection risk.

Contraindications to nail services: paronychia, onychomycosis (fungal infection), psoriasis of the nail, open cuts, and undiagnosed discolouration (refer to GP).

Gel polish removal: break the seal, soak in acetone for 10-15 minutes, then gently push off; never peel, because it removes layers of the natural plate.

Pedicure specifics: assess for diabetes (reduced sensation, slow healing), circulatory problems and ingrown toenails; do not cut corns or calluses to bleeding point.

Nail enhancement chemistry: acrylic (liquid monomer + powder polymer), gel (photoinitiator cured by UV/LED), and wraps (fibreglass/silk); each requires specific preparation and removal.

Infection control for nails: single-use files and buffers, disinfected metal implements, and no sharing of implements between clients without processing.

Colour theory for make-up: complementary colours neutralise (green cancels redness, peach/orange cancels blue-purple bruising, yellow cancels purple); undertone (warm, cool, neutral) guides foundation and lipstick choice.

Foundation matching is done on the jawline in natural light; oxidisation can shift the shade, so allow a few minutes before judging.

Face shapes and contouring: oval is the reference; round faces benefit from shading the sides, long faces from shading the forehead and chin, square faces from softening the jaw corners.

Eye make-up order: primer, base shadow, crease colour, liner, mascara; hooded eyes favour matte shades higher on the lid, while protruding eyes favour darker mattes to recede.

Lash anatomy: upper lashes 8-12 mm, lower 5-7 mm; growth cycle is 60-90 days (anagen 30-45 days), so lash extensions shed naturally and need infills every 2-3 weeks.

Lash extension adhesives are cyanoacrylate-based; they cure with moisture, and fumes can irritate, so patch test 24-48 hours before and keep the room ventilated.

Contraindications for lash/brow services: active eye infection, recent eye surgery, blepharitis, known cyanoacrylate or PPD allergy, and uncontrolled watery eyes.

Brow shaping: measure with the brow pencil rule - start at the inner corner, arch over the outer iris, tail at the outer corner; tint patch tests are required for PPD-based dyes.

Aftercare: no water, steam, sauna or oil-based products on lash extensions for 24-48 hours; brows should avoid exfoliants and sun for 24 hours after tinting.

Emulsion basics: oil-in-water (O/W) is light, non-greasy and good for oily skin; water-in-oil (W/O) is richer and more occlusive, suited to dry skin.

Humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea) attract water; emollients (oils, esters, silicones) soften and smooth; occlusives (petrolatum, dimethicone) reduce water loss.

pH matters: skin surface is about pH 4.7-5.5; AHAs need pH 3-4 to exfoliate effectively, and high-pH cleansers can disrupt the barrier.

Preservatives (parabens, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol) prevent microbial growth; water-containing products need a preservative system, and contamination risk rises with jar packaging and finger dipping.

Active ingredients: niacinamide (barrier, sebum), salicylic acid (BHA, pores), glycolic/lactic acid (AHAs, exfoliation), vitamin C (antioxidant, brightening), retinol (cell turnover, photosensitivity).

Fragrance and essential oils are common sensitisers; 'natural' does not mean hypoallergenic, and patch testing remains necessary.

Shelf life and PAO: the period-after-opening symbol (e.g. 12M) applies from first opening; products stored in heat or light degrade faster.

Sunscreen labels: SPF refers mainly to UVB protection; broad-spectrum or PA+/PPD ratings indicate UVA protection, and 2 mg/cm² is the tested application rate.

Ingredient label order: ingredients are listed in descending concentration down to 1%, after which order is flexible; this limits how much can be inferred about trace actives.