Depilation and hair removal techniques
Domain 7 tests hair removal science and safe practice. You need to know the hair growth cycle, compare methods, apply the correct waxing technique, screen for contraindications and give aftercare that prevents complications.
Hair growth and structure
- Each hair has a shaft, root, follicle, bulb and papilla; the sebaceous gland opens into the follicle.
- Growth cycles: anagen (active growth), catagen (transition) and telogen (resting and shedding).
- Vellus hair is fine and short; terminal hair is thicker and pigmented. Waxing is most effective on hair about 5–7 mm long.
Methods
- Warm or strip wax is applied thinly with the direction of growth and removed against it with a strip.
- Hot or hard wax shrink-wraps the hair and is removed without a strip; follow manufacturer and training guidance on application and removal.
- Sugaring paste is typically applied against the growth and removed with it; check your training and product instructions.
- Threading, electrolysis and IPL/laser have different mechanisms and training requirements.
Contraindications and testing
- Isotretinoin within about 6 months of stopping; recent topical retinoids; recent peels, laser or dermabrasion.
- Active infection, herpes simplex, sunburn, open lesions, moles (avoid or refer), varicose veins, keloid tendency.
- Relative: pregnancy, anticoagulants, controlled diabetes, immunosuppression.
- Patch test 24–48 hours before first treatment; test wax temperature on the inner wrist or back of the hand.
Aftercare
- Avoid heat, sun, perfumed products, tight clothing and exercise for 24–48 hours.
- Exfoliate gently after 48 hours and moisturise to reduce ingrown hairs.
Worked example
A client stopped isotretinoin three months ago and wants a bikini wax. The therapist declines because skin fragility and delayed healing persist after stopping; standard advice is to wait about six months and confirm with the prescriber. She offers a consultation and patch test for a later date and records the advice. The reasoning is that isotretinoin is an absolute contraindication within the stated window.
Traps that cost marks
- Double-dipping the spatula.
- Wax that is too hot and lifts skin.
- Waxing in the wrong direction.
- Waxing over moles without referral.
- Skipping the patch test.
- Treating clients on retinoids or recent peels.