Eyelash Technician cheat sheet

Each eyelash (cilium) has three phases: anagen (active growth, ~30-45 days for lashes), catagen (transition, ~2-3 weeks), and telogen (resting, ~100 days), after which the lash sheds and a new one begins.

Upper eyelid carries roughly 90-160 lashes arranged in 2-3 rows; lower eyelid carries roughly 70-80 lashes in 1-2 rows.

Average lash lifespan is about 3-5 months; approximately 1-5 lashes per eye shed naturally each day, so shedding after application is normal.

Lash length averages 6-12 mm on the upper lid and 5-8 mm on the lower lid; lash diameter is roughly 0.05-0.15 mm, with upper lashes thicker than lower.

The lash root sits in the hair follicle at a depth of about 2 mm near the eyelid margin; adhesive should never contact the skin or follicle, only the isolated natural lash.

The eyelid margin (gray line) separates the anterior lamella (skin, orbicularis oculi) from the posterior lamella (tarsal plate, conjunctiva); the meibomian gland orifices lie just behind the lash line.

The lacrimal system includes the puncta, canaliculi, lacrimal sac, and nasolacrimal duct; tears drain medially, so adhesive vapors near the medial canthus irritate more.

The cornea is avascular and relies on tears and the limbal vessels for oxygen; the blink reflex spreads tear film and clears debris, protecting the ocular surface.

Eyelash growth is influenced by genetics, hormones, age, and nutrition; thyroid dysfunction and chemotherapy can cause thinning or loss (madarosis).

Sanitation reduces visible soil and organic load; disinfection kills or inactivates most pathogenic microorganisms on inanimate surfaces; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.

Levels of disinfectant: low-level (quaternary ammonium) kills most bacteria and some viruses; intermediate-level (70-90% isopropyl alcohol) also kills mycobacteria; high-level (glutaraldehyde, ortho-phthalaldehyde) kills spores with sufficient contact time.

Hospital-grade tuberculocidal disinfectants are the minimum standard for implements that contact skin or lash adhesive residue; follow the label's contact time exactly (often 10 minutes).

Single-use items (lash strips, adhesive nozzles, microbrushes, under-eye pads, disposable mascara wands) must be discarded after each client and never reused.

Porous items that cannot be disinfected (cotton pads, wooden sticks, foam) are single-use; non-porous metal or glass tools can be disinfected if cleaned first.

Hand hygiene: wash with soap and water for at least 20 seconds before and after each client; alcohol-based hand rub is acceptable when hands are not visibly soiled.

Bloodborne pathogen exposure requires gloves, eye protection, and a spill kit; contaminated sharps go into a rigid sharps container, and blood-contact waste into a labeled biohazard bag.

Clean tools should be stored in a closed, labeled container separate from dirty tools; implement storage must prevent recontamination.

Patch test and consultation records, including consent and any adverse reaction, should be retained per local regulation (often 3-7 years).

Absolute contraindications include active eye infection (conjunctivitis, keratitis, blepharitis), recent eye surgery (typically within 6 months), and known allergy to cyanoacrylate or latex.

Relative contraindications include pregnancy, chemotherapy, thyroid disorders, diabetes, autoimmune disease, active eczema or psoriasis near the eye, and use of blood thinners; require physician clearance.

Patch testing: apply a small amount of adhesive behind the ear or on the inner forearm, leave 24-48 hours, and check for redness, swelling, itching, or blistering before full application.

Cyanoacrylate sensitization can develop after repeated exposure; once sensitized, reactions may worsen with each exposure, so a positive patch test is a permanent contraindication.

Consultation must document medical history, medications, prior lash or tint services, allergies, contact lens use, and expectations; obtain written informed consent.

Contact lens wearers should remove lenses before application and reinsert only after adhesive has fully cured (typically 24 hours).

Clients with watery or oily eyes, or those who rub eyes, swim, or use saunas frequently, have reduced retention and should be counseled before booking.

A positive reaction noted during or after application requires immediate removal, cool compress, and referral to a physician if symptoms persist or involve the eye.

Lash adhesive is a cyanoacrylate (usually ethyl or butyl cyanoacrylate) that cures by anionic polymerization when moisture (water vapor) is present.

Cure speed is measured in seconds: fast (0.5-1 s) suits humid, warm environments and experienced techs; medium (1-2 s) is general purpose; slow (2-3 s) suits dry climates and beginners.

Ideal working conditions are roughly 45-55% relative humidity and 20-22 °C (68-72 °F); high humidity accelerates cure and can cause shock curing, low humidity slows it.

Adhesive shelf life is short: unopened 6-12 months, opened 4-6 weeks; store upright in an airtight container away from light and heat, and never refrigerate or freeze.

Shake adhesive gently (never vigorously) before use; vigorous shaking introduces bubbles and shortens working time.

Viscosity affects flow and retention: thin adhesives wick quickly and suit fine lashes; thicker adhesives hold better but can clump and require more isolation.

Fumes are reduced by low-odor or low-fume formulations, but ventilation and a carbon-filtered fan remain the primary control; adhesive should not be used near the client's face without airflow.

Adhesive removers contain solvents (often gamma-butyrolactone or ethyl acetate) that dissolve cyanoacrylate; use only on the lash line and never on the skin or in the eye.

Classic (1:1) applies one extension to one natural lash; volume (2D-6D+) applies 2-6 light extensions to one natural lash, using lighter diameters (0.05-0.07 mm) to avoid overload.

Isolation is mandatory: each natural lash is separated with tweezers and the extension is attached only to that single lash, base to base, never to skin or neighboring lashes.

Attachment point: dip 1-2 mm of the extension base into adhesive and place it 0.5-1 mm from the eyelid margin, never touching the skin.

Lash mapping (e.g., doll, cat, kitten, natural) determines length distribution; lengths typically range from 6-15 mm, and curl (J, B, C, D, U) is chosen by eye shape and preference.

Weight rule: extension diameter and length must not exceed the natural lash's load capacity; thicker/longer extensions on fine lashes cause traction and premature shedding.

Cure time between lashes: wait for the adhesive to set (per product, usually 1-2 s) before releasing the lash to prevent sticking.

Common application errors: too much adhesive (clumping), too little (poor retention), placing too close to the lid (irritation), and applying to multiple lashes (traction alopecia).

Fill appointments are typically every 2-3 weeks; a full set is recommended when more than 50% of lashes have shed or been lost.

Removal must use a dedicated remover (cream or gel) applied with a microbrush to the adhesive bond, not to the skin; allow it to soften the bond, then gently slide the extension off.

Never pull, pick, or use acetone, nail polish remover, or oil-based products to remove extensions; these damage the natural lash and irritate the eye.

After removal, cleanse the lash line and inspect for irritation; document any reaction and advise the client to avoid eye makeup for 24 hours.

Aftercare: keep lashes dry for 24-48 hours after application; avoid steam, saunas, swimming, and sweating heavily during that period.

Cleanse lashes daily with a lash-safe foaming cleanser and a soft brush; rinse thoroughly and pat dry; avoid oil-based cleansers that weaken the bond.

Avoid waterproof mascara, eyelash curlers, and oil-based makeup removers; these break down adhesive and stress the natural lash.

Brush lashes gently with a clean spoolie daily; sleep on the back or use a silk pillowcase to reduce friction and lash distortion.

Maintenance schedule: fills every 2-3 weeks; advise clients to book before significant shedding to maintain a full look.

Scope of practice: lash technicians apply, fill, and remove extensions; they do not diagnose or treat eye disease and must refer medical concerns to an eye care professional.

Informed consent and a signed intake form documenting allergies, medications, and patch test results are standard records for every client.

Pricing should reflect time, product cost, and skill level; quote a full set and fill price separately, and disclose cancellation and late policies in writing.

Confidentiality: client health information is private and should be stored securely, whether on paper or digitally, per local privacy law.

Advertising must be truthful and not claim medical benefits or guaranteed results; avoid before/after images without written client consent.

Professional boundaries: refuse service when contraindicated, and document the refusal and referral.

Business records include income, expenses, product inventory, and continuing education; keep receipts for tax and licensing purposes.

Insurance: professional liability coverage is recommended and often required by landlords or licensing bodies; verify coverage for lash services.

Ventilation: use a local exhaust fan or carbon filter near the work area; adhesive fumes can cause headaches, dizziness, and respiratory irritation.

Personal protective equipment: nitrile gloves, eye protection, and a mask reduce exposure to adhesive and remover vapors; latex gloves are not a substitute for nitrile.

Ergonomics: adjust the bed and stool so the client's eyes are at a comfortable height; avoid prolonged neck flexion and take breaks to prevent musculoskeletal strain.

Chemical safety: store adhesives and removers away from heat, flames, and sunlight; keep safety data sheets (SDS) accessible for every chemical product.

First aid: adhesive in the eye requires immediate flushing with water for 15 minutes and medical attention; skin bonding requires remover or warm soapy water, never force.

Waste disposal: sharps in rigid containers, blood-contaminated waste in biohazard bags, and chemical waste per local regulations; never pour adhesive remover down the drain.

Fire safety: cyanoacrylate adhesives are flammable; keep a fire extinguisher rated for chemical fires and avoid open flames near the workstation.

Infection control compliance: follow local licensing rules for hand washing, tool disinfection logs, and client records; post licenses and inspection reports where required.