Facial Treatments and Product Selection
Standard service sequence
Consultation and consent → cleanse → analyze → exfoliate → steam (optional, 3–5 minutes, eyes protected) → extractions (only on pustules and comedones, never on inflamed cysts or moles) → massage → mask → tone → moisturize → sunscreen → document.
Massage movements
- Effleurage - gliding strokes, opens and closes the routine.
- Petrissage - kneading and lifting, deeper pressure.
- Tapotement - brisk tapping, stimulating; avoid on sensitive, couperose, or acne-inflamed skin.
- Friction and vibration - small circular or vibrating movements.
Strokes travel along muscle direction and drainage patterns and always respect the client's comfort. Massage is contraindicated over active acne, sunburn, recent injectables (within about 24 hours for Botox, longer for fillers per the injector), active cold sores, and undiagnosed lumps.
Ingredient families that drive product choice
- Humectants - glycerin, hyaluronic acid, sodium PCA; draw water in.
- Emollients - squalane, shea butter, fatty alcohols; soften and smooth.
- Occlusives - petrolatum, dimethicone; reduce water loss.
- Surfactants - cleanse; gentle non-ionic and amphoteric types suit sensitive skin.
- Exfoliants - AHAs (glycolic, lactic) are water-soluble; BHA (salicylic) is oil-soluble and preferred for oily, pore-clogged skin.
Masks
Clay and charcoal for oily, congested skin; gel and hydrating masks for dehydration and heat; modeling masks for firming and occlusion; paraffin for mature, dry skin - always tested for heat tolerance.
Worked example
A 34-year-old with combination skin, three pustules on the chin, and tight cheeks asks for a "deep-clean facial with lots of extractions." Plan: gentle cleanser, mild salicylic exfoliation, steam limited to the T-zone, extraction of the pustules only, no tapotement, hydrating gel mask, light moisturizer with SPF. The reasoning is barrier protection first - aggressive extraction on inflamed skin worsens inflammation and risks scarring.
Traps
Extracting cysts and moles; steaming the whole face when only the T-zone is congested; choosing a heavy occlusive for a dehydrated oily client; forgetting SPF after any exfoliation; skipping documentation of products used.