QQI Level 5 Beauty Therapy cheat sheet

Skin layers: epidermis (stratum corneum, granulosum, spinosum, basale), dermis (papillary and reticular), hypodermis (subcutaneous fat).

Epidermal turnover averages about 28 days; it lengthens with age and slows in mature or damaged skin.

The dermis holds collagen (tensile strength), elastin (recoil) and glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid (hydration).

Skin pH is mildly acidic at roughly 4.5-5.5; this acid mantle limits bacterial growth and supports barrier enzymes.

Contraindications to heat, massage or product use include active infection, open wounds, recent surgery, uncontrolled diabetes and active eczema or psoriasis.

Fitzpatrick phototypes I-VI classify sun-response: I always burns, never tans; VI rarely burns, deeply pigmented.

Lymphatic drainage follows superficial vessels to regional nodes (cervical, axillary, inguinal); swelling with heat, redness or pain is referred, not treated.

Nail plate is keratinised cells from the matrix; the lunula is visible matrix, the cuticle (eponychium) seals the proximal nail fold.

Hair growth cycles: anagen (growth), catagen (transition), telogen (rest); waxing targets anagen hairs for best regrowth results.

Standard analysis sequence: cleanse, magnified visual inspection under good light, palpation, then classification of skin type and condition.

Skin types are normal, dry, oily, combination and sensitive; conditions (dehydration, pigmentation, ageing, acne) sit on top of type.

T-zone oiliness with normal cheeks indicates combination skin; uniform shine and enlarged pores indicate oily skin.

Dehydration shows fine lines, tightness and dullness; true dryness shows flaking, rough texture and lack of oil, and needs lipid-rich products.

Sensitivity signs: visible capillaries, reactivity, stinging; avoid strong acids, coarse scrubs and high-fragrance products.

Wood's lamp: blue-white fluorescence suggests normal hydration, yellow-white suggests sebum, coral-red may indicate porphyrins from acne bacteria.

Grading of acne: comedones (non-inflammatory), papules and pustules (inflammatory), nodules and cysts (severe, refer).

Asymmetry, irregular border, uneven colour or diameter over 6 mm in a mole warrants medical referral, not cosmetic treatment.

A consultation record must capture personal details, medical history, medications, allergies, previous treatments, lifestyle and signed consent.

Contraindication screening precedes any product patch test or treatment decision; ambiguous answers are clarified before proceeding.

Record keeping follows data-protection principles: collect only what is needed, store securely, retain for the required period, allow client access.

Informed consent covers purpose, method, expected outcome, risks and alternatives; it is given voluntarily and can be withdrawn.

Allergy patch testing for tint and adhesive is performed 24-48 hours before first use, with the result documented.

Client care includes privacy (adequate draping), comfort (temperature, positioning), and clear explanation of each step.

Referral criteria: suspected infection, undiagnosed skin lesions, uncontrolled medical conditions, pregnancy-related cautions for certain actives or heat.

Aftercare advice is written and specific: home product use, sun protection, avoidance of heat or makeup for stated periods.

Facial sequence: consultation, cleansing, skin analysis, exfoliation, extraction (if indicated), massage, mask, tone, moisturise, protect.

Cleansing removes surface debris and makeup; a second cleanse or appropriate cleanser type (gel for oily, cream for dry) improves results.

Exfoliation options: mechanical (scrubs, brushes) and chemical (AHA lactic/glycolic, BHA salicylic); BHA suits oily and comedone-prone skin.

Steam softens comedones but is limited in time and avoided in rosacea, sensitivity and capillary damage.

Facial massage movements: effleurage, petrissage, tapotement, vibrations; direction follows muscle and lymphatic flow, avoiding active lesions.

Mask selection: clay for oil control, hydrating gel for dehydration, cream for dryness; leave-on time per manufacturer instructions.

Broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher is the final step in any daytime facial routine.

Electrical facial equipment (high frequency, galvanic, microcurrent) requires trained use, intact skin and correct intensity settings.

Manicure sequence: sanitise hands, assess nails and skin, shape with file in one direction, soak, cuticle work, massage, polish.

File coarse to fine and avoid back-and-forth sawing on natural nails, which causes splitting and peeling.

Cuticle work removes non-living tissue only; the living eponychium is not cut to prevent infection and portal entry.

Nail plate assessment: pitting, ridges, discolouration, onycholysis (lifting) or thickening may indicate pathology and require referral.

Pedicure adds foot soak, callus reduction with a file or paddle, and attention to fungal or bacterial signs between toes.

Single-use files, buffers and orange sticks, or fully disinfected implements, are required between clients.

Nail polish removal uses acetone-based remover for standard polish, non-acetone for acrylics and gels.

Contraindications: paronychia, fungal nail infection, warts, open cuts; these are not treated cosmetically and are referred.

Hair length for waxing should be about 5 mm, roughly two to three weeks of growth after shaving.

Wax types: hot (strip) wax for large areas, warm (non-strip) wax for sensitive or small areas, sugar paste for delicate skin.

Direction rule: apply wax in the direction of hair growth, remove against the growth, holding skin taut.

Patch test and contraindication check precede waxing; isotretinoin use, recent chemical peel, sunburn or active infection are contraindications.

Post-wax care: soothing lotion, no heat, sun, chlorinated pools or perfumed products for 24-48 hours.

Ingrown hairs are managed by exfoliation and moisturising between appointments; persistent infection is referred.

Hygiene: never double-dip applicators, wear gloves, dispose of strips after single use, and sanitise the trolley between clients.

Contraindication for electrolysis or laser: pregnancy, photosensitising medication, recent tanning, keloid tendency.

Skin preparation before make-up: cleanse, tone, moisturise, prime; primer improves hold and smooths texture.

Foundation shade matching is done in natural light on the jawline, not the hand.

Colour theory: complementary colours neutralise (green corrects redness, peach corrects blue-grey, lavender corrects sallow).

Face shapes and contouring: highlight to bring forward, shade to recede; blend along natural bone structure.

Eyebrow shaping follows the golden ratio: start at the inner corner, arch at the outer iris, end at the outer corner.

Eyelash tint and brow tint require patch testing 24-48 hours before and careful avoidance of the eye itself.

Strip lashes and extensions need appropriate adhesive, clean tools and removal before 24 hours with proper remover.

Hygiene: sharpen pencils before each client, use disposable wands and spatulas, and never share mascara or gloss applicators.

Cleaning removes visible soil; disinfection kills most pathogens on inanimate objects; sterilisation destroys all microorganisms including spores.

Hand washing with soap and water for at least 20 seconds is the primary infection-control measure between clients.

PPE: gloves for waxing, tinting, nail work and blood contact; apron or uniform changed daily.

Single-use items include files, orange sticks, spatulas, cotton pads, wax strips; reusable tools are washed, disinfected and dried.

Waste segregation: sharps in rigid containers, contaminated waste bagged, chemical waste per safety data sheet.

Electrical equipment is PAT tested; cables are checked for damage and equipment is used away from water.

Slips and trips: spills cleaned immediately, floors dried, walkways kept clear, wet-floor signs used.

Fire and emergency procedures: extinguisher types, evacuation routes, assembly point, first-aid kit location and trained first-aider.

Professional boundaries: punctuality, confidentiality, appropriate dress, avoiding personal or social media disclosure of client information.

Booking systems record client details, treatment history, patch test dates and staff allocation.

Complaint handling: listen, acknowledge, investigate, offer a remedy, record the outcome and follow up.

Retail and service pricing considers cost of products, time, overheads and competitor positioning.

Client retention depends on consistent service quality, realistic expectations and clear aftercare.

Team roles: reception, senior therapist, junior therapist, salon manager; escalation path for clinical or complaint issues.

Record retention and data protection: store records securely, restrict access, dispose of records securely at end of retention.

Continuing professional development and insurance are maintained; scope of practice is not exceeded.

Ingredient function: humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) draw water, emollients (oils, esters) soften, occlusives (petrolatum, silicones) seal.

Actives: retinol (cell turnover, photosensitivity), vitamin C (antioxidant, instability), niacinamide (barrier, sebum), AHAs/BHAs (exfoliation).

Preservatives are required in water-containing products; parabens, phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol are common.

Cosmetic product labelling: ingredient list (INCI), batch number, PAO symbol or best-before date, manufacturer details.

Patch testing and shelf-life: opened products degrade; store away from heat and light and note expiry.

Retail conversation follows need identification, benefit-led explanation, demonstration, sample and follow-up.

Contraindicated combinations: retinol with strong acids, benzoyl peroxide with vitamin C, multiple exfoliants in one routine.

Product recommendation must match skin type, condition, sensitivity, budget and client's routine compliance.