Perm on previously coloured hair

I would carry out a patch test at least 48 hours before, a porosity test, an elasticity test, a strand test with the intended perm solution, and a visual check of the mid-lengths and ends. The porosity result - hair sinking quickly - shows high porosity, so the cuticle is raised and will absorb solution unevenly and lose moisture quickly. The elasticity result is more serious: a normal wet strand stretches about 50% and returns, but hers stretches only about 35%, returns slowly and snaps when stretched further. That suggests reduced elasticity and some bond damage, likely from the recent tint and previous wear. Perming chemically breaks and rebuilds disulphide bonds, so applying a perm to already compromised hair risks breakage, poor curl formation and a frizzy result. The tint was only three weeks ago, which also means the hair has not had time to settle. My analysis would lead me to recommend delaying the perm, carrying out protein/moisture treatments and a trim, and re-testing in four to six weeks.

I would not proceed today on the evidence of the elasticity test. The professional judgement is that the hair is already under stress, and a two-hour appointment does not create more tensile strength. I would explain the result to the client and offer a structured alternative: a trim of the weak ends, a course of bond-building and moisture treatments over four to six weeks, and a re-test. If, after re-testing, the strand test shows a acceptable curl and no snapping, I would use the tinted-hair formula, choose larger rods for a looser, more modern wave rather than a tight 1980s spiral, and process conservatively, checking a test curl every few minutes. I would avoid overlapping the most porous mid-lengths and would not apply solution to the scalp if there were any irritation. I would book a longer appointment and charge for the additional assessment. If she refuses to wait, I would decline the perm and document why. Proceeding today would be a technical gamble with her hair and the salon's reputation.

I would explain that the sulphate shampoo she has bought is too stripping for freshly permed, porous hair and would encourage frizz; she should use a sulphate-free, moisture-balanced shampoo and conditioner, and wait about 48 to 72 hours before the first shampoo so the curl pattern can settle. The bristle brush can rough up the cuticle; a wide-tooth comb on damp hair is gentler. She needs to avoid heat and tight ponytails, use a leave-in conditioner or curl cream, and return for a trim and maintenance appointment in six to eight weeks. I would also address the 'big bouncy curls' expectation: curl size is determined by rod diameter, hair length and weight, and fine porous hair will not hold a heavy 1980s spiral without support. Her friend's frizz is a warning sign about aftercare and over-processing, not proof that perms always fail. I would give written aftercare instructions, record that she understood them, and book a follow-up so problems are caught early.