QQI Level 5 Hairdressing cheat sheet

The hair shaft has three layers: cuticle (protective outer scales), cortex (bulk, contains melanin and keratin bonds), and medulla (central core, may be absent in fine hair).

The hair growth cycle has three phases: anagen (active growth, 2-7 years), catagen (transition, 2-3 weeks), and telogen (resting/shedding, 3 months); 80-90% of scalp hair is normally in anagen.

The pH scale runs 0-14; hair and skin are naturally acidic (pH 4.5-5.5). The isoelectric point of hair is pH 3.67, where it is least swollen; alkaline products swell the cuticle and raise porosity.

Disulfide bonds (cystine) give hair strength and are broken by reducing agents (thioglycolate) in perming and by alkaline color/lightener; they are re-formed by oxidation (neutraliser).

Hydrogen bonds are broken by water and heat and re-form on cooling; this underpins wet-setting, blow-drying, and thermal styling.

Salt bonds are broken by changes in pH and re-form when pH is restored; they contribute to curl retention in wet styling.

Porosity describes the cuticle's ability to absorb moisture: low porosity resists product, high porosity absorbs and loses moisture quickly and needs gentler chemical processing.

Elasticity is the hair's ability to stretch and return to its original length; normal hair stretches up to 30% when wet. Low elasticity indicates damage and contra-indicates strong chemical services.

A strand test determines processing time and product suitability before a full chemical service; a patch test (skin test) checks for allergy to colour or perm chemicals and is required 48 hours before first application.

Hand washing with soap and water for at least 20 seconds is the single most effective hygiene measure; alcohol-based hand rub is used when hands are not visibly soiled.

The salon must display the current Safety Statement and a risk assessment under the Safety, Health and Welfare at Work Act 2005; employees must be consulted and trained.

COSHH-style local rules apply: keep chemicals in original labelled containers, never decant into unmarked bottles, and store oxidisers away from reducing agents and heat.

Wet floors must be marked with a warning sign immediately and cleaned up; slips, trips and falls are the most common salon accidents.

Electrical equipment must be PAT tested (portable appliance testing) at recommended intervals; check plugs and leads before use and report defects.

Blood and body fluid spillages are treated as infectious; wear gloves, absorb with disposable paper, clean with detergent then disinfect with a chlorine-releasing product, and dispose of waste as clinical waste.

Tools must be cleaned (detergent) then disinfected (e.g., barbicide or hospital-grade disinfectant) after each client; porous items such as nail files and orange sticks are single-use.

A patch test for oxidative colour must be repeated after any gap in colouring, after a COVID-19 infection or vaccination if salon policy requires, and whenever a new brand is used.

Fire safety: know the location of extinguishers and exits, keep exits clear, and never use water on electrical fires; CO2 extinguishers are suitable for electrical equipment.

A consultation follows a structured sequence: greet, gather personal details and history, discuss expectations, analyse hair and scalp, recommend, agree and record, then confirm consent.

Contra-indications to chemical services include recent henna (metallic salts), a positive patch test, scalp abrasions or infection, pregnancy (relative), and a history of allergic reaction.

Hair analysis records density, texture, porosity, elasticity, scalp condition, natural colour level, percentage of grey, and previous chemical history.

The natural depth scale runs 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde); identify the client's natural level under good light before selecting a target shade.

Questioning should move from open ("What do you dislike about your hair?") to closed ("Is this the length you want?") to confirm understanding.

Non-verbal communication (eye contact, open posture, mirror use) supports verbal explanation; show the client the length or colour on a swatch or strand before committing.

Record the consultation: products, formulations, timings, and client preferences, and have the client sign or acknowledge the record for chemical services.

Barriers to communication include jargon, noise, hearing or language difficulty, and anxiety; adapt by using visual aids, simple language, and an interpreter if needed.

Shampoo surfactants have a hydrophilic (water-loving) head and a lipophilic (oil-loving) tail; the tail lifts sebum and dirt, which are rinsed away in water.

Wet the hair thoroughly before shampoo; dilute shampoo if it is concentrated, and emulsify in the palms before applying to the scalp.

Massage the scalp with fingertips (not nails) in a rhythmic movement; this stimulates blood flow and lifts debris without damaging the cuticle.

Rinse until the water runs clear; residual shampoo dulls hair and can irritate the scalp.

Conditioner is applied mid-lengths to ends, avoiding the scalp unless the product is designed for scalp use; leave for the manufacturer's time then rinse.

A surface conditioner closes the cuticle and adds shine; a deep (treatment) conditioner penetrates the cortex and is used for damaged or porous hair.

Scalp conditions to recognise: pityriasis (dandruff), seborrhoeic dermatitis, psoriasis (silvery plaques), and tinea capitis (ringworm, contagious - do not treat, refer).

Contra-indications to scalp massage include cuts, abrasions, recent chemical services, and scalp infections; refer suspected infections to a GP.

Water temperature should be comfortable (warm, not hot); hot water strips colour and irritates the scalp.

Cutting angles determine graduation: 0° (one length), 45° (graduation), 90° (uniform layer), 180° (long graduation).

Sectioning controls the cut: divide hair into four or five sections and sub-section to the width of the scissors' cutting edge for accuracy.

Tension must be consistent; uneven tension causes an uneven line. Cut with the scissors parallel to the subsection for a blunt line.

A blunt (club) cut creates a solid weight line; point cutting, slicing, and thinning reduce weight and soften the perimeter.

Elevation and overdirection change the shape: overdirecting hair to a stationary guide builds length and weight toward the guide.

Blow-drying: rough-dry to 80-90% dry, then use a nozzle and round brush; direct airflow from root to tip to smooth the cuticle.

Thermal styling tools should be used on dry hair; protect with a heat protectant and keep the tool moving to avoid scorching.

Setting lotion and mousse are applied to wet hair for wet-setting; the hair is dried under a hood and cooled before brushing out to set the curl.

Oxidative (permanent) colour uses a developer (hydrogen peroxide) to lift melanin and deposit dye; it lightens and deposits in one step.

Semi-permanent colour deposits only, lasts 6-8 washes, and uses no developer or a low-volume one; it cannot lighten.

Temporary colour coats the cuticle and washes out in 1-2 shampoos.

Developer volumes: 3% (10 vol) deposit only; 6% (20 vol) 1 level lift; 9% (30 vol) 2-3 levels; 12% (40 vol) 3-4 levels. Use the lowest volume that achieves the target.

The law of colour: the underlying pigment exposed when lightening is red (levels 4-5), orange (6-7), and yellow (8-9); neutralise with the opposite tone.

Strand test and patch test are mandatory before a full application; record formula, developer, and timing.

Apply colour to dry, unwashed hair unless the manufacturer states otherwise; section neatly and work from the back to the front for even processing.

Lighteners (bleach) are mixed with developer; do not use on scalp if the client has a sensitive scalp, and never exceed the manufacturer's maximum processing time.

After colouring, use a colour-safe shampoo and conditioner; advise the client to avoid chlorinated pools and hot water to prolong colour.

Perming is a two-stage chemical process: reduction (thioglycolate) breaks disulfide bonds, then oxidation (neutraliser) re-forms them in the new shape.

Perm lotion strength is selected by hair condition and porosity: normal hair uses normal strength, tinted or porous hair uses mild, and resistant hair uses strong.

The perm rod size determines curl size: small rods give tight curls, large rods give loose waves; the rod must be no wider than the hair's natural curl diameter for a good result.

Winding tension must be even; uneven tension produces uneven curl. End papers protect the ends and control the winding.

Processing time is determined by a test curl, not by the clock alone; check every 2-3 minutes after the minimum time.

Rinse thoroughly (at least 5 minutes) before applying neutraliser; residual reducing agent prevents the curl from setting.

Neutraliser is applied for the manufacturer's time (usually 5-10 minutes), then the rods are removed and the hair is rinsed.

Contra-indications include a positive patch test, recent henna or metallic salts, damaged or porous hair, and a scalp that is broken or infected.

After a perm, advise the client not to shampoo for 48 hours and to use a sulphate-free shampoo to preserve the curl.

Upstyling uses a combination of backcombing (teasing), smoothing, pinning, and setting to create a shape that holds.

Prepare the hair with a setting product or mousse and dry it completely; damp hair will not hold a style.

Backcombing creates volume by pushing hair toward the scalp with a comb; backcomb gently and only where volume is needed to avoid damage.

Pin curls and barrel curls are secured with clips or pins; the direction of the curl determines the finished movement.

A French pleat (roll) is built by sectioning the hair, backcombing the crown, and rolling the side sections into a vertical roll secured with pins.

A chignon is formed by gathering the hair into a ponytail, twisting or plaiting it, and pinning it into a bun at the nape or crown.

Balance and proportion: the style should complement the client's face shape and head shape; check from all angles and in a mirror.

Use kirby grips (bobby pins) with the wavy side down and the closed end toward the scalp for secure hold; criss-cross pins for strength.

Long hair should be detangled from ends to roots before styling; use a wide-tooth comb on wet hair.

A salon's break-even point is fixed costs divided by the contribution per service (price minus variable cost per service).

Retail margin is (retail price minus cost price) divided by retail price, expressed as a percentage.

Client records must be kept securely and in line with GDPR; clients have the right to access their data and to have inaccurate data corrected.

Customer service standards include greeting within 30 seconds, offering refreshments, and confirming the client's expectations before starting.

Complaints should be handled with the LEARN model: Listen, Empathise, Apologise, Resolve, Notify (record and follow up).

A CV for a hairdressing role should list qualifications (e.g., QQI Level 5), practical skills, and any salon work experience, with referees available on request.

Employability skills include punctuality, personal presentation, teamwork, and the ability to follow salon protocols.

Social media marketing must respect client confidentiality; obtain written consent before posting images of clients' hair.

A work experience placement should have a written agreement setting out hours, supervision, and learning outcomes.

Keep a reflective journal or logbook recording daily tasks, new skills, and feedback; this supports the QQI portfolio of evidence.

Professional development includes keeping up to date with new products, attending workshops, and reading trade publications.

Continuing professional development (CPD) can be recorded in hours or points; many insurers and salons require evidence of annual CPD.

Insurance: check that salon insurance covers learners and that the learner works under supervision as required.

Health and safety induction on the first day should cover fire exits, first aid, chemical storage, and reporting accidents.

Feedback should be sought actively and acted upon; record it in the logbook and discuss with the workplace mentor and college tutor.

Professional boundaries: maintain client confidentiality, do not accept gifts that could compromise judgement, and follow the salon's social media policy.