IICRC RCT cheat sheet

Identification order: weave structure, foundation (warp/weft), pile fiber, knot type, then region/period attribution; structure outranks pattern because patterns are copied across regions.

Hand-knotted: asymmetric (Persian/Senneh) or symmetric (Turkish/Ghiordes) knots tied to warp; weft shoots visible on back; fringe is warp ends, not sewn trim.

Machine-made: power-loomed with uniform loop or cut pile, latex/action backing or glued weft, fringe often sewn or glued on; back shows grid uniformity, no knot heads.

Flatweave family: Kilim (slit tapestry, no pile), Soumak (wrapped weft, raised diagonal), Jajim, and Navajo/Durie; no pile height, so cleaning is surface-focused.

Tufted: pile yarn shot through a primary cloth, anchored by latex plus secondary backing; no warp/weft foundation; shear marks and even pile height are typical.

Fiber ID field tests: burn (protein/cellulose/synthetic smell and ash), wet-strength, and solvent solubility; note results in the file before any cleaning decision.

Wool vs silk: silk has high luster, cool hand, and finer, longer filaments; a wet rub test on a hidden area distinguishes silk (loses strength) from wool.

Tribal vs city attribution: tribal rugs show irregular weave, abrash, and wool foundation; city rugs show fine uniform knots, cotton foundation, and drawn curvilinear design.

Wool: protein fiber, amphoteric, tolerates mild acid to neutral; wet strength good but shrinks and felts with heat plus mechanical action; lanolin removed by strong alkali.

Silk: protein filament, weakest when wet (loses roughly 20 percent strength), sensitive to alkali and perspiration salts; never agitate wet silk pile.

Cotton foundation: cellulose, strong wet, but swells and shrinks; prolonged wetting risks foundation shrinkage and warp distortion on hand-knotted pieces.

Viscose/rayon (art silk): regenerated cellulose, low wet strength, prone to pile distortion, cellulosic browning, and shrinkage; clean with minimal moisture and fast dry.

Synthetics (polypropylene, polyester, nylon): oleophilic and hydrophobic; polypropylene is solution-dyed and nearly stain-proof but attracts oil soil and heat-sets wrinkles.

Knot density: count knots per linear inch in both directions; KPSI = warp knots x weft knots; higher KPSI correlates with finer yarn and slower drying.

Pile direction: pile leans toward one end (usually the bottom); brushing or vacuuming against pile raises nap and changes light reflection, so work with pile.

Construction layers to record: pile, foundation, backing/latex, fringe, selvage/side cord, and any glued or sewn repairs; each layer limits cleaning method.

Record before cleaning: dimensions, fiber, construction, origin, fringe type, colorfastness, pile height, and existing damage with photos dated and signed.

Colorfastness test: apply test solution to a hidden area on each dye lot, blot on white towel for 10 minutes, and check for dye transfer before proceeding.

Damage inventory to document: dry rot, pet damage, moth holes, burn marks, tears, prior repairs, urine/water history, and any latex or backing breakdown.

Check for pre-existing stains under raking light and mark them on a diagram; undisclosed stains are the most common damage-claim source.

Urine and water history: test pH across the rug surface; high alkaline readings suggest urine salts; check backing and pad for odor and delamination.

Fringe and selvage check: test fringe for cellulosic vs synthetic, look for broken warp ends, and note any sewn-on fringe that may release in water.

Stability check: lift a corner; dry rot shows as foundation that cracks or crumbles; such rugs are flagged no-wet-clean and referred for restoration.

Written authorization: signed work order listing approved methods, limits, and pre-existing conditions; no signature, no cleaning.

Set expectations in writing: cleaning removes soil and improves appearance; it does not guarantee removal of every stain, dye bleed, or odor.

Value framing: hand-knotted and antique rugs are priced by knot count, age, and origin; explain why method choice differs from wall-to-wall carpet.

Risk disclosure: list known risks for the fiber (bleeding, shrinkage, browning, pile distortion) and get acknowledgment before starting.

Quote structure: separate standard cleaning, specialty treatment (urine, flood, dye bleed), and restoration referral; avoid open-ended pricing.

Turnaround planning: hand-knotted rugs typically need 3 to 7 days of controlled drying plus finishing; schedule pickup and delivery around that window.

Referral rules: structural repair, reweaving, and severe dye correction go to a specialist; document the referral in the client file.

Post-delivery walkthrough: inspect with the client under raking light, review the work order, and record any remaining conditions on the signed receipt.

Communication of odor: explain that odor may return as the rug rehydrates; set a re-inspection window rather than promising one-pass removal.

Soil types: particulate (sand, grit), oily (grease, track-off), and bonded (sugars, proteins); each needs a different chemistry, so identify before choosing a product.

pH scale rule: protein stains (blood, milk, egg) respond to neutral to mildly acidic; tannin stains (coffee, tea, wine) respond to acid; oily soil responds to alkaline or solvent.

Wool is amphoteric: it tolerates mild acid and mild alkali but is damaged by strong alkali (pH above 10) and by high heat plus moisture.

Urine chemistry: fresh urine is acidic, then bacterial action raises pH toward alkaline and produces ammonia and salts; treat with oxidizing or enzyme chemistry matched to pH.

Oxidizers: hydrogen peroxide and sodium percarbonate brighten cellulosic and protein stains; test first on silk, wool, and any dyed pile because they can strip color.

Reducers: sodium metabisulfite and thiourea dioxide reduce oxidized dyes and rust; they also risk color loss, so use only with a test and short dwell.

Solvents: dry solvents dissolve oils without water; they do not remove water-soluble sugars or salts and can carry dye, so test for bleed.

Dwell and rinse rule: leave chemistry on the pile only as long as needed, then rinse to neutral; residue attracts soil and can cause browning or yellowing.

Method ladder: dry soil removal (vacuum/beater), dry cleaning (solvent or absorbent powder), then wet cleaning (shampoo, rotary, extraction, hand wash).

Dry soil removal first: beat or vacuum the back and face to remove grit; grit left in the pile abrades fibers during any wet agitation.

Hand wash (full immersion) is the gentlest deep clean for hand-knotted wool: controlled bath, mild detergent, soft brush, thorough rinse, controlled dry.

Hot water extraction: high pressure and heat raise risk of shrinkage, bleeding, and browning; use low pressure, low heat, and fast dry strokes on wool.

Rotary shampoo and bonnet cleaning are surface methods; they leave residue and are unsuitable for delicate, silk, or antique rugs.

Fringe cleaning: use a soft brush and mild detergent, avoid soaking the foundation, and dry fringe flat with air movement to prevent browning.

Spotting toolkit: white towels, spotting board, weighted blotter, and pH test strips; never scrub a stain, blot from the edge inward.

Equipment check: verify extraction vacuum, water temperature, and solution pH before starting; record settings in the job file.

Silk and art-silk rugs: no wet immersion; use low-moisture solvent or dry methods, blot spills, and dry quickly to avoid watermarks and pile distortion.

Antique and collectible rugs: clean only what is needed; over-cleaning removes abrash and patina; document every step and refer structural work.

Navajo and Southwest weavings: wool, handspun, natural dyes; avoid strong alkali and high heat; test dyes for bleed and dry flat to prevent warp shift.

Kilim and flatweave: no pile to protect; wet cleaning can shrink or distort; use surface cleaning and controlled drying with even weight.

Tufted and machine-made rugs: latex and secondary backing can delaminate with heat and excess water; keep moisture low and dry fast.

Fur and hair-on rugs: leather or hide backing; water causes hardening and cracking; use dry methods and condition the hide.

Prayer and directional rugs: note orientation and design symmetry; cleaning must preserve fringe direction and pile lay.

Outdoor and synthetic rugs: solution-dyed polypropylene tolerates water and mild detergent; avoid high heat, which sets wrinkles and warps backing.

Bleed risk factors: water, heat, alkaline pH, long dwell, and mechanical action; the more of these present, the higher the risk of dye migration.

Test before cleaning: apply the intended solution to a hidden area on each color, blot with white towel, and check for transfer after 10 minutes.

Natural dyes (madder, indigo, cochineal) are often less stable than synthetic dyes; antique rugs with abrash need short dwell and cool water.

Red and blue dyes bleed most often; dark reds, purples, and deep blues are flagged for acid-side testing and low-moisture methods.

If bleed occurs: stop, blot, and flush with cool water; do not apply heat or alkali; call a dye-correction specialist and document the event.

Color loss from oxidizers or reducers is irreversible; test every dye lot, and never use bleach or high-alkaline products on wool or silk.

Prevention: keep pH near neutral, limit dwell, control water temperature, and dry quickly with air movement to stop wicking.

Fringe and selvage are common bleed paths; protect them with towels and keep them out of standing water.

Drying goal: dry within 24 to 48 hours; slow drying causes browning, mildew, delamination, and odor.

Airflow first: use fans and dehumidifiers; moving air removes moisture faster than heat and is safer for dyes and fibers.

Dry flat or on a rack with support; never hang a wet hand-knotted rug, which distorts the warp and stretches the foundation.

Cellulosic browning: cotton foundation and viscose pile brown with slow drying; dry face-up with air under the rug and avoid stacking.

Temperature rule: keep ambient air moderate; high heat sets wrinkles, shrinks wool, and accelerates dye migration.

Fringe drying: comb fringe straight, dry flat with airflow, and check for wicking dye before final inspection.

Moisture check: use a moisture meter on pile and foundation; do not deliver until readings match the dry standard for the fiber.

Post-dry inspection: look for ripples, shrinkage, pile distortion, and new stains; correct or document before delivery.

Finishing steps: groom pile with the lay, comb fringe, trim loose ends, and correct any distortion while the rug is still slightly damp.

Pile grooming: brush in the direction of pile lay; against the lay raises nap and produces a dull, uneven appearance.

Inspection checklist: color, pile height, fringe, selvage, odor, stains, and structural damage; compare against pre-inspection photos.

Raking light reveals ripples, waviness, and shadow stains that flat light hides; inspect from both ends of the rug.

Shrinkage check: measure length and width against the pre-cleaning record; note any change in the file.

Odor check: smell the rug after drying; residual odor means re-treatment or referral, not delivery.

Delivery documentation: signed receipt with before/after photos and any remaining conditions; this closes the damage-claim window.

Follow-up: schedule a check within 7 days for rugs with prior urine, flood, or dye issues.

PPE: nitrile gloves, eye protection, and respiratory protection when using solvents or powders; read the SDS for every chemical.

Ventilation: solvents and oxidizers require moving air; never mix chemicals, and store them away from heat and sunlight.

Wet-floor and slip hazards: post signs, keep walkways dry, and use non-slip mats around wash areas.

Ergonomics: lift rugs with two people or a cart; wet hand-knotted rugs are heavy, and back strain is a common injury.

Documentation: signed work order, pre-inspection photos, test results, product names and dilutions, drying records, and delivery receipt.

Chemical records: log product, dilution, pH, dwell time, and area treated for every job; this supports both quality control and claims.

Client health: ask about allergies, asthma, and pets; disclose fragrance and solvent use before cleaning.

Waste and runoff: dispose of wash water and spotting chemicals per local rules; do not dump dye-laden water into storm drains.

Identification order: weave structure, foundation (warp/weft), pile fiber, knot type, then region/period attribution; structure outranks pattern because patterns are copied across regions.

Hand-knotted: asymmetric (Persian/Senneh) or symmetric (Turkish/Ghiordes) knots tied to warp; weft shoots visible on back; fringe is warp ends, not sewn trim.

Machine-made: power-loomed with uniform loop or cut pile, latex/action backing or glued weft, fringe often sewn or glued on; back shows grid uniformity, no knot heads.

Flatweave family: Kilim (slit tapestry, no pile), Soumak (wrapped weft, raised diagonal), Jajim, and Navajo/Durie; no pile height, so cleaning is surface-focused.

Tufted: pile yarn shot through a primary cloth, anchored by latex plus secondary backing; no warp/weft foundation; shear marks and even pile height are typical.

Fiber ID field tests: burn (protein/cellulose/synthetic smell and ash), wet-strength, and solvent solubility; note results in the file before any cleaning decision.

Wool vs silk: silk has high luster, cool hand, and finer, longer filaments; a wet rub test on a hidden area distinguishes silk (loses strength) from wool.

Tribal vs city attribution: tribal rugs show irregular weave, abrash, and wool foundation; city rugs show fine uniform knots, cotton foundation, and drawn curvilinear design.

Wool: protein fiber, amphoteric, tolerates mild acid to neutral; wet strength good but shrinks and felts with heat plus mechanical action; lanolin removed by strong alkali.

Silk: protein filament, weakest when wet (loses roughly 20 percent strength), sensitive to alkali and perspiration salts; never agitate wet silk pile.

Cotton foundation: cellulose, strong wet, but swells and shrinks; prolonged wetting risks foundation shrinkage and warp distortion on hand-knotted pieces.

Viscose/rayon (art silk): regenerated cellulose, low wet strength, prone to pile distortion, cellulosic browning, and shrinkage; clean with minimal moisture and fast dry.

Synthetics (polypropylene, polyester, nylon): oleophilic and hydrophobic; polypropylene is solution-dyed and nearly stain-proof but attracts oil soil and heat-sets wrinkles.

Knot density: count knots per linear inch in both directions; KPSI = warp knots x weft knots; higher KPSI correlates with finer yarn and slower drying.

Pile direction: pile leans toward one end (usually the bottom); brushing or vacuuming against pile raises nap and changes light reflection, so work with pile.

Construction layers to record: pile, foundation, backing/latex, fringe, selvage/side cord, and any glued or sewn repairs; each layer limits cleaning method.

Record before cleaning: dimensions, fiber, construction, origin, fringe type, colorfastness, pile height, and existing damage with photos dated and signed.

Colorfastness test: apply test solution to a hidden area on each dye lot, blot on white towel for 10 minutes, and check for dye transfer before proceeding.

Damage inventory to document: dry rot, pet damage, moth holes, burn marks, tears, prior repairs, urine/water history, and any latex or backing breakdown.

Check for pre-existing stains under raking light and mark them on a diagram; undisclosed stains are the most common damage-claim source.

Urine and water history: test pH across the rug surface; high alkaline readings suggest urine salts; check backing and pad for odor and delamination.

Fringe and selvage check: test fringe for cellulosic vs synthetic, look for broken warp ends, and note any sewn-on fringe that may release in water.

Stability check: lift a corner; dry rot shows as foundation that cracks or crumbles; such rugs are flagged no-wet-clean and referred for restoration.

Written authorization: signed work order listing approved methods, limits, and pre-existing conditions; no signature, no cleaning.

Set expectations in writing: cleaning removes soil and improves appearance; it does not guarantee removal of every stain, dye bleed, or odor.

Value framing: hand-knotted and antique rugs are priced by knot count, age, and origin; explain why method choice differs from wall-to-wall carpet.

Risk disclosure: list known risks for the fiber (bleeding, shrinkage, browning, pile distortion) and get acknowledgment before starting.

Quote structure: separate standard cleaning, specialty treatment (urine, flood, dye bleed), and restoration referral; avoid open-ended pricing.

Turnaround planning: hand-knotted rugs typically need 3 to 7 days of controlled drying plus finishing; schedule pickup and delivery around that window.

Referral rules: structural repair, reweaving, and severe dye correction go to a specialist; document the referral in the client file.

Post-delivery walkthrough: inspect with the client under raking light, review the work order, and record any remaining conditions on the signed receipt.

Communication of odor: explain that odor may return as the rug rehydrates; set a re-inspection window rather than promising one-pass removal.

Soil types: particulate (sand, grit), oily (grease, track-off), and bonded (sugars, proteins); each needs a different chemistry, so identify before choosing a product.

pH scale rule: protein stains (blood, milk, egg) respond to neutral to mildly acidic; tannin stains (coffee, tea, wine) respond to acid; oily soil responds to alkaline or solvent.

Wool is amphoteric: it tolerates mild acid and mild alkali but is damaged by strong alkali (pH above 10) and by high heat plus moisture.

Urine chemistry: fresh urine is acidic, then bacterial action raises pH toward alkaline and produces ammonia and salts; treat with oxidizing or enzyme chemistry matched to pH.

Oxidizers: hydrogen peroxide and sodium percarbonate brighten cellulosic and protein stains; test first on silk, wool, and any dyed pile because they can strip color.

Reducers: sodium metabisulfite and thiourea dioxide reduce oxidized dyes and rust; they also risk color loss, so use only with a test and short dwell.

Solvents: dry solvents dissolve oils without water; they do not remove water-soluble sugars or salts and can carry dye, so test for bleed.

Dwell and rinse rule: leave chemistry on the pile only as long as needed, then rinse to neutral; residue attracts soil and can cause browning or yellowing.

Method ladder: dry soil removal (vacuum/beater), dry cleaning (solvent or absorbent powder), then wet cleaning (shampoo, rotary, extraction, hand wash).

Dry soil removal first: beat or vacuum the back and face to remove grit; grit left in the pile abrades fibers during any wet agitation.

Hand wash (full immersion) is the gentlest deep clean for hand-knotted wool: controlled bath, mild detergent, soft brush, thorough rinse, controlled dry.

Hot water extraction: high pressure and heat raise risk of shrinkage, bleeding, and browning; use low pressure, low heat, and fast dry strokes on wool.

Rotary shampoo and bonnet cleaning are surface methods; they leave residue and are unsuitable for delicate, silk, or antique rugs.

Fringe cleaning: use a soft brush and mild detergent, avoid soaking the foundation, and dry fringe flat with air movement to prevent browning.

Spotting toolkit: white towels, spotting board, weighted blotter, and pH test strips; never scrub a stain, blot from the edge inward.

Equipment check: verify extraction vacuum, water temperature, and solution pH before starting; record settings in the job file.

Silk and art-silk rugs: no wet immersion; use low-moisture solvent or dry methods, blot spills, and dry quickly to avoid watermarks and pile distortion.

Antique and collectible rugs: clean only what is needed; over-cleaning removes abrash and patina; document every step and refer structural work.

Navajo and Southwest weavings: wool, handspun, natural dyes; avoid strong alkali and high heat; test dyes for bleed and dry flat to prevent warp shift.

Kilim and flatweave: no pile to protect; wet cleaning can shrink or distort; use surface cleaning and controlled drying with even weight.

Tufted and machine-made rugs: latex and secondary backing can delaminate with heat and excess water; keep moisture low and dry fast.

Fur and hair-on rugs: leather or hide backing; water causes hardening and cracking; use dry methods and condition the hide.

Prayer and directional rugs: note orientation and design symmetry; cleaning must preserve fringe direction and pile lay.

Outdoor and synthetic rugs: solution-dyed polypropylene tolerates water and mild detergent; avoid high heat, which sets wrinkles and warps backing.

Bleed risk factors: water, heat, alkaline pH, long dwell, and mechanical action; the more of these present, the higher the risk of dye migration.

Test before cleaning: apply the intended solution to a hidden area on each color, blot with white towel, and check for transfer after 10 minutes.

Natural dyes (madder, indigo, cochineal) are often less stable than synthetic dyes; antique rugs with abrash need short dwell and cool water.

Red and blue dyes bleed most often; dark reds, purples, and deep blues are flagged for acid-side testing and low-moisture methods.

If bleed occurs: stop, blot, and flush with cool water; do not apply heat or alkali; call a dye-correction specialist and document the event.

Color loss from oxidizers or reducers is irreversible; test every dye lot, and never use bleach or high-alkaline products on wool or silk.

Prevention: keep pH near neutral, limit dwell, control water temperature, and dry quickly with air movement to stop wicking.

Fringe and selvage are common bleed paths; protect them with towels and keep them out of standing water.

Drying goal: dry within 24 to 48 hours; slow drying causes browning, mildew, delamination, and odor.

Airflow first: use fans and dehumidifiers; moving air removes moisture faster than heat and is safer for dyes and fibers.

Dry flat or on a rack with support; never hang a wet hand-knotted rug, which distorts the warp and stretches the foundation.

Cellulosic browning: cotton foundation and viscose pile brown with slow drying; dry face-up with air under the rug and avoid stacking.

Temperature rule: keep ambient air moderate; high heat sets wrinkles, shrinks wool, and accelerates dye migration.

Fringe drying: comb fringe straight, dry flat with airflow, and check for wicking dye before final inspection.

Moisture check: use a moisture meter on pile and foundation; do not deliver until readings match the dry standard for the fiber.

Post-dry inspection: look for ripples, shrinkage, pile distortion, and new stains; correct or document before delivery.

Finishing steps: groom pile with the lay, comb fringe, trim loose ends, and correct any distortion while the rug is still slightly damp.

Pile grooming: brush in the direction of pile lay; against the lay raises nap and produces a dull, uneven appearance.

Inspection checklist: color, pile height, fringe, selvage, odor, stains, and structural damage; compare against pre-inspection photos.

Raking light reveals ripples, waviness, and shadow stains that flat light hides; inspect from both ends of the rug.

Shrinkage check: measure length and width against the pre-cleaning record; note any change in the file.

Odor check: smell the rug after drying; residual odor means re-treatment or referral, not delivery.

Delivery documentation: signed receipt with before/after photos and any remaining conditions; this closes the damage-claim window.

Follow-up: schedule a check within 7 days for rugs with prior urine, flood, or dye issues.

PPE: nitrile gloves, eye protection, and respiratory protection when using solvents or powders; read the SDS for every chemical.

Ventilation: solvents and oxidizers require moving air; never mix chemicals, and store them away from heat and sunlight.

Wet-floor and slip hazards: post signs, keep walkways dry, and use non-slip mats around wash areas.

Ergonomics: lift rugs with two people or a cart; wet hand-knotted rugs are heavy, and back strain is a common injury.

Documentation: signed work order, pre-inspection photos, test results, product names and dilutions, drying records, and delivery receipt.

Chemical records: log product, dilution, pH, dwell time, and area treated for every job; this supports both quality control and claims.

Client health: ask about allergies, asthma, and pets; disclose fragrance and solvent use before cleaning.

Waste and runoff: dispose of wash water and spotting chemicals per local rules; do not dump dye-laden water into storm drains.