Carpet Repair and Reinstallation Technician flashcards
Carpet Repair and Reinstallation Technician · Build recall with a focused review session.
32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.
- Delamination
- Separation of the secondary backing from the face yarn caused by adhesive failure from age, heat, or moisture; it feels soft and bubbly underfoot and sounds dull when tapped.
- Shading versus fading
- Shading is pile reversal that changes light reflection and moves with traffic; fading is true color loss from sunlight or chemicals and stays in one place.
- Seam peaking
- A raised ridge along a seam, caused by a seam cut too wide, tape bridging, or heat-set tape applied without sealing; it is visible and can be felt with a finger.
- Calcium chloride test
- A moisture test on concrete that measures emission in pounds per 1000 square feet per 24 hours; results must fall at or below the adhesive maker's limit, commonly 3 lb.
- Sprout versus snag
- A sprout is a single tuft standing above the pile; a snag is a loop pulled up in loop-pile carpet. Both are clipped level or re-knotted, never pulled back through.
- Pile crush assessment
- Comparing tuft height in a traffic lane against an untrafficked area such as under a closet door or along a baseboard edge to judge matting severity.
- Face weight
- Ounces of face yarn per square yard of carpet; it excludes primary backing, secondary backing, and adhesive, so it is always less than total weight.
- Gauge and stitch rate
- Gauge is needle spacing in fractions of an inch; stitch rate is stitches per inch. Finer gauge and higher stitch rate both raise tuft density and crush resistance.
- Loop versus cut pile
- Loop pile keeps yarn uncut and resists crushing, common in berbers; cut pile includes plush, saxony, textured, and frieze and shows footprints and shading more readily.
- Primary backing
- The woven polypropylene or polyester fabric into which tufts are inserted; it holds the yarn and is bonded to the secondary backing by latex adhesive.
- Secondary backing
- Action backing, jute, or attached cushion laminated under the primary backing; it adds dimensional stability and is the layer the stretch is anchored to.
- Solution-dyed fiber
- Color is added to the polymer before the filament is formed, so the color runs through the fiber and resists bleach, fading, and spot-cleaning color loss.
- Fiber performance comparison
- Nylon leads on resilience and abrasion; polyester resists stains but crushes; olefin resists moisture but is heat-sensitive; wool resists soil but is sensitive to high pH.
- Attached-cushion carpet
- Carpet with cushion laminated to the back; it needs a cushion-friendly stretcher tail and is often installed by double glue rather than conventional stretch-in.
- Power stretcher pin bite
- Stretcher head pins must penetrate into the secondary backing, not just grip the face yarn, or the stretch will slip out after the tool is released.
- Knee kicker limits
- A knee kicker is for short runs and seam adjustments; runs longer than about 3 feet should be power stretched to avoid uneven tension along the run.
- Seaming iron temperature
- Set by the heat-bond tape manufacturer's specification, typically in the 300 to 400 F range; verify with a surface thermometer before the first seam.
- Tack strip orientation
- Tack strip is set with pins angled toward the wall, about 1/4 to 3/8 inch from the wall, and fastened at every stud or at the manufacturer's spacing.
- Carpet PPE
- Knee pads, cut-resistant gloves for hook-blade work, and a respirator when removing moldy or dusty carpet; solvent seam sealers also require ventilation and flame control.
- Hook blade condition
- Blades must be changed often; a dull hook blade tears backing and frays seam edges, which shows through the seam after it is bonded and rolled.
- Seam repair sequence
- Open the seam, remove old tape and residue, re-stretch both sides, insert new heat-bond tape, seal the edges, then roll while warm.
- Plug patch procedure
- Cut a plug from a matching dye lot, match pile direction, use a template cut, and bond with seam sealer plus heat-bond tape or an adhesive disc.
- Pile direction check
- Run a hand across the carpet to find the lay; a patch must match the surrounding lay or it will read as a different color under the same light.
- Burn repair steps
- Clip charred yarn, clean the cavity, insert donor yarn or a plug from a closet or return, then trim level with sharp scissors rather than a dull blade.
- Delamination repair
- Inject latex or carpet adhesive with a syringe, then apply weight or roller pressure; large areas are re-bonded with hot-melt or contact adhesive under a weighted board.
- Stair nose repair
- Release the tack strip, re-stretch the carpet over the nose, and re-tack; a loose stair nose is a trip hazard and must be fixed, not just tacked at the riser.
- Water damage categories
- Category 1 water may be dried in place with extraction and air movers; category 2 and 3 water require removing carpet and cushion when backing is contaminated.
- Stretch-in sequence
- Anchor one end on tack strip, power stretch from the opposite end, then stretch the sides; stretch length first, then width, to avoid trapping slack.
- Stretcher tail block
- A block placed between the stretcher tail and the wall or door frame to protect the surface while the head advances the stretch in small increments.
- Tension field check
- Lay a 3-foot straightedge across the pile and press; the carpet should not ripple or lift when walked on, indicating adequate stretch tension.
- Heat-bond seaming
- Trim both edges on the same row, center heat-bond tape under the seam, seal the edges, then iron in overlapping passes with the seam roller following.
- Double-glue installation
- Adhesive is spread on the floor and carpet is laid into it, with cushion attached or glued separately; used where stretch-in is impractical or for commercial glue-down.