IL Esthetician cheat sheet

The Illinois Department of Financial and Professional Regulation (IDFPR) issues, renews, and disciplines esthetician licenses and enforces the state act governing barbering, cosmetology, esthetics, hair braiding, and nail technology.

Licensure requirements: be at least 16 years old, complete 750 clock hours of approved esthetics training at a licensed school, and pass the Department-approved licensing examination.

A separate Illinois limited license (eyelash extension license, 100 training hours) is required to apply semipermanent eyelash extensions; a general esthetician license alone does not cover it.

The license or a copy must be available for inspection at the work station; performing services on a lapsed, expired, or someone else's license is unlawful.

Scope of practice: estheticians improve the appearance of skin only. Diagnosing disease, prescribing, injecting, and performing invasive or medical procedures fall outside the esthetic scope.

Client information gathered during consultation and treatment is confidential and may be shared only with written client consent or as required by law.

Advertising must be truthful: no claims to cure or treat disease, no false or inflated credentials, and no misleading pricing or guaranteed results.

Ethical duties include informed consent before service, disclosing contraindications, refusing service when a condition makes it unsafe, and referring suspicious lesions to a physician.

Communicable-disease and sanitation rules apply to every licensee and establishment; a licensee with a communicable disease must follow Department and local health department restrictions.

Correct sequence for reusable implements: clean with soap and water, rinse, dry thoroughly, then fully immerse in an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant, then store in a covered container.

Disinfectants must be diluted exactly per the manufacturer label and the implement must remain submerged for the full label contact time (commonly 10 minutes; check the label).

Sanitation reduces pathogens by cleaning; disinfection destroys most pathogens on nonporous surfaces; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores and is rarely performed in esthetics.

70% isopropyl alcohol and UV towel cabinets are not EPA hospital-grade disinfectants and are not acceptable for bloodborne-pathogen decontamination.

Porous or absorbent items cannot be disinfected and must be discarded after one use: wooden spatulas, cotton, sponges, wax strips, lash strips, pumice, and paper towels.

Blood or body-fluid spill: don gloves and eye protection, absorb with disposable towels, clean with detergent, disinfect with an EPA tuberculocidal product or 1:10 bleach solution (about 0.5% sodium hypochlorite), then double-bag waste.

Wash hands with soap and water for at least 20 seconds before and after every client and after removing gloves; hand sanitizer is not a substitute when hands are visibly soiled.

Safety Data Sheets (SDS) for every chemical in the salon must be on site and accessible; all secondary containers must be labeled with contents and hazard.

Do not double-dip wax or product, do not eat or drink in the service area, and store flammable products away from heat sources and open flame.

Levels of organization: cell → tissue → organ → system → organism.

Four primary tissue types: epithelial, connective, muscle, and nervous.

Facial and cranial bones include frontal, parietal, temporal, occipital, zygomatic (cheekbone), maxillae, mandible, nasal, and ethmoid.

Muscles of facial expression include frontalis, orbicularis oculi, orbicularis oris, zygomaticus, buccinator, mentalis, and corrugator.

Muscles of mastication are the masseter and temporalis; the masseter is palpated at the angle of the mandible.

Trigeminal nerve (cranial nerve V) is the chief sensory nerve of the face, with ophthalmic, maxillary, and mandibular branches; facial nerve (VII) is the chief motor nerve.

Blood supply: common carotid artery divides into internal and external carotid; the external maxillary (facial) and superficial temporal arteries supply the face.

Lymph nodes of the head and neck include submental, submandibular, cervical, and preauricular; massage strokes move fluid toward these nodes.

Tissue systems relevant to esthetics: integumentary, skeletal, muscular, nervous, circulatory, lymphatic, endocrine, respiratory, digestive, excretory, and reproductive.

Epidermis layers, deep to superficial: stratum basale, stratum spinosum, stratum granulosum, stratum lucidum (palms and soles only), stratum corneum.

Keratinization: keratinocytes divide in the basale, migrate upward, flatten, and are shed from the corneum; average turnover is about 28 days.

Melanocytes in the stratum basale produce melanin; melanocyte numbers are similar across skin colors, but melanin production and distribution differ.

Dermis has two parts: papillary (thin, upper, capillaries and nerve endings) and reticular (thick, lower, dense collagen and elastin); it houses follicles, glands, and nerves.

Subcutaneous layer (hypodermis) is adipose and connective tissue providing insulation, shock absorption, and energy storage.

Barrier function depends on the corneum plus intercellular lipids, natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and the acid mantle.

Acid mantle pH is approximately 4.5 to 5.5; it limits microbial growth and helps maintain barrier enzymes.

Six principal skin functions: protection, sensation, heat regulation, excretion, secretion, and absorption (the skin also synthesizes vitamin D).

Sebaceous glands secrete sebum and are densest in the T-zone; sudoriferous glands are eccrine (all over) and apocrine (axillae, genital area).

Primary lesions: macule, papule, pustule, vesicle, bulla, wheal, nodule, tumor, cyst.

Secondary lesions: scale, crust, scar, keloid, excoriation, fissure, ulcer, and atrophy.

Contagious conditions that must be referred and not treated: herpes simplex, impetigo, tinea (ringworm), bacterial or viral conjunctivitis, verruca (warts), molluscum contagiosum, scabies, and lice.

Local contraindications: open or weeping lesions, sunburn, recent chemical peel, waxing, or dermabrasion, active inflamed or cystic acne, bruising, and undiagnosed rashes.

Systemic conditions requiring modification or physician clearance: pregnancy, isotretinoin use, anticoagulant therapy, active chemotherapy or radiation, uncontrolled diabetes, and immune disorders.

Skin cancer warning signs follow ABCDE: Asymmetry, Border irregularity, Color variation, Diameter greater than 6 mm, Evolving. Any suspicious lesion is referred, never treated.

Fitzpatrick scale I–VI predicts ultraviolet response; types IV–VI carry a higher risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation after aggressive treatment.

Rosacea: avoid heat, steam, friction, strong acids, and vigorous massage; use gentle, calming, barrier-supportive products.

Acne grading is mild, moderate, or severe; inflamed papules, pustules, nodules, and cysts are never extracted or massaged.

Consultation sequence: intake form → medical history and contraindication screening → skin analysis → treatment plan → informed consent → service → home-care recommendations.

Skin types are normal, dry, oily, combination, and sensitive; dehydration, acne, and pigmentation are conditions, not types.

Analysis tools: magnifying lamp (5x to 10x), Wood's lamp, skin scanner, and palpation to assess oiliness, texture, tone, elasticity, and hydration.

Wood's lamp readings: yellow fluorescence = oil; violet = dehydration; brown = pigmentation; blue-white = normal or thickened corneum.

Fitzpatrick typing is determined by interview questions about burning and tanning history and ethnic background.

Record objective findings, products used, Extraction results, and client response on the client card, and update it at every visit.

Screen for allergies, medications (retinoids, blood thinners, photosensitizing drugs), pregnancy, recent waxing or peels, and sun exposure.

Document any lesion by location, size, color, and borders; refer anything new, changing, bleeding, or asymmetric to a physician.

pH scale runs 0–14; skin surface is about 4.5–5.5, so alkaline cleansers strip the barrier and acids lower surface pH.

Functional ingredient classes: humectants, emollients, occlusives, surfactants, exfoliants, antioxidants, and preservatives.

Alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric) are water-soluble surface exfoliants; glycolic has the smallest molecule and penetrates fastest.

Beta hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is oil-soluble, penetrates pores, and is limited to 2% in over-the-counter acne products.

Retinoids (vitamin A derivatives) accelerate cell turnover and cause photosensitivity; they must be discontinued before waxing or peels per manufacturer guidance.

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is a light- and air-sensitive antioxidant often stabilized with vitamin E and ferulic acid.

Emulsions combine oil and water with an emulsifier; oil-in-water creams are lighter, water-in-oil creams are heavier and more protective.

Ingredient lists are ordered by descending concentration, so the first five ingredients generally make up most of the formula.

Sunscreens are physical (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) or chemical (avobenzone, octinoxate, oxybenzone); broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher is standard.

Standard facial sequence: cleanse, analyze, exfoliate, steam and extractions, massage, mask, tone, moisturize, and apply sunscreen.

Manual massage movements: effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (percussion), friction, vibration, and chucking; open and close with effleurage.

Massage is contraindicated over inflamed acne, broken or irritated skin, recent chemical peel or waxing, sunburn, and acute sinus infection.

Steam is applied for roughly 3 to 10 minutes and kept about 15 to 18 inches from the face; it is avoided with rosacea, asthma, or claustrophobia.

Extractions are limited to open and closed comedones after softening; never extract inflamed papules, pustules, nodules, or cysts.

Mask selection: clay for oily and congested skin, gel for sensitive or oily skin, cream for dry and mature skin, enzyme masks for gentle exfoliation.

Client setup: hair protected with a headband or wrap, proper draping, indirect lighting, and a quiet, warm room.

Products are dispensed with a spatula or pump, never with fingers from a jar, and lids are replaced immediately to limit contamination.

A standard facial runs about 60 minutes; pressure and temperature are checked with the client throughout the service.

Hair growth cycle: anagen (active growth, 2–6 years on the scalp), catagen (transition, about 2 weeks), telogen (resting, about 3 months); waxing is most effective during anagen.

Soft wax is applied thin in the direction of hair growth and removed against growth with cloth strips; hard (stripless) wax is applied thicker and removed without strips.

Patch test 24 to 48 hours before any first waxing, tinting, or lash service, and document the result on the client record.

Absolute contraindications: isotretinoin within the past 6 to 12 months, recent retinoid use, recent peel or laser, sunburn, varicose veins in the area, and moles or raised nevi.

Physician clearance is required for diabetes, pregnancy with varicosities, autoimmune disorders, and a history of keloids.

Do not wax over the eyelashes, inside the nostrils or ears, over nipple tissue, or on irritated, recently tanned, or compromised skin.

Aftercare: soothe the area, avoid heat, sun, exercise, and tight clothing for 24 hours, and begin gentle exfoliation after about 48 hours to reduce ingrown hairs.

Brow mapping uses three reference points: inner brow at the outer edge of the nostril, arch at the outer edge of the iris, tail at the outer corner of the eye.

Eyelash extension application in Illinois requires the separate limited eyelash extension license in addition to esthetics licensure.

Galvanic current: desincrustation uses the negative pole (alkaline reaction that softens sebum), iontophoresis uses the positive pole (acidic, drives water-soluble actives into skin).

High frequency uses alternating current with a violet electrode (antibacterial, acne) or neon/orange electrode (stimulating, dry or scaly skin); the client holds the grounding electrode.

Microcurrent delivers low-level microampere current for muscle re-education and ATP production; contraindicated with pacemakers and pregnancy.

LED therapy: blue light around 415 nm targets acne bacteria; red light around 630–700 nm supports collagen and circulation; eye protection is required.

Ultrasound uses 1 MHz for deeper tissue and 3 MHz for superficial tissue, requires a conducting gel, and runs roughly 3 to 10 minutes.

Microdermabrasion uses crystal (aluminum oxide) or diamond-tip abrasion; avoid on active acne, rosacea, telangiectasia, and skin recently treated with retinoids.

Chemical peels range from superficial (glycolic 20–30%, salicylic 20–30%, lactic) to medium (TCA 15–35%); acids are neutralized or removed per the manufacturer's protocol.

Electrical and light device contraindications: pacemaker, pregnancy, epilepsy, metal implants in the treatment area, and heart conditions.

Lasers and intense pulsed light are medical devices that fall outside standard esthetic scope and require physician supervision or delegation.

Business structures: sole proprietorship, partnership, limited liability company, and corporation; an LLC or corporation limits personal liability.

Profit = revenue − (fixed costs + variable costs); service prices must cover product cost, treatment time, rent, insurance, and taxes.

Keystone (double-the-wholesale-cost) markup is a common retail pricing benchmark used to set salon retail prices.

Keep client records, signed consent forms, income and expense logs, and receipts; these support tax filing and liability defense.

Worker classification (W-2 employee vs 1099 independent contractor) depends on control over schedule, tools, and pricing, not on the label used.

Professional liability (malpractice) insurance covers injury claims from services; general liability covers premises and slip-and-fall exposures.

Retention basics: rebook before the client leaves, offer a referral incentive, and maintain consistent, consent-based social media content.

Professional image: clean uniform, hair secured, short nails, minimal jewelry, no strong fragrance, punctuality, and clear communication.

Career growth: continuing education in new modalities, a portfolio and resume, and networking with dermatologists, salons, and product educators.