Textile Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics
This domain covers fibre classification, fibre properties, yarn structure and numbering, and fabric construction. The exam tests whether you can link a fibre or fabric property to a suitable end use and whether you can interpret yarn counts correctly.
Core concepts
- Fibres are natural (cotton, linen, silk, wool) or manmade. Manmade fibres include regenerated fibres such as viscose and synthetic fibres such as polyester, nylon and acrylic.
- Staple fibres are short and must be spun into yarn. Filament fibres are continuous.
- Key properties: absorbency, strength, elasticity, abrasion resistance, heat sensitivity and dyeability.
- Blends combine properties; for example, cotton/polyester gives absorbency with strength and easy care.
- Yarn count: Ne (cotton count) is the number of 840-yard hanks per pound. Higher Ne means a finer yarn. Denier is grams per 9,000 metres; higher denier means a coarser yarn.
- Fabrics are woven (warp and weft; plain, twill, satin), knitted (interlocking loops; stretchy) or nonwoven (bonded fibres).
- Grain, selvedge and bias affect how fabric behaves during cutting and sewing.
Worked example
A towel should be absorbent and withstand repeated washing, so cotton is a sound choice. A swimsuit needs stretch and quick drying, so a cotton/elastane or polyester/elastane knit is more suitable. For yarn, if yarn A is 40 Ne and yarn B is 20 Ne, A is finer because the Ne system counts more hanks per pound. The reasoning links fibre property and yarn fineness to the product’s use, not to price alone.
Traps
- Saying higher Ne is coarser; it is finer.
- Confusing denier with Ne; they use different weights and lengths.
- Assuming natural fibres are always better for every product.
- Ignoring blend percentages when predicting care and performance.