Pattern Making, Cutting and Garment Construction
This domain covers body measurement, pattern drafting, fabric layout, cutting and the sequence of garment construction. The exam tests accuracy in measurements, understanding of seam allowance and grainline, and the ability to choose a construction method that suits the fabric and product.
Core concepts
- Take measurements over well-fitting clothing, keeping the tape level and snug but not tight. Record bust/chest, waist, hip, shoulder, sleeve length and garment length.
- Use a size chart and add ease: wearing ease allows movement; design ease creates the intended silhouette.
- A basic block is drafted, trued and then adapted. Mark grainline, notches, darts, fold lines and seam allowance clearly.
- Seam allowance is added to the pattern, not to the body measurement. Typical allowances are 1 cm for seams and 2.5–4 cm for hems, depending on the product.
- Lay the marker to minimise waste. Place pattern pieces on the correct grain; cut with sharp shears, keeping the lower blade flat on the table.
- Construction sequence: staystitch, darts, seams, facings, openings, collar/sleeves, hem, then press at each stage.
- Seam types include plain, French, overlock and flat-fell.
Worked example
For a 45 cm × 45 cm cushion cover with 1 cm seam allowance on all sides, cut two 47 cm × 47 cm squares. If a lapped opening is used, the back panel is cut into two overlapping pieces; the overlap is added to the pattern, not taken from the finished size. The reasoning is that the finished cushion must remain 45 cm after stitching, so allowance is added outside the finished dimensions.
Traps
- Cutting the pattern to body measurements without ease or seam allowance.
- Ignoring grainline, causing twisting and poor drape.
- Not transferring notches, so pieces are joined incorrectly.
- Trimming seams before checking fit.